Swapping out ignition

A_Joseph_PE

New User
Have a new tractor. Previous owner passed away and the wife couldn't find the keys. I bought a replacement ignition thinking it would be a direct swap, but looks like previous owner also changed the ignition, perhaps?

See image. Any idea what goes where? I know where each one was placed on the intact ignition but new one im not so sure?

Should be obvious new vs old

Thanks in advance
a227969.jpg
 
The old switch is a very common universal switch. It would be easier to find another switch like the old one than to have to cut the wires and change the terminals. Also the individual "push on" terminals are prone to getting pulled off, vibrating loose, etc.

If you want to use the new one, you can. If the terminals are not marked, you will have to check it out with an ohm meter to see what does what. Typically, on a 3 terminal switch, there will be an "ignition" and a "start" position. If that is the way this switch is configured, you will combine the "ignition" and "accessory" wires from the old switch onto the "ignition" terminal of the new switch.

But, there is a possibility the switch is entirely different, as in for a magneto ignition, or it may not have a start position. In that case, it may not work for your application.
 
Is the new switch from the OEM tractor manufacturer? Is this tractor supposed to start with the key, or a push button? If you want to get the tractor back to original, and you know what that is, that's fine. Otherwise, I agree that you might as well make it easy on yourself, and get another switch, or key, instead of changing wire ends.

I think I see a little mark on the new switch near the terminal. It should be easy enough to figure out the wires- (bat. power goes to B, or BAT, wire to coil goes to I, or IGN, S for start, etc.
 
Joe, I'm NOT a fan of that new switch with its push on terminals and I bet you can find a threaded stud type universal ignition switch that looks and wires the same as your old one.

Looks like the old one has its three terminals labeled, BAT IGN and maybe (cant see third one) START???


BAT (that's the switches voltage input) wires to a hot battery voltage source, maybe via a wire to where the big battery cable connects to a starter switch or solenoid input. A test lamp on the wire that connected to BAT on the old switch will show constant hot voltage to ground.

IGN wires to the ignition coils input terminal, and if the switch is turned to ON (first ON position) it gets hot and stays hot

START wires to the starter solenoids small S activation terminal and is hot ONLY when/if the new switch has a spring position
labeled START which you have to hold/turn to activate the starter.

You could crimp on some push on terminals to replace the existing terminals and sure it would work (until it corrodes or gets loose) but over time it can cause problems versus the nut and stud type which last a longgggggggggg time.

John T
 
John I think the old switch is a four terminal- Bat, Ign, St, Acc.
There was a time when I could tell you what the center one was, but not anymore!
 
I know nothing about any tractor made since the mid 90's.

My mid 70's Ford 4500 backhoe, 1981 7600, and 1994 4630 all take the same key. Readily available at the dealer's for little, or sometimes, nothing. Same with my 60's Deeres.You replaced the key when you lost it or broke it, you replaced the switch when it no longer functioned. Not like a car with a unique key. Is it no longer that way?

Zeke B.
 
Put a used ignition from a 69 Fairlane on my IH454. You have to ohm the switch to find hot and run and off unless you have starter button.
 
Thanks for the help guys.

I thought that the installed switch was original, but was not. The new one was a replacement part.

Anybody know how to tell what post is what on the new one.

It is part # 529800r91.

Thanks
 
the part #529800r91. shows to go to International Harvester Tractors: Hydro 84, 354, 454, 464, 484, 574 (prior to s/n 114908); 584, 674, 684, 784, 884, 2300, 2400, 2500 (prior to s/n 114908)
 
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