Stuck pin

[govsux]

Anybody have a suggestion for get the pin out of the wheel?? This crawler got used way past the time it needed new bushings. I'm hoping to get it apart and see if maybe I can machine a bigger hole and make a larger sleeve or something. It took my son and I 4 hours just to get this far.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I didnt see any retaining bolts in your previous
parts breakdown. Those brackets might be pressed
on... if so you better measure the dimensions
before you take it apart, or else it may not fit the
roller frame after you press it back together.
Especially if you are making custom parts.

 

[govsux]

To be more specific.. I'm trying to get the shaft #6 out of the support #8. Rusted and stuck big time. Snapped a bold off in the support. Oh boy gotta love it.

 

[govsux]

A bolt comes out that holds the support shaft...that shaft get's pushed out then that allows the wheel shaft to get pushed out. It's one of the 1/2 moon things here one pin hold the other inn place. I got that support pin out but the wheel shaft pin is stuck... bad. Yes i imagine a machine shop will be involved in the fix.

This post was edited by govsux on 05/29/2023 at 05:34 pm.

 

[govsux]

(quoted from post at 01:29:51 05/30/23) I didnt see any retaining bolts in your previous
parts breakdown. Those brackets might be pressed
on... if so you better measure the dimensions
before you take it apart, or else it may not fit the
roller frame after you press it back together.
Especially if you are making custom parts.

 

[govsux]

I need a very large socket then a very large press. I don't have a large press so not sure how to get that pin out.

 

[govsux]

I should have simply added this to my other post... sorry.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

After looking at your picture, it looks to me like the
guide pin holds the axle and the outer brackets
together, by passing through a groove near the end
of the axle. In short, probably not a press fit, or
maybe a light one. Will need a lot of force to get it
apart, but with everything clean and shiny it will be
easy to put back together.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Hard to tell from the parts diagram, but if that pin is
the same diameter for it whole length, you could
press it all the way through, out both brackets at the
same time... or if you have to make a new shaft,
you could reach in there with the torch and just cut
it in half. But when youre trying to reproduce parts
its always better to have an intact specimen if
possible.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I think you are looking at a fair sized rose bud tip on a fair sized torch to heat things up well then if you could push it apart would be the easiest way to salvage old parts for replacement or renewal. Otherwise cutting one side off and getting idler off is about the next choice. Always fun working on old yellow paint that has been used and set or even used. Might as well weld up the tire of the idler while it is out rather than replace if you can. I remember dad saying something about a 388 rod was to hard and would pound off as it was run when he and grandpa did something similar back in the 60's or early 70's. That was one of the places I learned to weld was building up rails easy to apply without to much risk of a problem burning through or damaging parts once welder was set. Roller can also be built up that way if the bearings are good. SO much of the under carriage is now just replace and toss old parts.

 

[560Dennis]

I have a suggestion about this to consider ,

I have had something similar on pitch adjustment on the new idea mower . Could not get it hot with a torch . To much area.
So we built an enclosure with fire brick and cover it with enough charcoal (2 40 pounds? Bags ) took about 20 to half hour , got it red hot
and hit with sledgehammer . Moved easy. Have heat welding gloves and safety equipment and your set up to drive out the pin all set up ,
you need to act quickly ,effectively ,and safely. Make sure you dont bend wheel , needs proper support in critical areas .
After that we made some mores with the grand kids with heat from charcoal .

 

[govsux]

(quoted from post at 11:52:19 05/30/23) I have a suggestion about this to consider ,

I have had something similar on pitch adjustment on the new idea mower . Could not get it hot with a torch . To much area.
So we built an enclosure with fire brick and cover it with enough charcoal (2 40 pounds? Bags ) took about 20 to half hour , got it red hot
and hit with sledgehammer . Moved easy. Have heat welding gloves and safety equipment and your set up to drive out the pin all set up ,
you need to act quickly ,effectively ,and safely. Make sure you dont bend wheel , needs proper support in critical areas .
After that we made some mores with the grand kids with heat from charcoal .
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto155579.jpg>

Thanks everybody for your replies. I have yet to figure out how to add a reply to all instead of one by one... anyway. That's a heck of an idea 506FDennis!! I'll have to get all set up ahead of time with some big tongs and leather gloves... but that's just crazy enough to work! Will try that this weekend and post back.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Be careful pounding on stuff when its red. You can
rivet that shaft in the bracket, and it will be 10 times
harder to get out.

