Studs or bolts

[Skip Burney]

Do you guys think head studs or bolts are better

 

[Royse]

Assuming an N flathead tractor, I prefer studs.
For all the reasons studs were used to begin with.
Ford did switch to bolts though, so what do I know. :wink:

 

[Dell (WA)]

Skip........while the 9N, 2N, and early 8N came from the factory with studs, 7/16-20 bolts are approved replacement. Infact, iff'n you ordered replacement studs, you'd still gitt bolts. Here's the deal, while there are 20-studs to hold the head flat, the head still warps and needs to be milled to be flat again. Iff'n you had studs, you'd haffta remove the gastank and radiator doglegs to remove the head. With bolts, you just remove the head and gasket, no muckin'round with gastank fulla gas. Installation is a reversal of the removal...except...torque the headbolts in 3-steps to 65-ft/lbs. After 15-30 mins of running, re-torque the headbolts to 65-ft/lbs. Clicker torque wrenches are best. Start in the center of the head and spiral outword. Patterns are available fer the neubie mechanic wanna bees to copy. ........HTH, the amazed Dell

 

[Skip Burney]

That's what I was thinking. I changed from bolts to studs in my both my Corvette engines as well as my 302 Ford. I can get the studs from ARP. I guess I was just thinking out loud.

 

[Skip Burney]

You mean torque wrenches like these? LOL

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

CAUTION: The cylinder head bolt/stud holes are 7/16-14 NOT 7/16-20 -big difference in thread pitch -coarse always goes into cast iron, fine always accepts the fastener/nut size. Why do you ask? Just switching with no valid reason is unrealistic. If rebuilding the engine, then a change is okay. Just be sure you get the block boiled out good at a local reputable place and ALL the bolt holes get chased with a good, correct tap. Don't know? Get a copy of the 39-53 MPC or original copy of your model year for the info on part numbers and descriptions. For example, p/n 18-6066; 7/16"-14 x 7/16"-20 x 2.78" Stud, used from 39 thru 50. Ironic that the September 1952 MPC only lists the bolt for the 39-52 cylinder head, p/n 8N-6065-A; 7/16"-14 x1-3/8". That means the bolt was approved to replace the stud.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​

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[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 23:40:21 03/17/17) That's what I was thinking. I changed from bolts to studs in my both my Corvette engines as well as my 302 Ford. I can get the studs from ARP. I guess I was just thinking out loud.

Your scant 25 HP 4 cylinder flathead is not even remotely close to a 250-300 HP V8 and the advantages of pricey ARP studs over high strength cap screws is just about nil.

TOH

 

[HFJ]

i got new studs for my '47 from my local auto parts store. they were reasonably priced.

 

[Skip Burney]

Not at what I can get them for. Dan you say free!

 

[HFJ]

free?


that's my favorite price

 

[S10Vette]

Just make sure that you use a good sealant on the threads for studs and bolts for the ones that go into water passages. I used NAPA aviation sealant and still had leaks around 4 studs so had to drain coolant, pull them out and use a Permatex antifreeze compatible automotive RTV, no problem after that. I have seen a warning here not to use sealant on the fasteners going into blind holes though as you could "hydraulic lock" the hole and crack the block, so careful to use only in wet holes.

 

[Skip Burney]

MINE TOO I have a good friend who owns several auto parts stores and we trade favors. I sign off his aircraft work and I get really good prices.