Stuck in reverse

[GDaly]

Hi, I'm new to the forum but have been alurker for some time. I have a 1952 Ferguson TO20 that runs great. It sat for almost nine years unused. Had to clean the gas tank and carb and rplaced all ignition components with parst from here. Now the engine runs like a top. Only problem is my father in law drained all the fluids out at some time while it was sitting. Now it is stuck in reverse and the clutch will not engage. Everything in the trans was still covered in a film of oil and looks OK. No rust. Not sure if the throw out bearing is stuck or what. Also what is the function of the reverse shaft lock? Could it affect the movement of the reverse shaft? Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. This great old tractor ran and worked perfect when I parked it. Don't know why my father in law drained the fluids. Thank you for a great site

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Welcome to the fray!
Clutch not engage. . . Doesn't move? No pressure?
Stuck in reverse?
Try jacking up one wheel and moving it back and forth.
Operate the linkage and with the strain off the drive train from sitting on the ground, it might shift out.
Chances are the shift rails are in need of lube and/or stuck check balls in the linkage.
If you can get it running/moving there is a slight chance it might heal itself without having to open the linkage up.
Slight.
Was it parked with the clutch blocked open?

 

[GDaly]

Thank you for replying. It's greatly appreciated. I have the rear-end completely off the ground. The rear-end and trans gears move freely when the wheels are turned by hand.The clutch seems to be disengaged. The reverse shifting shaft is stuck forward. It moves slightly but hits a hard stop after @3/16. The engine runs but the trans is not engaged. I raised the rear-end in case the clutch decided to engage. The clutch peddle seems to be down farther than I remember, maybe only 3 off the foot board. I seem to remember that being higher. It moves the clutch rods but only slightly and seams stressed after maybe 1/4-3/8. Not anything like any clutch I've ever used and not like I remember this clutch acting. Before I stored it and my father in law drained all the fluids it worked perfectly. I'm trying to see what y'all with more experience think might be locked up or perhaps out of sorts. I have learned a lot here and this is by far the best place to get help. It's a great place and very appreciated. Thank you again.

 

[GDaly]

As for the clutch being locked open, when I went to retrieve it apparently someone tied the clutch peddle down for whatever reason. All I can figure is perhaps my brother in law or father in law needed to move it single handedly.

 

[GDaly]

The check balls you mention, could they be 41 or 66 or both? I'll try to gain access to them all and insure they are free.

 

[GDaly]

The check balls you mention,

I just went out and removed the trans cover. The detents(41 in the scematic) were completely stuck with rust. I sprayed some Tool and die penitrating oil to soak in. I'll leave it overnight and see what tomorrow brings.

This post was edited by GDaly on 07/07/2021 at 02:13 pm.

 

[Tom H.]

After you get everything moving again and ready to add fluid, most of us recommend 5w20 diesel oil instead of the GL1 oil. GL1 will attract water and you will soon have milky oil that can freeze at the bottom of the housing in the winter. Ive been using 10w30, the same as the engine on all of my tractors without any issues.

Tom

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Newer clutch disc has no copper or zinc in it and more steel has been added to make up the difference. Newer clutch disc are highly prone to rusting in place stuck to the flywheel/pressure plate. in order to prevent this, the clutch pedal is held in the released position.
If you release the clutch pedal and it does not move, chances are the trans input shaft that the release bearing rides on might have a covering in grease not allowing the bearing to travel on it.
If the clutch pedal moves freely and the engine dies when releasing the clutch pedal without the tractor moving, then it is quite possibly stuck between gear ranges. That is to say that one gear has not released internally and your trying to engage another gear.
Once you get the shift levers freed up, see what you get.

 

[GDaly]

Thank you for that information. It is appreciated.

 

[GDaly]

Thank you again for your reply. I will be working on getting the reverse shaft to move today and remove the S safety switch to see if I can access the clutch. I bought a video scope for another project a while back so hopefully it will work for this. The clutch peddle is up in the engaged position but the trans is not moving. The throughout bearing being stuck is my thought. Maybe useing the scope will help me see what the problem is. Your help is appreciated.

 

[GDaly]

Well I pulled the three pressure springs out. The reverse shaft moved effortlessly. The spring on the reverse shaft was rusted solid and came out in pieces. Luckily having a history in tool and die work I have plenty of die springs. And cut one to size. I have filled the three detent bosses with degreaser penitrating oil. I will attempt to remove the detents and clean them and the bosses. Now just to get the clutch to move. It poured here in middle Tennessee yesterday and today on and off so I didn't get to spend much time on the tractor. The canopy I have over it is not quite large enough, (10x10), to keep me dry. See how it goes tomorrow if it's not pouring.

 

[GDaly]

Well, weather and health have kept me from working on the Tractor these past few weeks. I wasn't able to get the detents out. I tried with a magnet. They are soaking still and I'll try again before I finish. The trans moves freely and works as it is supposed to. the clutch will still not engage the flywheel. I believe the throughout bearing is stuck to the shaft in the disengaged position. I briefly looked in the housing with my scope but I could not get a clear picture. I will need to spend more time doing that before I crack her open. Again, thanks for all the help and advice.

 

[J.Wondergem]

Can you pull the clutch pedal up by hand? Must be rusted down.

 

[GDaly]

(quoted from post at 19:52:38 07/31/21)
Can you pull the clutch pedal up by hand? Must be rusted down.

The pedal is up but the clutch just doesn't engage the flywheel. I need to use my scope again with better light to try and see what might be going on. The pedal was tied down for a period of time so I think the throughout bearing may be rusted to the shaft not allowing the clutch pressure plate to move forward and engage.

 

[J.Wondergem]

I think the clutch was tied down so the clutch discs wouldn't stick to the flywheel. Your problem right on the throw out bearing stuck.