Super MTA Replace Rear Bearings

We were going to repair a leak where the rear axle housing mounts to the rear end housing and when we cracked it open we found part of the inner bearing in the bottom of the housing. So we removed the top today to remove the big gear on the inside so we could remove the axle housing. Do any of you know the part numbers to the inner and outer rear axle bearings? I would like to go a head and order them and get them coming so we can put this back together as soon as possible. We should have them out and apart in the next few days. I figured we should replace inner and outer on both sides while we are in there.Would Y'all do that too?I didn't know if this is a common issue or a fluke. Are the gaskets still available? and if so, where? As always, thanks for the advice!
 
I don't know the IH part numbers but all the bearings in those things are standard metric bearings.

The basic number is 214 and will get you the inner and outer diameter and width. Beyond that, each manufacturer uses suffixes
and prefixes to tell if it is open or has shields or seals and whether it has a standard complement or full complement. The
inner bearing will be a full complement bearing which means it has more balls than the outer bearing. More balls means more load
capacity. However, In order to make it like that they cut filling slots into the inner and outer race and it loses some of it's
axial load capacity vs a standard complement.

I think Timken max type is 214W. For SKF it is simply 214 and the standard complement is a 6214. MRC is 214M for full complement
and 214K for standard. (If I remember correctly! Double check all these numbers!)

IIRC the outer bearing will have one shield on the bull gear side to help keep too much grease from migrating into the axle
housing. Probably easier to find one with two shields and pop one out with a screwdriver. The inner bearing has no shields or
seals. Also with the inner bearing there *may* be a preference as to whether the filling slots are installed facing toward or
away from the bull gear but I can't remember.

Another option is to upgrade the inner bearing to a roller bearing as they did on the later 560's. I'm not familiar though with
the exact configuration of the roller bearing as there are variables for how the two halves are captured for locating the axle
and keeping it from walking out as well as getting it assembled.
 
FYI, the CNHI parts ..diagram.. Jim posted for you is a little tricky to view on a phone. To see the diagram you need to click the little picture icon at the bottom. Also on a phone it does not always show you if there is multiple sub-sections, as when you click the ..12- Chassis.. at the top of the page then you will see a 1 in a square with an arrow by it at the bottom of the new subsection list. If you click the arrow it will go to the second page that is not shown. To see all the parts sections for your tractor click in the search box at the top and choose model, then type in Super M-TA. In case you did not know when ever the serial number ..60001 and up.. designation is shown that is what the MTA models are. Most all the quirks of the parts site are not there when viewed on a PC.
 
A SKF 214 crosses to a MRC 214-M if you want a metal shield on one then you want a MRC 214-MF. which Ive been told wont be available until September. i called SKF they are very help full. 1-800-672-700 also their are free down loads from SKF on crossing both bearing and seal. just google it. MRC and SKF areown by the same company you can take the same skf # say 214 just the 214 means its a deep grove ball bearing
214-m means its max fill , deep groove balling
214-z means its deep grove ball bearing , max fill, shielded on one side
-2z means its deep grove ball bearing shielded on both sides
NR- means Ring grove

now on the MRC side 214-M - deep grove , max fill bearing
214-FM - deep groove ball bearing , metal shield on one side
-MG _ deep groove ball bearing , max fill, with ring groove
I think i got this correct you can call skf to make sure , also they have apps you can down load to check to make sure your bearing is a skf not a conterfit and one to see what the bearing looks like
 
You really did NOT have to pull the top to remove the bull gears , Ya just pull the PTO and remove the bolt holding the bull gear to the axle then ya slide the axle out and allow the bull gear to setel to the bottom of the rear end. Gskt's can be had at your friendly Case I H what ever they call themselfs today . More then likely that tractor at one time carried a mounted corn picker as this was the most common leak on axle housings as the bolts would stretch under the weight of them old 2 ME and 2 MH pickers with the wheels slide all the way out to the ends of the axles .
 
EXTREMELY VALUABLE INFORMATION, When I busted the bearing seal cage on my M I thought I had ruined my tractor. I did this due to ignorance of course, trying to remove the old seals by removing the cage and pounding them out. The experts on this website explained how to remove the bull gear through the PTO casting hole and this technique worked perfectly for me and I am not a mechanic. Ellis
 
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