Super 55 Tractor Split for Leaking Seals

[John P.]

My Super 55 got to the point where it is leaking gear lube so bad it has to be split. I've got the Oliver manual, the special socket for the PTO, and every single seal and gasket in the rear end ready to go. Since I've never had to get into it this deep, I was wondering how big a job I'm looking at and how long do you think I will need to tie up the garage. Reason I ask is winter's coming and Pam doesn't like to park out in the cold.

 

[rrlund]

Quicker and easier than you'd think. Drive some blocks between the axle and frame to keep it from tipping,then unbolt it where the blue tape is in the picture. The dash,steering and everything comes right with the front half so the only thing you have to unhook are the wires to the lights.

 

[rrlund]

And the axle braces,sorry.

 

[John P.]

Thanks, you make it sound so easy!

 

[John P.]

Does the rear section get blocked and the front moved forward, or should the front get blocked and the rear moved?

 

[J. Schwiebert]

Make yourself some alignment pins as well and however you support the front half make sure you have some adjustment on the height as you will find that out when You slide it together. Also I hope you noticed that some of the seals are different if you have a 518 or a 519 code rear end. Also adjust the PTO clutch before you slide it together. My e-mail is open if you have more questions. J.

 

[John P.]

Thanks, it's a 518.

 

[super 55]

I have mine split right now also. You mentioned you have the special socket, are you talking about removing the Clutch Spider retaining nut? The flat nut with the four notches? Here's how I split mine. I put two hydraulic jacks under the frame just behind the rear edge of the front frame, I also backed those up with two 4X4 blocks cut to fit between the floor and the front frame. I then placed a rolling hydraulic jack under the front end of the rear frame. The front frame stays in one place, and the rear frame rolls back, so make sure you have enough clearance behind the tractor to pull the two frames apart. I suggest you take the clutch spider off, as weell as Retainer for the PTO clutch drive sleeve bearing and replace that seal, and the two O-rings between the retainer and the PTO drive gear. Take off the retainer on the rear of the tractor and pull the PTO drive shaft out and replace the O-ring inside the PTO hub. You may not have to do that, but later on if it starts leaking taking the shaft out and lining it back up may be hard. It's easy with the tractor split.

 

[dabot]

Remember there are two allen screws holding the clutch pack to the shaft. It will save you a lot of time. Don't ask how I know!

 

[John P.]

 

[John P.]

Thanks, hat will help. I just rolled it into the garage.

 

[SPMN]

Check this Ebay item out for the spanner nut wrench # 252331424749 ---I have
nothing to do with the listing, but have recommened it to several customers who
were happy with it

 

[J. Schwiebert]

Block the front and roll the rear> Look at the main clutch while you are there. Is this an early or late Super 55. Send me an e-mail? J>

 

[super 55]

Says this item is out of stock. I made one out of pipe, but you can also use a drift punch.

 

[John P.]

I bought it back when you recommended it to me!

 

[John P.]

Well, it took me 4 or 5 hours to get it split, but it's there. My mistake was not realizing the inspection cover underneath spanned the center frame (oops). It's pretty ugly inside too, nothing but a huge gear oil soaked mouse nest. I'll tackle that cleanup on Friday after I pick up a new mask and gloves. I can sure understand the importance of making up guide pins now! I wound up locking the rear in gear and then blocking it up and using the big engine hoist to lift the whole front of the tractor up and forward.

Thanks all!!!

 

[John P.]

Ever get the email?

 

[super 55]

Why did you move the front end?

 

[John P.]

(quoted from post at 14:48:36 10/07/18) Why did you move the front end?

Since the Crane will lift 4000 pounds, I found it easy to just lift up the whole front end and move it out of the way.

 

[John P.]

(quoted from post at 11:31:35 10/06/18)
I have mine split right now also. You mentioned you have the special socket, are you talking about removing the Clutch Spider retaining nut? The flat nut with the four notches? Here's how I split mine. I put two hydraulic jacks under the frame just behind the rear edge of the front frame, I also backed those up with two 4X4 blocks cut to fit between the floor and the front frame. I then placed a rolling hydraulic jack under the front end of the rear frame. The front frame stays in one place, and the rear frame rolls back, so make sure you have enough clearance behind the tractor to pull the two frames apart. I suggest you take the clutch spider off, as weell as Retainer for the PTO clutch drive sleeve bearing and replace that seal, and the two O-rings between the retainer and the PTO drive gear. Take off the retainer on the rear of the tractor and pull the PTO drive shaft out and replace the O-ring inside the PTO hub. You may not have to do that, but later on if it starts leaking taking the shaft out and lining it back up may be hard. It's easy with the tractor split.

Okay, now I'm getting closer to start looking for where all these hidden seals and O-Rings are. I do want to change all of them now so I never have to do it again!

 

[super 55]

Okay, there three O-rings. I am guessing you don't have a parts book, so I will attempt to explain exactly where they are located. When you take out the clutch discs, and you remove the nut that holds the spider on, (using that tool that tool you bought on ebay),
there is a bearing cover plate with an oil seal installed. On the backside of that plate is a 1/8" X 3 5/8" ID O-ring. Behind that plate you will see the PTO drive gear. It has a splined section, that is hollow for the PTO drive shaft to go through. On that splined shaft you will find a 1/8" X 1 7/8" ID O-ring. There is a third O-ring located on the PTO shaft, at the PTO hub. You have to pull the PTO drive shaft out from the rear of the tractor. The PTO drive shaft is held in the hub by a roll pin you will have to drive out. Pull the drive shaft out of the hub and replace the 1/8" X 1 7/16" ID O-ring. If you are replacing all the seals involved there are four seals, and a felt washer. If we work from the front end to the rear it goes like this, need to know the serial number because for tractors 6 000-4600 the number is 1E-1588, for 46-001 onward the seal is 1E-545-A, the next seal is 1E-1590, those two seals are located in the clutch hub. The next seal is located in the bearing retainer plate just behind the clutch spider, it's the plate with the large O-ring. The part number is 1E-1569. The last seal is at the rear of the tractor that is installed in the bearing retainer plate, part number 1E-1582. There is also a felt washer located in the retainer plate, part number 1E-1081.

 

[John P.]

Wow, great writeup!
I'm using the online AGCO parts book from the AGCO site.
This way I can print out the diagrams and then mark them up.
The serial number on this tractor is 18888.

 

[super 55]

So your tractor would be the later part number on the first seal.
100 545A

 

[John P.]

(quoted from post at 15:22:28 10/09/18)
So your tractor would be the later part number on the first seal.
100 545A

Nope, earlier. I take the 1E-1588 for tractors 6000-46000.

 

[super 55]

Math was never my strong point, it's an early one of course.

 

[John P.]

(quoted from post at 21:10:40 10/09/18) Math was never my strong point, it's an early one of course.

I'm going to print out your guide above, so I have it to refer to in the garage this weekend.

 

[super 55]

Take your time and work safely. It's a fairly easy job. My parts are waiting for me at the border and will probably be doing it almost the same time.

 

[John P.]

(quoted from post at 14:19:39 10/10/18)
Take your time and work safely. It's a fairly easy job. My parts are waiting for me at the border and will probably be doing it almost the same time.

I also have to pull the clutch to figure out why it does not want to disengage too.