Stuck engine

Hi folks. I have a 1927 mcormick deering 10/20. (My grandpa bought it new) my dad rebuilt the engine about 10 years ago and has been faith ful since in cranking it over,or starting it once in a while to prevent it from "sticking" . Pa died a year or so ago and I have the tractor. I pulled it over faithfully till last spring when myy health took a dive. I went to turn the crank the other day and the engines stuck. No,not in gear☺️ any tips to breakking it loose?
 
Many suggestions coming soon. I have the same tractor, BTW. Needs extensive work to get it going again. Is yours on steel?
 
Hi folks. I have a 1927 mcormick deering 10/20. (My grandpa bought it new) my dad rebuilt the engine about 10 years ago and has been faith ful since in cranking it over,or starting it once in a while to prevent it from "sticking" . Pa died a year or so ago and I have the tractor. I pulled it over faithfully till last spring when myy health took a dive. I went to turn the crank the other day and the engines stuck. No,not in gear☺️ any tips to breakking it loose?

If it has only been sitting for only "a year or so" since it was cranked, assuming that it has not sat outside with the exhaust open to weather and doesn't have mouse nests or other debris in a cylinder, it may not be too badly stuck.

If you think that is the case, you could remove the spark plugs and put some penetrating oil in the cylinders, let it sit for a week or so and try the crank again. If you have access to a borescope and can look in the cylinders to see what their condition is, it would be great too. I would try gentler measures before tearing it apart. You might get lucky.
 
Pulling the plugs is first. It is likely not seized radically unless it has been in the weather, and exposed. A hand crank is not very powerful as a method of turning the engine. I would put 2 tablespoons of ATF in each hole. Then wait for 1/2 day. putting the crank in a position where the handle is to the right (not the normal 6 o'clock) and hang a weight on it of at least 50#. I would put it in road gear, and bump the rear tires forward by hand to break it loose. (ignition off!!) Jim
 
My 1957 FE35 Ferguson had sat in a shed for well over 15 years before I bought it .
The engine was stuck as well .I had the best results by levering carefully against the starter ring teeth through the starter motor mount hole .
As suggested , plugs out , lubricate bores , look for rodent and wasp nests and lever gently in both directions. It doesnt hurt to check the valve gear either .
 
Less than a year? Eh, it's not really stuck. If kept from the elements it's just a little sticky somewhere. I know some here will not agree, but if you have something that can tow it, I'd put it in high gear and give it a slight tug.
 
In gear pull the tractor after lubing cylinders and leaving plugs out Could lube with trans fluid Marvel Mystery Oil
 
I agree with lubrication in cylinders,,,,and going slow and gentle. Let lubrication free it up,towing or forcing while a ring is still seized can break the ring. Don't hurry it, be generous with lubrication,after it is free turn it over a few times or tow with spark plugs out to blow excess oil out before trying to start engine.

When WD-40, PB Blaster, spray lubricants and carb cleaner stop spraying with some remaining in can I poke a hole and dump contents into a gallon jug. To the same jug I add diesel and atf. I transfer into a quart bottle with squirt spout and use it not only for stuck engine but rusty bolts and such.
 
suggest that you get borrow or rent bore scope cameras to peek inside that engine cylinders to see what has happened to stick it.
block clutch open and crank it after inspection shows no rust, and lube it with mystery oil ,try hand crank ing with helper.
I recommend jacking and jack stand the rear wheel off ground . with help if needed rock rear wheel to make sure there’s no damage if there’s ice in the differential. If there is get it out of there.
I would recommend using the jack up rear wheel as lever to try to turn engine over.
I don’t recommend dragging it to break it loose. If you do have a plan in place how your going to straighten the connecting rods . You got a machine shop that does rods . Get a quote for the extra cost of rods bearings, rings, cy sleeves, valves,bent push rods
 
Hi folks. I have a 1927 mcormick deering 10/20. (My grandpa bought it new) my dad rebuilt the engine about 10 years ago and has been faith ful since in cranking it over,or starting it once in a while to prevent it from "sticking" . Pa died a year or so ago and I have the tractor. I pulled it over faithfully till last spring when myy health took a dive. I went to turn the crank the other day and the engines stuck. No,not in gear☺️ any tips to breakking it loose?
i presume its sitting outside. if it has the ihc manifold and carb the exhaust points down outward. thats of great help to you , very small chance to get rain into the cylinders. if it has the upward robin manifold , or like the W-30 and u get rain in then its remove head time. sitting for a year with rain is for sure pull head time. remove plugs and add light oil to each cylinder. marvel mystery oil or snake oil works good for that. a long soaking is the key thing , it might take days so dont get excited to quick to get it moving. dont worry about bending rods on them tractors , they are built heavy tough. plus babbit brgs.
 
If it has only been sitting for only "a year or so" since it was cranked, assuming that it has not sat outside with the exhaust open to weather and doesn't have mouse nests or other debris in a cylinder, it may not be too badly stuck.

If you think that is the case, you could remove the spark plugs and put some penetrating oil in the cylinders, let it sit for a week or so and try the crank again. If you have access to a borescope and can look in the cylinders to see what their condition is, it would be great too. I would try gentler measures before tearing it apart. You might get lucky.
 
Thank you so much for the tips gents. It has been kept inside since rebuilt. I will find a borescoope, soak cylinders for a couple days, and try "gently". Illl let you know how it goes
 
If you are in a freezing region I wouldn't mess with it at all until it warms up. The ice could be anywhere.... too much force and you twist something off.

If the tractor is above freezing, and, I am accurately interpreting your post that it was less than 365 days in this condition, this is one time when pouring stuff in the cylinders might actually work.
 
Thank you so much for the tips gents. It has been kept inside since rebuilt. I will find a borescoope, soak cylinders for a couple days, and try "gently". Illl let you know how it goes
dont be scared to pull or push on the crank , the worst that can happen is you will break the pin in the crank end. but go "gently" on the wife, lol. the secret is to let it soak to get the oil past the rings and free it up. even if it sits a week that ok.
 
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