Super H starter weak

[oregonfarmer]

I have used this tractor for many years and it looks and runs great. The problem is the starter. It was replaced, but was no better than the one it replaced. The best new battery that would fit made only a slight difference. A new starter switch didn't help either! You have to run the starter in "spurts", it never will just keep turning. The battery cables look good and they are #2.Perhaps I should go to 12, but I want to stay original.

Thanks

 

[John M]

Bigger cables.

 

[rustyfarmall]

(quoted from post at 11:52:14 10/05/20) I have used this tractor for many years and it looks and runs great. The problem is the starter. It was replaced, but was no better than the one it replaced. The best new battery that would fit made only a slight difference. A new starter switch didn't help either! You have to run the starter in "spurts", it never will just keep turning. The battery cables look good and they are #2.Perhaps I should go to 12, but I want to stay original.

Thanks

I doubt very much if larger cables will make any difference. I grew up on a Farmall H that had the same issues as you describe and nothing we did made any difference, so finally, because it ALWAYS started when needed, we decided to just live with it. On an opposite note, I now own a 1950 Farmall H, original 6 volt, and it starts like it has been converted to 12 volts. I do not know what may have been changed, or altered, but I suspect something has been done to the starter.

 

[cornerpost]

Starter may crank engine but use so much juice nothing left
for spark. Had 1952 H like that and Made a trip to Ag Electric
in Racine MN to go through and clean starter. Starts first time
around now.

 

[David G]

You sure timing is not too advanced?

Take out coil wire, crank and see if same.

 

[jal-SD]

Make sure that the starter nose where it
meets the block is clean and rust/paint
free. Same for the block. 6V systems do
not function well if there is any paint
or rust where current is supposed to
flow. The mating surfaces of the block
and starter must be fully engaged as must
the battery's ground strap to the block.

 

[Ellis Kinney]

Try running your ground wire to the bolt that holds the starter to the frame. Ellis

 

[old]

With 6 volts you need battery cables that are 0 or 00 or you will have the problem you have due to amp loss in the cables that are way to small

 

[charlieu]

(quoted from post at 23:26:47 10/05/20) With 6 volts you need battery cables that are 0 or 00 or you will have the problem you have due to amp loss in the cables that are way to small

Here is a real simple test. After trying to start the engine and when it does not want to go. Start by feeling of all the electrical connections when you find a warm connection you have a problem. If you have a hot connection you have a big problem.

I will add the AES in Racine MN. is a very good electrical repair shop 1-507-378-2101 Talk to Brian or Linda

 

[rustyfarmall]

(quoted from post at 15:26:47 10/05/20) With 6 volts you need battery cables that are 0 or 00 or you will have the problem you have due to amp loss in the cables that are way to small

Not really. My 1950 H, original 6 volt system, has #1 cables. It starts like it has been converted to 12 volts.

 

[gene bender]

when using the starter feel the ends of the cables if at either end you find a warm place that is sign of bad
connection or bad cable

 

[IHdigemdepper]

You need to do a voltage drop on you system..ie volt meter pos lead on batt pos neg lead on solenoid at starter.No more than 250 milivolts drop.Also do neg lead same way,same results. By doing this you will eliminate all electrical systems main feeds.Start switch doesn't carry much amps as it only triggers the starter through solenoid.You can also do a amps test on the starter with a DVOM & amp clamp if you have or can get one.This will show you actual amps starter is drawing.