 

[560Dennis]

Be careful ,as mentioned by Fritz do not swage the pin ! Riveting it in the bore of the hub.

Get it hot and try rotating it back forth in bore to break the rust loose . May be a long pipe .sorry im not sure a ,one of those I cant see all
the details .
Might take two or three trys , youre not in a race .
Make sure you have adequate help.
Youll get it out ! Be safe !

 

[the tractor vet]

One way it may come off is with a bearing splitter and a ten ton puller and warming the thin side .

 

[caterpillar guy]

Thinking about this some more.If you could polish the long side of the shaft down some with emery clloth then oil it well with oil then heat the casting you could put the shaft on a sleeve and push it on farther where it is polished and oil. Then by polishing the side it sets on The rust would be gone and oil would make it slide easier. would also get you out of risking sweging the shaft in the casting. If you were close I have a 20ton press and my brother if it is set up has a bigger one yet. My other brother had a nice OTC press good for something like 50 or 150 ton.I would have bought it if I had known he wanted to sell it.

 

[govsux]

(quoted from post at 14:34:22 05/30/23) Be careful pounding on stuff when its red. You can
rivet that shaft in the bracket, and it will be 10 times
harder to get out.

I had never heard of that but ironically I was just driving out the 5/8" bolt that held that support rod in place. I finally broke it free. Drove it a good 1"out.... Then it got HARDER to whack out. In fact it got so hard I could no longer move it!! Fortunately it was enough out of the way the support pin could be removed. But I was driving it out with a smaller rod than the bolt I was driving out and maybe I 'riveted' it in now that you guys mentioned that. Funny I never ran into that before but I bet that's what happened. First thing I'll try after the 'fire pit the sucker' is my air hammer with a larger flat... not a small or pointed tip. If that doesn't work the dozer has several hand me down custom tools under the seat one is a large steel pin with a shoulder welded on. Not %100 sure but I bet somebody made that to help drive out the tread link pin without smashing ones hand in the process. If my air hammer doesn't do the trick I'll try that next. If neither works back in the fire it will go. Have you guys ever queltched [ bet I spelled that wrong ] something really hot to break it free?? The shock of the cool water sometimes breaks things apart. I've not had success with that but i'v heard others have. My biggest concern with this project is I fear is it's wore way past what was once the bushing and it's probably wore into the casting of the wheel. If that's the case about ll I can hope to do is take it to a shop and drill it bigger..... IF there's enough material left to do that. Crossing my fingers on that.

 

[govsux]

(quoted from post at 20:30:20 05/30/23) Thinking about this some more.If you could polish the long side of the shaft down some with emery clloth then oil it well with oil then heat the casting you could put the shaft on a sleeve and push it on farther where it is polished and oil. Then by polishing the side it sets on The rust would be gone and oil would make it slide easier. would also get you out of risking sweging the shaft in the casting. If you were close I have a 20ton press and my brother if it is set up has a bigger one yet. My other brother had a nice OTC press good for something like 50 or 150 ton.I would have bought it if I had known he wanted to sell it.

I got the support shaft out... the long bar you can see quite a bit of. It's basically the axle now I can't get out. And I can't even see anything but the end because both sides are stuck on support. I appreciate that offer! I'm in southern Michigan. I big press would definitely do the trick. I have a small one but nothing up to this task.

 

[govsux]

Here's where I'm at with it now. Not a very good picture. The arrow pointing towards the axle / pin I need to get out.

 

[govsux]

Here's my dozer and 1964 Ford 4000. I posted about a couple problems I had with the 4000. Fixed now... except for the hydraulic ram that leaks down but not a big deal. I got that tractor with the front loader and that 3pt back how for $4500. That thing has paid for itself 100 times over. put in two septic systems of my own use... and even designed and built my own well drilling rig. My well went bad. County wanted me to tie into city water they just ran at the street... I didn't like that idea. I now have a great well. 15 gpm is more than enough for me. pretty satisfying I did it all myself. It wasn't easy I ran into quite a few problems along the way.

This post was edited by govsux on 05/30/2023 at 05:00 pm.