Super A steering ?

RandyB(MI)

Well-known Member
Helping the neighbor with steering looseness on his Super A. Been through the archives. Checked everything and seems all the slop results from the verticle shaft sliding up and down. In a static centered position, the big nut on bottom actually sits right on the axle tube. Not good. When you turn wheel one way it sucks the shaft all the way up (3/4 turn of wheel) before it moves the steering arm so basically it has 1 full turn of free play. Archives says to remove axle and just take the bottom of box apart and leave the top /steering wheel shaft alone and address the verticle shaft/key way etc out on bench. Tie rods etc are all good and steering wheel shaft end play is minimal. Anything to add or watch for? Have read Hugh Mc Kay's posts on it. It's not a leaker but something's letting that shaft down 2" or so. Thanks in advance. RB
 
Here's what I found in my 130.
The Super A should have the same parts.
Get that nut tightened up and see if it makes any difference.
normal_steering7.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 19:11:29 03/15/16) Helping the neighbor with steering looseness on his Super A. Been through the archives. Checked everything and seems all the slop results from the verticle shaft sliding up and down. In a static centered position, the big nut on bottom actually sits right on the axle tube. Not good. When you turn wheel one way it sucks the shaft all the way up (3/4 turn of wheel) before it moves the steering arm so basically it has 1 full turn of free play. Archives says to remove axle and just take the bottom of box apart and leave the top /steering wheel shaft alone and address the verticle shaft/key way etc out on bench. Tie rods etc are all good and steering wheel shaft end play is minimal. Anything to add or watch for? Have read Hugh Mc Kay's posts on it. It's not a leaker but something's letting that shaft down 2" or so. Thanks in advance. RB

If the shaft is dropping down that far, the bearing may be broken, or both keys are broken.
 
I meant to say that the shaft sits down on the casting right under it. There's 2" of bare shaft showing that when you turn the wheel it goes back up in the box and only after that will it turn the link.
 
If you are seeing the shaft, for sure the bearing retainer clip must have come off and the shaft is sliding freely in the bearing. Both keys might be broken as well. If you look at my picture and the parts manual, you will see how the parts are oriented.
 
if the snap ring fails, or the top bearing fails, it will try to fall out. And would if it could get past the casting. Make sure all woodruf Keys are tight in their pockets and ways. Loose at those will show up in dramatic play. If loose, and a new key is loose, have them milled/broached to a larger standard size (possibly metric). Make sure the snap ring groove is square sholdered and that the ring has square edges. New if in doubt. Jim
 
Having rebuilt several you need to remove the axle that sure will make getting rest apart I like to remove the whole front to make the job easier better than laying n floor and looking up.
 
(quoted from post at 08:49:00 03/16/16) Having rebuilt several you need to remove the axle that sure will make getting rest apart I like to remove the whole front to make the job easier better than laying n floor and looking up.

My 130 steering seems to have failed again. i.e. the key may have broken again on account I had the gear key slot welded and regrooved but something went wrong as after the dew few runs the steering is back at 1/4 to 1/2 turn before the wheels begin to move. may have to go in again,.
 
Thanks, J, I'm sure that is what our problem is because I believe the shaft would fall right out if it wasn't for hitting the casting and having the steering link attached to it. Guess we have a dirty little job ahead.
 
(quoted from post at 17:30:59 03/16/16) Thanks, J, I'm sure that is what our problem is because I believe the shaft would fall right out if it wasn't for hitting the casting and having the steering link attached to it. Guess we have a dirty little job ahead.
Randy,
It is a dirty little job. You may have to remove the rad, maybe not. I was looking at mine today and figuring how I am going to get the axle U bolt out, might be able to wiggle a socket in there.
If the the steering arm and the tie rod ends come off easy you should be OK. There are brass bushings in the axle pivot that may be worn out as well. My steering arm took 5 days to get it off, heat, hammers, pullers and persuasion. If you have all the replacement gaskets, bearings and seals, you could do the job in a afternoon. Good luck.
 
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