Super MD, removing frame rails

[Dalrymple]

Can I remove both frame rails at the same time while leaving the engine attached to the tractor and supported from underneath? If so, where should I support it? Oil pan? Torque tube?

I have equipment to handle the bolster and will separate it from the rails first.

 

[Janicholson]

The engine and tube must be supported seperately and absolutely when doing what you plan. The rear engine plate and clutch would be subject to damage. I would do one at a time if it were mine. All would depend on which way forces would be applied, but be careful. Jim

 

[rustyfarmall]

The torque tube would be the best I think, and maybe under the oil pan as well if it will set for an extended period, but the oil pan might be damaged if it supports ALL the weight.

 

[Dalrymple]

The goal here is, first, a thorough cleaning and crud removal, then later a nice paint job. Removing one rail at a time is fine for the cleaning but for paint it would be preferable to have them both off.

I haven't split one of these tractors so I don't know exactly what is left to hold the engine on after the rails are off. Could I put bolts back in the rear engine plate where the rails came from? Maybe I could fabricate a stand for the front engine mounts?

I'm working with the rear axle castings sitting on solid wood cribbing, so the tractor is very stable.

 

[Bob M]

You can safely support the front of the torque tube (ie under the clutch housing). The front end and frame rails can then be removed leaving the engine cantilevered out front.

SAFETY FIRST! Be sure the both rear wheels are securely chocked, and you have a stable housing support beneath the clutch housing working on the tractor. (I use a crib of stacked 6x6 oak timbers)

 

[Ellis Kinney]

I wouldn't support anything from the oil pan. Ellis

 

[randy hall]

always just support under the clutch housing. there are two long half inch bolts holding the engine to the clutch housing after the frame rails are off.

 

[sflem849]

Don't forget that MD motor is 1.5 times as heavy as a plain old M motor.

 

[Dalrymple]

You can safely support the front of the torque tube (ie under the clutch housing). The front end and frame rails can then be removed leaving the engine cantilevered out front.

This is what I was hoping to hear.

Don't forget that MD motor is 1.5 times as heavy as a plain old M motor.

This is certainly one of my concerns!

there are two long half inch bolts holding the engine to the clutch housing after the frame rails are off

Is this enough? That's what the question really boils down to.

 

[Bob M]

(quoted from post at 13:49:35 01/25/12) there are two long half inch bolts holding the engine to the clutch housing after the frame rails are off...

Is this enough? That's what the question really boils down to.

Not to worry! The engine is fastened to the clutch housing by six large (3/4"?) hex bolts.

Keep in mind they hold the front and back halves of the tractor together - they carry all the tractor operating loads. The side rails only hold the front end (bolster assembly) in place, and serve as a place to mount implements like cultivators.

 

[Knoxcityfarmboy]

The frame rails also hold the front of the engine

 

[jim warehime]

Just replaced the frame rails on my 51 md... get it jacked up
and block it up with wood cribbing is a must. Place the
cribbing under the front of torque tube (below the clutch). The
hardest part of the job is getting the bolster lined up when
reinstalled. The oil filter is a royal SOB if the frame rail hasn't
been notched to allow the removal of lower filter bolt. But
good luck and BE CAREFUL! Jim.

 

[Dalrymple]

Alright, sounds like I can do what I wanted to do. Thanks to everyone!!