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What a new set of spark plugs and cleaning the air cleaner oil cup can make. My 1946 A/C/ C that had sat for years I am getting it ready as a back up hay mowing tractor. It was running but poorly. It had 1 Champ H10 and 3 Auto-lite 437 plug in it and they all looked a bit black. I put in 4 NGK3112 plugs and figured while I was at it I'd check the air cleaner oil cup. The oil in it looked milky and it had part of a wasps nest in it. Put some gas in it and fire it up and it ran a whole lot better.

Just posted this to let others know and think about why things may not run well
 
And it's usually the easy stuff, too. Changed out the plugs a few months ago on my truck. Six out of eight had blow-by past the ceramic. One was missing the little electrode that sticks out. New plugs doubled my mileage & made my 460 not feel like a doggy 302.

Also, I'm starting to doubt the quality of Autolite plugs. Don't think I got 20K out of those.

Mike
 
And it's usually the easy stuff, too. Changed out the plugs a few months ago on my truck. Six out of eight had blow-by past the ceramic. One was missing the little electrode that sticks out. New plugs doubled my mileage & made my 460 not feel like a doggy 302.

Also, I'm starting to doubt the quality of Autolite plugs. Don't think I got 20K out of those.

Mike
Champs and auto lite from what I have heard are now made in the land of almost right
 
The miss I had on my 8N turned out to be a faulty, BRAND NEW, NGK plug. No spark across the electrode out of the hole and laying on the block. Installed a new plug (also NGK) and that cleared up the miss. Even so, the NGK's appear to be better than the Champion or AutoLites, although I prefer Champion over AutoLite. zuhnc
 
I use AC Delco ignition parts. I have had fewer "bad when new" problems over NGK. AC Delco plugs are engineered for better performance in my GM engines. I remove, check and clean plugs every 20,000 miles after the first 50,000 but they are made to go 100,000. Never had a bad one under 100,000 and I have run original equipment plugs 200,000 miles before changing them, with routine checks....James
 
I use AC Delco ignition parts. I have had fewer "bad when new" problems over NGK. AC Delco plugs are engineered for better performance in my GM engines. I remove, check and clean plugs every 20,000 miles after the first 50,000 but they are made to go 100,000. Never had a bad one under 100,000 and I have run original equipment plugs 200,000 miles before changing them, with routine checks....James
I don't think AC Delco has made a sparkplug in YEARS, they rebrand plugs made by others and I think you would be surprised to know what companies those are.
 
I've been trying to trace a high speed miss on my TO-30. News wires and all new standard parts in distributor.

Plugs are not that old but it's got me thinking.
 
What a new set of spark plugs and cleaning the air cleaner oil cup can make. My 1946 A/C/ C that had sat for years I am getting it ready as a back up hay mowing tractor. It was running but poorly. It had 1 Champ H10 and 3 Auto-lite 437 plug in it and they all looked a bit black. I put in 4 NGK3112 plugs and figured while I was at it I'd check the air cleaner oil cup. The oil in it looked milky and it had part of a wasps nest in it. Put some gas in it and fire it up and it ran a whole lot better.

Just posted this to let others know and think about why things may not run well
It seems like the more older tractors we own the more things we tend to have to fix due to them not running every day. Plugs and electrical items don't seem to last. Tho a good friend joke that the reason we notice it more is due to the fact that We are getting alot older and out living the life span of the parts we are putting on the tractors.
 
I've been trying to trace a high speed miss on my TO-30. News wires and all new standard parts in distributor.

Plugs are not that old but it's got me thinking.
Check that the distributor shaft has little to no side to side play and check that the point gap is the same on all 4 lobes of the shaft
 
Check that the distributor shaft has little to no side to side play and check that the point gap is the same on all 4 lobes of the shaft

I took down the whole distributor, removed the gear and shaft, cleaned it, oiled it and all new parts. Did not seem to have play in the shaft/bushings. Dwell is constant/stable, points gapped. Advance mech is free and works.
 

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