Success!!!! until........

[Dave Bjornson]

Newbee Dave Bjornson here 40 miles south of Pittsburgh.
I finished rebuilding the transfer case for my 5' squealer, and took the rig out for the test spin. Cuts great, plenty of power until....
The dreaded 15 minute engine stall.
I've heard three theorys,
1) Partially clogged fuel line.
2) Heated up ballast resistor.
3) Corroded ignition switch.

The previous owner did the 12v conversion, I'm guessing that is a little harder on the ignition parts. I have new coil, cap and points.
What would YOUR troubleshooting strategy be?
I have a new resistor and ignition switch...
I'm off to try and restart... It's been 15 minutes.
Thanks guys!

 

[JMOR]

A JD, AC, Farmall, Oliver, 9N, 2N, 8N, a new BOOBER or what?

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 17:49:52 08/21/09) A JD, AC, Farmall, Oliver, 9N, 2N, 8N, a new BOOBER or what?

Dave Bjornson

Replies: 17
Views: 420
Forum: Ford 9N, 2N, 8N Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 10:31 pm Subject: Re: New 8n owner
Sorry for no details!
1948 8n front mount dist.
12 volt conv. of unknown quality, does have a fuse installed.
Spark plug wires are cracked and brittle,
and the dist cap was badly pitted with a bur ...

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?p=2568150&highlight=#2568150

 

[Dave Bjornson]

OOPs........
Check this out.
It stalled on a hill, so I popped the gas cap to check for vapor lock and...... No gas.
What a moron. :roll:

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 18:32:39 08/21/09) OOPs........
Check this out.
It stalled on a hill, so I popped the gas cap to check for vapor lock and...... No gas.
What a moron. :roll:

That'll Do It!!!!

 

[JMOR]

I would remove the drain plug from the bottom of the carb & verify that the flow will fill a pint container within 2 to 4 minutes. Look to see if point gap is at least reasonable.
If it does, I would jumper the Ign sw as shown.

If still in trouble, I would move the top red alligator clip from the right top terminal to the left top terminal, knowing full well that I had best not leave it that way more than about a minute or two (running) (less stalled) at the risk of a smoked coil (just a short test after it stalls & won't start).

 

[Bob Harvey]

For gosh sakes JMOR, even I know that pic ain"t the switch!! Doesn"t matter that you are correct(well, yah it does) but we need less confusion onna counta....train derailed. b

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 20:15:19 08/21/09) For gosh sakes JMOR, even I know that pic ain"t the switch!! Doesn"t matter that you are correct(well, yah it does) but we need less confusion onna counta....train derailed. b

ell, there is more than one way to skin a cat & more than one place to jumper an ignition switch. This is a place that is easy to get to and not only eliminates the switch itself but the switch wiring. If a guy doesn't comprehend this then maybe he will learn a little bit about his tractor while thinking about it and come away comprehending. It isn't expecting much. For myself, I would jump as far as possible and eliminate as much as possible in the very first jump . That is jumper directly from the battery post to the top of the coil (gone from the picture at that point would be: wire from starter sw/solenoid, terminal block, wires to/from ign switch, ign switch, resistor, and wire to coil. If it still doesn't run, I would have eliminated 6 variables in one instant step (jump) and then know where to focus my attention (distr & coil) and if it did run, then I know which 6 items to focus on. Divide and conquer. If that confused him, he probably isn't ever going to fix his tractor anyway. When I'm done, I hope that not only a feller has a running tractor, but has learned enough that next time he will feel confident enough to tackle it & perhaps even fix it himself & bask in his pride.