Super C Carryall

[BillB52]

I'd like to try and build a 2-point rear carryall for my Super C to match the original as close as possible. My thought was to ask the local vocational school to do the fabrication of the steel parts. Does anyone know the dimensions of the steel support frame. The frame appears to be bent at a 90 degree downward angle shortly after leaving the 2-point drawbar, drops down approx. 12" inches, then is bent at another 90 degrees (horizontal) pointing away from the back of the tractor. Any ideas on the length of the horizontal runs, and the length between the 90 degree bends? Maybe there is a drawing to reference? Thanks

 

[fastfarmall]

Say, when u get it figured out, i want to build one for the 450 to, i got a old corn cultivator with a 3x5 tube i think will be the back bone for mine. I am serious let me know on this forum.

 

[Andy Martin]

I've go ta friend who knows a guy with a carryall. If no one else responds I'll ask him to go take pictures and measure it.

 

[BillB52]

(quoted from post at 19:56:35 07/23/15) Say, when u get it figured out, i want to build one for the 450 to, i got a old corn cultivator with a 3x5 tube i think will be the back bone for mine. I am serious let me know on this forum.

Fastfarmall;It might take some time but I will let you know. I'm hoping to be able to make the left and right points/sub frames cut as one piece. But I suppose they could be fabricated from several pieces welded together. Please be patient. Bill

 

[BillB52]

(reply to post at 14:49:12 07/24/15)

Andy: The only pictures I have are of promotional farmall literature, and downloaded pictures that don't really show enough detail to gauge dimensions. I have seen specifications for the wooden planks, but that's it. An actual close-up picture would be great. Thanks, Bill

 

[fastfarmall]

Not a problem Bill

 

[mountain4don]

"I'd like to try and build a 2-point rear carryall for my Super C to match the original as close as possible."

I have one of these old original Super C two point hitch carryalls out in the barn that I use every year for hauling firewood when I am in a hurry to get it to the house in the wintertime. Especially when it is snowing. Drawing up fabrication drawings would take some time though.

 

[BillB52]

I have one of these old original Super C two point hitch carryalls out in the barn that I use every year for hauling firewood when I am in a hurry to get it to the house in the wintertime. Especially when it is snowing. Drawing up fabrication drawings would take some time though.

Maybe not a drawing, but a few pictures would be great. If you could indicate the size of the lumber (2x8, or 2x10 etc.) I could estimate the dimensions of the frame. However, the most important dimension to me would be the vertical distance between the 2 horizontal bars (i.e. the top points that fit into the 2-point on the tractor, and the lower frame that sits underneath the carryall). Thanks, Bill

 

[Farmallhal]

Bill, I have one in the tractor shed along with an IHC parts catalog of Fast Hitch Implements for the Super C tractor which shows the metal pieces along with the hardware (Bolts, Nuts, etc.) for one. I would be happy to copy the page in the parts catalog showing the C-1 Platform Carrier and add the dimensions off of my original and send them to you via US Mail as I don't know how to post sketches, photos, etc. on this forum or the internet and not a computer geek to start with. My email is open and if you would like to accept this offer send me an email with your mailing address to which they can be mailed. I have found the original ones are fairly common but do command a fair price as they seem to be highly sought after. The metal pieces with the fast hitch points on one end are a single piece so they will probably have to be laser cut from some thick steel plate and the fabrication expenses might be higher then finding an original carry all. There are a couple of angle pieces attached to each main beam for attaching the wood pieces and a rod between the two supports to establish the correct spacing for the fast hitch sockets on the tractor. In addition there are a couple of pieces welded to the back end of the supports to hold upright pieces to keep items from sliding off the back. Hope this helps and send an email if you need a copy of the part catalog page and actual dimensions, Hal.
P.S. Give me a few days as we are trying to get hay made here in Missouri due to all the late spring rains and still doing May & June work here in late July and probably into August.

 

[dcarnold73]

I have one on my S/C. Can not start it right now and have it loaded with a 25 gallon 12 Volt sprayer. When I get it going, I will be happy to give you the spec's you want. BTY: I extended the prongs so I could pick up a round bale of hay. Heavy, usually requires use in reverse to keep front end on ground. Now I also have a 340U, so I no longer use the S/C for this. You are welcome contact me, if you desire.

 

[BillB52]

dcarnold73
Thank you for the offer. I drove an S/C as a kid back in the early 60's. It was a lot of fun. Way before the days of round bales. You must have had someone sitting on the hood. Better you than me.
Bill

 

[dcarnold73]

Hi Bill: This may be rather long. Would like to post a photo but the way my brain works I am lucky to get this. Hope it makes sense.

First: I was born in 1938. From 5 years on I and brothers/sisters worked like slaves on our general farm (raising cattle and feed therefor). Started with 80 acres(Grand Fathers) and worked our way up to 266 acres+. Not much for Texas but large in those days for northern Michigan. Parents kept purchasing, poor land, for back taxes. Started with horses and a old 10-20 International. When I was 7-9 years old, Dad got and old F-12 with cultivators and a sickle mower. Boy we were moving up! When I was 12-13(?) Dad got a new C with cultivators, mower, carryall-Boy we were really moving up!! Later, around age 15, here got 2 C's or S/C's, with lights. Then we could work not only from dawn to dusk but at night-and we did. Anyway, upon HS graduation, I joined the Army and kept going. 20 Years retiring as a Major. Went to OCS after 7 years. Not bad for a HS education with a few college here and there.
was in Finance Corps the Combat arms as an Armored(Tanks) Officer.

