Super H brakes

MarkinMo1

Member
I have a 54 SH with almost no brakes at all. Does anyone have any tips on changing, and where to get new bands or parts I may need? I have never done this. Thanks.
 
Poor braking on Farmall Super is generally one of 2 things:

1 - Worn out friction disks. Replacing the disks (each side contains TWO disks...) will get them working again

2 - Oil-soaked brakes from worn-out pinion shaft seals. Need to replace the seals, thoroughly clean the brake internals and install new disks.

Farmall disk brakes are not complicated - only tools required to disassemble are socket and open end wrench.
 
Like BobM said. You can get the parts you need right here on yesterdays tractors, just click on the icon (tractor parts) and go to your model tractor
 
With new discs (old ones look OK but are too thin),Pile all the parts in order into the housing. nice and centered. Measure using a straight edge across the housing to the top disc. .035 to .040 is good. more will need the housing machined to reduce this clearance. Jim
 
One thing you may want to try before spending $100+ on new parts, there's a fine thread 3/8 capscrew that pulls the expanding brake actuator to apply the brakes, it's got a pair of lock or jamb nuts to hold the adjustment that you have to loosen, should be able to get a wrench on them by pushing the rubber seal down slightly into the brake housing, then tighten the head of the capscrew, 2-3 turns should be enough to get you good brakes again.
Inside the brake drum is the two halves of the actuator held together with 3 short coil springs, and 3 I think 7/8 diameter ball bearing balls that expand the distance between the two brake actuators, the balls should be clean & Shiney, and the pockets they fit into need to be clean and no pits or low spots, a dab of Anti-Sieze compound in each pocket will keep the brakes working longer. The springs are kinda expensive, think mine were $12 each 5 years ago, you need 6 of them, the ball bearings are a Dollar or Two, new brake disc's are expensive too, 2 per each side, I went with A&I disc's, they were 1 to 2 Thousandths of an inch thicker, means more life, and half the price of new CIH disks.
A little anti-sieze on the ball bearings and the places inside the brake drum where the actuator contacts the drum helps keep the brakes working longer.
We put 250 hours a year on our Super H from 1968 to 1972, most of them wishing I had ANY brakes, let alone good brakes. I keep them working right now. I push snow on my concrete driveway in winter with my SH, driveway slopes quite a bit, I have to ride one brake or the other, which is about the hardest thing you can do to them.
 
The old band brake on the H was a better brake with less maintenance to keep working. The next step was the brakes on the 06 series . In between was a lot of not so good brakes.
 
If you have half an eye for seeing how things come apart and go back together its exactly how it looks. Bolts come out, brakes come off. Nothing goes "sproing." Nothing will be irreparably damaged if you "do it wrong." Take them off, see what's wrong, fix it. Clean everything up, new friction discs, NO OIL, put it back together, adjust.
 
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