Stuck valve in #4

[Loren Warman]

I have pulled the valve cover and see a stuck valve in my 1952 8n.
My problem is I don't know what it is stuck to
or in (is it stuck in a valve guide or is the
tappet stuck in the block
I sure would appreciate all the info.I can get
I just returned from the car parts store with a can of PB Blaster and I am ready to do battle with this thing.
Thanks to all Loren

 

[Dell (WA)]

Loren.......most "stuck valves" are stuck by "varnish" generated by not using detergent oil and infrequent oil changes. There are many spraycan un-stick'em. PB Blaster is as good as enny, just spray away. Don't worry about PB draining into the oilpan, (it will) but iff'n yer sphincterly challenged, change yer 6-qts of oil with good 20-50wt detergent oil. Simple, eh? ......Dell

 

[Roger in Iowa]

Since the valve is stuck, you should be able to rotate the crank to where the tappet lowers in the block and it should be free to turn. If not it needs to be sprayed and loosened also.

 

[souNdguy]

toothbrush and spray can.. spray and scrub and then try to workthe stem up and down..

I usually make up a cocktail of diesel and atf fluid to do this.. pb will work just fine though.

once you get it moving a bit, I'd dump a half quart of atf fluid in the gas, and a half quart of atf fluid in the oil and run her. if you do an oil change, which, I would likely do if you have to work on her a while to get the valve moving and think there is alot of solvent in the pan, then when you do the change, substitute a quart of old generic atf fluid for 1 qt oil.. and run her.. as long as the valve ain't bent. that should get her free and keep her free.

soundguy

 

[old]

The way I have freed them up at times is fill that cylinder with ATF. Yes if you do that you will get some out the exhaust or carb but that tells you it is getting to the problem area. Then if you have the hood off you can pull the plug and once you make sure the other valve is wide open you can tap the stuck valve down and work it open and closed a few times. If that does not free it up you may need to pull it and the guide out and clean things up well. I have at times had them to the point you ended up having to replace guide and valve

 

[elmersooner]

neighbor down the road swore by a little steam cleaner he bought called a shark steam washer--blows out a little jet of steam to loosen up crud and debris. I might have to try it one time, he builds race car heads and says it works like a charm. I have unstuck a valve on a 2n with brake cleaner and PB blaster and a little patience.

 

[Den N Ms]

Loren Remove the #4 spark plug,rotate engine over till the valve that is not stuck in#4 is open all the way.Then spray the stuck valve through the spark plug hole with the straw on the PB Blaster under the valve face so it runs down the stem.Spray the valve tappet and stem,push the tappet down till it rests on the cam it is probably not stuck,spray everything again and let it soak awhile 15 min. should do.bend the tip of a old cheap screwdriver to have a slight angle.Put screwdriver through the plug hole and on top of the stuck valve and tap lightly with a hammer.The valve should close.Spray again rotate the engine over and repeat the process till the valve opens and closes freely. Put it back together,add about a pint of ATF to each gallon of gas you have in the tank.Start it up and let it warm up at an idle.

 

[ZANE]

Turn the crank till that cylindde is on Top Dead Center. That will be with both tappets all the way down and the piston on top dead center.

I have loosened stuck N valves by fabricating a tool made from a lengthh of 1/4" X 1" flat bar stock and then grinding a gap on one end in the middle of the bar stock that is wide enough to allow the valve stem to go into it. Grind the ends of the fork to a 45% angle and push the tool into the valve spring close to the bottom at the keeper and then holding the other end strike the tool close to the valve with a small hammer to lower the valve. Lots of petetrating oil on the valve and into the spark plug hole. Turn the engine over to push it up again and repeat till it is free.

Works best if you have an air impact chisel tool to hammer the valve down. I use my impact tool to hamer the valve back up too instead of turning the engine to let the cam raise the valve. The vibration does the trick.

Zane

 

[Loren Warman]

I have tried all of the suggestions that were sent by other readers and I still have a stuck valve.
I now have pulled the valve cover to #4 and the head and see the #4 exhaust valve in the open position.
At this time would it be best to try to gently hammer the valve down or try to twist it someway
or other? Also how can I tell if the cam is in
the correct position in order to force the valve
down.
I am sorry for all of the questions but I am between a rock and a hard spot (and skinned fingers) Thanks to all Loren

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 02:55:36 10/16/11) I have tried all of the suggestions that were sent by other readers and I still have a stuck valve.
I now have pulled the valve cover to #4 and the head and see the #4 exhaust valve in the open position.
At this time would it be best to try to gently hammer the valve down or try to twist it someway
or other? Also how can I tell if the cam is in
the correct position in order to force the valve
down.
I am sorry for all of the questions but I am between a rock and a hard spot (and skinned fingers) Thanks to all Loren

SINCE you have the head off and the valve cover off I would remove the valve and guide and fix it right. If it is stuck that tight I don't think I would just hammer on it.
piston at top dead center with intake valve closed. at that point the exhaust valve should also be closed.