super a

[farmall4856]

started off by changing the head gasket and did a basic carb rebuild put new plugs and wires on. went to see if it would run today and I got her to fire but not run at idle. well adjusted some things and tried it again engine would run but not like it should. tried it one more time played with the throttle got her to go but it kind of sounds like it not running on all pistons and then water started coming out of the top radiator hose and it seemed like it was HOT! so we just stopped. we are now in a jam on what to do. There is water coming out around head gasket to. what is the problem?? she was running good before we did any thing to it.

 

[djhammerd]

Did you compare the hole layout of the new head gasket against the old head gasket?

 

[old]

Did you re-torque the head gasket after you had ran it some and warmed the engine up?? If not your likely to have blown the head gasket which would have that coolant blown out.

 

[farmall4856]

No we didn't we are beginners at all of stuff

 

[old]

Pull the plugs out and spin it over. Be sure yo mark the plug wires so as not to mess up the firing order. Spin it over and if you have coolant coming out of any cylinders then you got a blown head gasket

 

[farmall4856]

OK I will try that tomorrow hopefully

 

[old]

Don't take to long to try spinning it over or it can lock up on you in just a few days

 

[ken house]

was there something wrong, that caused you to replace head gasket.

a friend of mine, says to paint both sides of head gasket with aluminum paint and then install it.

you must have a torque wrench and torque all bolts after installation of gasket.

it is a good idea to run bolts or nuts back and forth in the hole or on the bolt to clean threads, before you install

 

[old]

When I built my BA I used a used head gasket and 6 coats of aluminum paint on the head and the block. That was over 3 years ago now and it has yet to leak

 

[farmall4856]

Yes there was water getting in the oil and it was over heating and we did torque the nuts back to 65 lbs like the book said

 

[old]

New numbers to torque the head is 85ft/lbs instead of the old 65ft/lbs then once warmed up re-torque them

 

[ken house]

did someone check the head for warp and cracks

 

[farmall4856]

No we just checked it over but we didn't see any cracks should we have though

 

[Janicholson]

ANother place the engine leaks coolant into oil is from bad hardened Orings on the cylinder Sleeves. They are Wet sleeves and have a big Oring on each at the bottom where the lower end of the sleeve nests into the block. Make sure the head is checked for Flat with a straight edge from end to end at at every cylinder to cylinder point on the casting. At any point longwayse there should be no more than .003 to.004" warp. Use a feeler gauge under the straight edge. Cross ways .002 is max. the head/block must be clean (3M scowering disks with a small drill are great) Jim

 

[farmall4856]

ok thanks so retorque them to 85. let it run and warm up. then do it again at 85. but why did it blow it had the torque wrong??

 

[old]

Blew most likely due to not re-torquing it when you first got it running unless then head is warped or the block not level

 

[farmall4856]

ok so if head is warped do you have to find a different one right because the old one is no good
and we torqued the head back down to 65 before we had started it but never re torqued them afterwards

 

[ken house]

warp, cracks, etc., are impossible to find with the eye. when you get the head off, take it to a machine shop. have them check for warp and cracks.

 

[Janicholson]

The head can be resurfaced easily at a machine shop. Magnafluxing (or other crack detection method should also be done. Before taking it off do what old suggests and pull the plugs then (ignition off) crank the engine and see if coolant sprays out of one cylinder. If so, look at the gasket when the head is removed to see if you can detect where and why it leaked. Keep us informed, get a repair manual, and engine repair documents from old books (reading is way better than doing things more than once) Jim

 

[GRAPE-DRANK]

+1 Jan has given the best advice.

I have a Super A and did a complete.

I had a good block and a good head. They we'd magnafluxed and had no problems. We took a micrometer to the block and it was a tiny bit out of spec. Resurfaced the block and the head for good measure. The correct torque spec is important, but I doubt 65 lbs caused your problem.

Like I said, follow Jan's advice.

 

[gene bender]

If there is water getting in the oil you need to remove pan and then watch for coolant leaking at the bottom of the sleeves its easy to see if thats where the leak is. Your old headgasket should tell you if the leak is there. When replacing head gasket makesure it is installed with the side marked "up" is up. Then 80lbs is what the torgue should be. I would use several coats of hi-temp alum paint on the gasket both sides ive used that for many yrs.

 

[farmall4856]

Ok so cover the entire gasket front and back with this paint what does that help???

 

[ken house]

my opinion, the paint levels a tiny bit of rough surface on block and head. also, it may stick to them a bit and help prevent small leaks. i do not know if metal gaskets are available for this engine. probably best to not use them, use thicker gaskets instead.

 

[farmall4856]

Just checked to see if coolant was coming out. Nothing was just cold air! What now.

 

[Janicholson]

It means that there is (assuming there was coolant above the level of the head when you did the test) probably no compression leak dramatic enough to allow coolant into the cylinder over night. If the coolant was lower than the head to block surface, it is not a valid test. Jim

 

[blunted]

I rebuilt my a and head gasket leaked on 3 gaskets till I found out that since mine has no waterpump, the coolant holes are bigger, thus not getting the seal on it.