Now to the task at hand: 1-NOBODY ever rides on tractors when I am working!
2-I assume you have a implement or prongs for the S/C
2 point lift, so you know the shape of those ends.

My info may not be completely original but the metal work is:

Materials needed:
2 Each metal bars: 1&1/4" x 2" x 64".
2 Pieces of Angle Iron: 1/4" x 2" x 14".
1 Each(Maybe two) Fully threaded rod: 5/8" x 36".
1 Each Good Treated Lumber Board: 2" x 12X 48"
Associated bolts, washers & nuts. You can figure that out.

Specs:
Metal bars that slide into 2-point hitch:
-1st 90 down is 24" from pointed end that slides into hitch.
-2nd 90 straight out is 26" from top to bottom.
That give you the shape and lengths of frame. I had Welded on and additional 14" bar for hay, also great for support with pallets which I use consistently.
Angle Iron:
Center on down part of frame: Secure with 2 each 3/8"
bolts spaced 5" apart. Even with back of frame, with flange pointing outward toward tires. On this flange
drill two 3/8" holes 7&1/2" apart. You will use this to secure your board(centered)on frame.
36" Threaded Rod:
-Drill 5/8" holes on part that will slide into 2-point lift. These holes are 17" from end of tip that will slide in 2-point lift.
- There is another 5/8" hole 4" from the last 90,turning reward. This may have been for another rod on the original.

I reinforced the top and bottom of my 48" board with a couple of 12-15" pieces of small angle iron. I put mine to fairly heavy usage.
I think the original had sides on it. A box like affair.
Maybe someone else here can fill more info. At least this will let build the carrier frame. I would like to post a photo, but this is all my old brain will let me do on computers.
Good luck-DC

 

[dcarnold73]

Bill I just spent an hour preparing info for you to build the Carryall. Didn't push the right buttons and it did not go. Now I guess it is lost. I you give me your email address I will try and scan it and get it to you.

Sorry I am a old man and get easily messed up.

Good luck-DC

 

[BillB52]

DC, You might want to check again, because there is a lot of information posted. I don't think you lost anything. Thanks very much for taking the time to do this. If you'd like to e-mail something, my address is [email protected].

Thanks, Bill

 

[bass]

(quoted from post at 08:34:25 07/29/15) Hi Bill: This may be rather long. Would like to post a photo but the way my brain works I am lucky to get this. Hope it makes sense.

First: I was born in 1938. From 5 years on I and brothers/sisters worked like slaves on our general farm (raising cattle and feed therefor). Started with 80 acres(Grand Fathers) and worked our way up to 266 acres+. Not much for Texas but large in those days for northern Michigan. Parents kept purchasing, poor land, for back taxes. Started with horses and a old 10-20 International. When I was 7-9 years old, Dad got and old F-12 with cultivators and a sickle mower. Boy we were moving up! When I was 12-13(?) Dad got a new C with cultivators, mower, carryall-Boy we were really moving up!! Later, around age 15, here got 2 C's or S/C's, with lights. Then we could work not only from dawn to dusk but at night-and we did. Anyway, upon HS graduation, I joined the Army and kept going. 20 Years retiring as a Major. Went to OCS after 7 years. Not bad for a HS education with a few college here and there.
was in Finance Corps the Combat arms as an Armored(Tanks) Officer.

Now to the task at hand: 1-NOBODY ever rides on tractors when I am working!
2-I assume you have a implement or prongs for the S/C
2 point lift, so you know the shape of those ends.

My info may not be completely original but the metal work is:

Materials needed:
2 Each metal bars: 1&1/4" x 2" x 64".
2 Pieces of Angle Iron: 1/4" x 2" x 14".
1 Each(Maybe two) Fully threaded rod: 5/8" x 36".
1 Each Good Treated Lumber Board: 2" x 12X 48"
Associated bolts, washers & nuts. You can figure that out.

Specs:
Metal bars that slide into 2-point hitch:
-1st 90 down is 24" from pointed end that slides into hitch.
-2nd 90 straight out is 26" from top to bottom.
That give you the shape and lengths of frame. I had Welded on and additional 14" bar for hay, also great for support with pallets which I use consistently.
Angle Iron:
Center on down part of frame: Secure with 2 each 3/8"
bolts spaced 5" apart. Even with back of frame, with flange pointing outward toward tires. On this flange
drill two 3/8" holes 7&1/2" apart. You will use this to secure your board(centered)on frame.
36" Threaded Rod:
-Drill 5/8" holes on part that will slide into 2-point lift. These holes are 17" from end of tip that will slide in 2-point lift.
- There is another 5/8" hole 4" from the last 90,turning reward. This may have been for another rod on the original.

I reinforced the top and bottom of my 48" board with a couple of 12-15" pieces of small angle iron. I put mine to fairly heavy usage.
I think the original had sides on it. A box like affair.
Maybe someone else here can fill more info. At least this will let build the carrier frame. I would like to post a photo, but this is all my old brain will let me do on computers.
Good luck-DC

a tanker uh, m60a3 or an m1
gunner, sabo , 2 tanks, left tank first
im a retired tred head also
bass
53superC