Super A clutch

On my super A when you mash the clutch it doesnt release good enough to keep gears from grinding ive had it out because it was stuck when i bought it but can i adjust the fingers out a little through the bottom of the bell housing. The rod from clutch pedal is adjusted all the way out so i thought i could gain a little by adjusting the fingers as long as i have some free travel
Thanks
 
Does it still grind when putting it in gear with the engine idled down? Mine will grind if the RPM's are up and I shove the clutch in and immediately put it in gear.
 
Does it grind severely and want to move while in gear with the clutch pressed down? IF NOT, here is how you find out if the clutch is releasing properly. Start tractor and warm up a few minutes. With tractor stopped but still IDLING push the clutch down and put it in gear. Continue holding down the clutch and place it in neutral, count 1000-1, 1000-2, now try to shift it into gear. If it goes in gear with minimal gear grinding such as a tooth or two passing each other the clutch is releasing fine, again clutch is held down during entire test. To explain how this checked if the clutch is releasing, you stopped the gears by placing it in a gear, then during the two second wait in neutral if the clutch is dragging or not releasing properly it would start the clutch plate, shafts and gears spinning again. So if there is a release problem it will grind when you try to put it back in gear after the two second wait. If it passes this check you can pull it apart a hundred times and not make it go in gear with less grinding. You just need to wait longer after pushing the clutch down. The issue is in those old Farmalls the shafts spin easily and it just takes a while to stop the spinning momentum. They have no synchronizers like modern manual transmissions.
 
Does it grind severely and want to move while in gear with the clutch pressed down? IF NOT, here is how you find out if the clutch is releasing properly. Start tractor and warm up a few minutes. With tractor stopped but still IDLING push the clutch down and put it in gear. Continue holding down the clutch and place it in neutral, count 1000-1, 1000-2, now try to shift it into gear. If it goes in gear with minimal gear grinding such as a tooth or two passing each other the clutch is releasing fine, again clutch is held down during entire test. To explain how this checked if the clutch is releasing, you stopped the gears by placing it in a gear, then during the two second wait in neutral if the clutch is dragging or not releasing properly it would start the clutch plate, shafts and gears spinning again. So if there is a release problem it will grind when you try to put it back in gear after the two second wait. If it passes this check you can pull it apart a hundred times and not make it go in gear with less grinding. You just need to wait longer after pushing the clutch down. The issue is in those old Farmalls the shafts spin easily and it just takes a while to stop the spinning momentum. They have no synchronizers like modern manual transmissions.
No it wont pass that test. When you mash the clutch it still has a little bit of hold to it and is hard to get out of gear and then you just have to grind it in gear but if you can shift it fast enough from like forward to reverse you can make it most the time i crank in gear with the clutch down
 
No it wont pass that test. When you mash the clutch it still has a little bit of hold to it and is hard to get out of gear and then you just have to grind it in gear but if you can shift it fast enough from like forward to reverse you can make it most the time i crank in gear with the clutch down
The clutch pedal should have about an inch of free play at the foot plate to pedal then start to feel pressure as the pedal goes forward and down. If there is no adjustment, Something is not right in the system. did you just free it up and put it together, or was something replaced? Jim
 
On my super A when you mash the clutch it doesnt release good enough to keep gears from grinding ive had it out because it was stuck when i bought it but can i adjust the fingers out a little through the bottom of the bell housing. The rod from clutch pedal is adjusted all the way out so i thought i could gain a little by adjusting the fingers as long as i have some free travel
Thanks
Are the release fingers all adjusted to the same "height"? (Hard to verify when one mucks with them "in the wild"!)
 
The clutch pedal should have about an inch of free play at the foot plate to pedal then start to feel pressure as the pedal goes forward and down. If there is no adjustment, Something is not right in the system. did you just free it up and put it together, or was something replaced? Jim
It has maybe a half inch at the most and it is adjusted out all it will go. I just freed it up was all and it all lookef good. Thinking about adjusting the fingers up some while it is hooked up so i can check it as i go
 
Starting to sound like the pilot bushing is dragging. I read your last post as indicating you had the clutch apart. If so, did you check out the pilot bushing and maybe give it a little oil?

Does it have a graphite throwout bearing? Adjusting the fingers too far out may chew up the bearing.
 
It is the regular bearing type throw out bearing. I havent tried rhe pilot bushing may try putting oil on it. Thank you
 
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