Studs and torque

[William S]

So how many times can studs be torqued before they are no longer viable? I asking in relation to the the ones used in the N's for the valve cover.

William

 

[used red MN]

lol! Those tin covers will never stress the studs to cause any appreciable tensile strength loss to them. Move on, there are bigger fish to fry.

 

[William S]

lol! Those tin covers will never stress the studs to cause any appreciable tensile strength loss to them. Move on, there are bigger fish to fry.

I'm confused, tin cover? The tractors sports a flat head 4 with a cast iron cover and after 80+ years of use I have started replacing the studs when they start to fail while torque is being applied. Which left me wondering ..replace only when torque is not of the right feel or is there a place and time? Seemed like a question to ask. Thanks for your reply, I now know the first option best, when it doesn't feel right.

W

 

[OldBlue61]

Valve cover vs head - different animals. The valve cover (on the side of the block) will never stress the bolts. The head on the other hand, well, that's different. I get your question there.

 

[used red MN]

I'm confused, tin cover? The tractors sports a flat head 4 with a cast iron cover and after 80+ years of use I have started replacing the studs when they start to fail while torque is being applied. Which left me wondering ..replace only when torque is not of the right feel or is there a place and time? Seemed like a question to ask. Thanks for your reply, I now know the first option best, when it doesn't feel right.

W

Sorry and my apologies, I didn’t know you were struggling with proper engine terminology. In general on an inline overhead valve engine referred to as a “I”(eye) head where the valves are in the cylinder head the first part over the engine is the “valve cover” which is usually a stamped tin part. This covers the rocker arms valve springs etc. A Ford “N” series uses a “flat head” or “L” head design where the valves are in the engine block. The first part on top of those engines is the “cylinder head” the cast iron cover you are talking about, part 7 in the picture. So as “old blue” pointed out we were talking about two different things. The actual valve cover I thought you were referring to is on the side of the engine (part 21 photo kind of hard to see but the line from the number goes to the front edge of the front valve cover) and is a stamped steel part and I thought you were talking about the studs shown as part 25. Also the head on the Ford Ns use “bolts” not studs. A “stud” has threads on both ends and a nut threads down on it to tighten down the part it is holding. Per your question if several head “bolts”
failed to torque properly during assembly of the engine it would probably be a good time to consider replacing all of them.
I am at work and have already spent to much time replying to this, but felt I should set it straight. Do you have parts books for your tractor? I can give you links to see the parts diagrams for your tractor. If you’re are not the best at computers it would be best to get paper book copies of the parts books for your tractor. I would also suggest in the future to have the parts references available and find the proper description/names of parts when posting here and asking questions. It helps you to get accurate and more useful information in return. Have a good day!

 

[William S]

Valve cover vs head - different animals. The valve cover (on the side of the block) will never stress the bolts. The head on the other hand, well, that's different. I get your question there.

Thank You all for your replies. I completely forgot about the side covers. Also Thanks for replacement response, I'll be looking for new set of studs and nuts.

William

 

[Non-farmer]

Also the head on the Ford Ns use “bolts” not studs. A “stud” has threads on both ends and a nut threads down on it to tighten down the part it is holding. Per your question if several head “bolts”
failed to torque properly during assembly of the engine it would probably be a good time to consider replacing all of them.

8Ns came with head bolts. 9Ns and 2Ns came with studs.

 

[Non-farmer]

PS: when I rebuilt my engine, I replaced all the studs. Apparently, many thought this was a needless and high-risk action, but I managed not to break any of them in removal, and IIRC the new ones cost me $2.17 apiece, including new nuts.

 

[pwaggy92]

I just replaced mine and it was pretty easy with PB Blaster. Was leaking antifreeze out of the stud holes in the head cover so needed new gasket and red gasket maker on the bottom of studs and screw them in. Needed a new head cover, got great compression and no leaks!

 

[used red MN]

8Ns came with head bolts. 9Ns and 2Ns came with studs.

Okay, thanks for the info. Wouldn’t you say that is a step backwards?

 

[Non-farmer]

Okay, thanks for the info. Wouldn’t you say that is a step backwards?

That one's above my pay grade.

I just replaced mine and it was pretty easy with PB Blaster. Was leaking antifreeze out of the stud holes in the head cover so needed new gasket and red gasket maker on the bottom of studs and screw them in. Needed a new head cover, got great compression and no leaks!

Some of mine just came out by turning the nuts, but some were stubborn and all I got was the nut coming off. I ended up having to buy a stud remover. It finished the job nicely.

 

[wore out]

Okay, thanks for the info. Wouldn’t you say that is a step backwards?

IIRC, the parts catalog "subbed" the studs to bolts decades ago.

 

[William S]

I just replaced mine and it was pretty easy with PB Blaster. Was leaking antifreeze out of the stud holes in the head cover so needed new gasket and red gasket maker on the bottom of studs and screw them in. Needed a new head cover, got great compression and no leaks!

That is a good heads up, Gasket maker on the threads going into the block. Similar to hi-temp thread sealer.

 

[William S]

I just replaced mine and it was pretty easy with PB Blaster. Was leaking antifreeze out of the stud holes in the head cover so needed new gasket and red gasket maker on the bottom of studs and screw them in. Needed a new head cover, got great compression and no leaks!

That is a good heads up, Gasket maker on the threads going into the block. Similar to hi-temp thread sealer.

PS: when I rebuilt my engine, I replaced all the studs. Apparently, many thought this was a needless and high-risk action, but I managed not to break any of them in removal, and IIRC the new ones cost me $2.17 apiece, including new nuts.

The best price I could find for Grade 8 alloy steel with a black oxide finish studs was $4.00 each, no nuts.