Styled B Govenor

[JDOhio]

We had the govenor rebuilt, idels great but when we go wide open, it acts like the govenor doesnt work and revs too much, its either idle or wide open.

 

[H. AHLER]

MAKE SURE THAT THE SLEEVE IS FREE ON THE GOVERNOR SHAFT

 

[toot]

and make sure the trottle rod is a half a hole short of going in carb linkage with speed lever advanced fully.

 

[F-I-T]

Did it ever work correctly? I always check to make sure that there is no stray cotter pin hanging up at the carburetor. That can stop things up. In you case, you have all throttle action opening the carburetor butterfly and no governor force pulling it closed.

If all movement is free, I would disconnect the rod at the carburetor, and start the engine, using your left hand to operate the carburetor throttle butterfly. Hold the rod from the governor with your right hand. If you leave the throttle lever in the idle position, everytime you speed the engine up, the rod in your right hand will attempt to move to regulate the engine speed. This can tell you if the mechanism in the governor is at least working. If all is good, turn engine off, then place throttle in wide open position, and hold carburetor butterfly wide open as well. Now the rod coming from the governor to the carburetor should be one-half hole short from connecting. You will stretch against the leaf spring on the governor arm to connect it. This provides preload to remove the play from all of the moving parts. If the rod is not set at the half hole distance, adjust that and it should work.

 

[Lee B]

This same thing happens quite often on governor rebuilds, when it happened to my 44 A I was stuck with only one solution that worked.

After I checked for sticking linkage, cotter keys dangling into the way, worn out throttle shafts or washers binding on the shaft, and other common sense items, I was able to get some use out of my tractor by altering the standard half hole short adjustment to one of a straight drop in hook up. That gave me back a top end over speed protection while still allowing some slow idle functioning.

But it still would rather just die when I engaged the clutch at slow idle for example backing up to an implement to hitch up and go to work. This was NOT what I paid over $800 in parts for alone!! So I extended the governor arm out past the distributor and now it has 2 inches of working throw where it only had one inch before. It really snaps open at the slightest load and works like they all should have from the start. Hole adjustment doesn't matter anymore either, so I went back to a half hole short as per the manual.