Syncronizer Question

[robersw]

I tore the transmission on my JD 2010 down, almost 100% certain the issue was a stripped shift collar. After all that work, all I found out was that I was wrong. The only part that I know 100% is bad is the High Range Syncronizer Blocker. It is missing all of the balls that are supposed to hold it in the detent on the tranny.

Could that be the reason my transmission will not go in 5th or 6th but will go in all the rest of the gears? I don't think so, but I don't know what else to look at while it is apart.

For all of the dialog on this issue, you can read the 2010 Synchro-Range Issues Post.

Thanks

 

[ET]

How worn is the shift fork? If the shift fork is worn inside and lets the syncronizer disks spread apart it can cause shifting trouble.

 

[edj856]

Have you removed the gears from the shaft? Maybe a broken key that holds the 5-6 gear in place? Or the shift collar gear with a broken key? The shift collar is going to be toward the front of the tractor in both 5th and 6th gear.
A syncro issue should cause problems in all gears in that range. I think you're in the right spot.

 

[Edpap]

Hello,
I have had a few of these trans that would not go to a few different gears and I found the shift forks were worn and the shift plate ramps were worn bad It made all kinds of shift problems. check under the shift fork where the syn. rides I have built them up before.if you want to make it shift good when your done i would replace any thing that is worn including the bushings in the trans case for the shift plates with new parts.
This might not be your problem but I have changed those parts in the tractor, and it was not fun at all. now is the time to do it.
Good luck Ed
abcrepairparts

 

[robersw]

Well after I found the shift collars were good, I starting thinking that a key or something was broke on the pinion allowing to spin. I took it off, and all of that is good as well.
I saw a couple of old posts where people were saying check the shifter fork for the syncros. I don't know a measurement to check to, but just putting the syncro inside the shifter fork, there is about 1/8" of free room. That seemed ok to me.
So the thing I looked at and ordered today, was the high range blocker and drum. As I said in the first post, the blocker had lost all of the detent balls, so I did not want to take a chance on something else being wrong with it so I am replacing it all. The syncro drum had the first 3/32-1/8" of the gear teeth round off. Again I ordered it not to take a chance.
I don't feel real confident that this is the problem, but if all of my parts come in this week I will try and put it back together this weekend and find out. That is unless someone tells me something else to look at before then.
Also, I have already reassembled the speed range compartment since I could find no worn items.
Thanks

 

[ArtC]

My 2010 was missing the balls in high range as well and gear also damaged, the detent balls hold the blocker in neutral when not in use, that's what chewed up the gear, without the balls the blocker rode against the gear. The missing balls would indicate someone else had the tractor apart, check the syncro clutchs for wear as well but 5th and 6th indicate a speed change problem, I had one and it was a missing roller in the speed compartment. Take a close look at speed change compartment before you reassemble it!

 

[robersw]

Well, it is all back together and exactly the same as before. This time I am really going to wait to this winter before I take it apart again. I have no clue what else to try right now.

 

[Dpurkey1]

Good Afternoon, I realize it has been a while since this posting was made, but I have a 2010 with transmission troubles. The transmission is the only thing on this tractor that I have not rebuilt. I know these tractors have a lot of bad info out there and the shifter is certainly something that I wish John Deere would have done better, but I really like this tractor. It has about 450 hours on it since the engine was done. Now, when you drive the tractor sometimes, it will come to a halt. It will not move until you get it out of gear. You may drive it a while and it will do it again. I do not hear any grinding. Getting it out of gear when it halts, is difficult. But it finally comes. I took the top cover off and I do not see anything broken. The synchronizer discs are loose and I assume bad? I have bought some used parts and new synchronizers. I really dread this big of a project especially after all I have already done. I would be very grateful if anyone had some ideas that could help? Thank you very much!