TA Issues in a large frame (1466) tractor

[dhermesc]

My understanding is the TAs in the large frame tractors from 706 to the 1586 are run by the hydraulics and are fairly stout. And like the the mechanical TAs on the smaller tractors (656/560) when you use
the TA you shift fast like you mean it - you don't 'ease into gear. My understanding is that replace either is a PIA and requires splitting on the tractor. I know you can run a mechanical TA in the high
side basically for ever even after you have lost the low side. What about a TA on large frame tractor? I thought if the low or high side goes out eventually (usually sooner) the other side will go out and
you have to replace the TA to get the tractor back in the field.

I ask this because my son and I went to an auction to watch a 1066 sell. This tractor had one owner and the guy farmed all of 240 acres with it for its entire life. The tractor looked good - only one
injector was leaking, and the tractor had been under a roof since day one. The tires were good and it fired right up and the cab looked better in 2022 than any of ours did back in 1980. But just before
they started bidding the auctioneer piped up I absolutely guarantee the low side it out on this tractor. When you pull the handle its like you pressed in the clutch but it works fine in high side. My
son was still interested claiming that replacing the TA in that tractor was something he could do winter and we could keep using it this summer without the TA I was not convinced then the tractor sold for
$8500 - which is what I thought might buy it before the TA issues were revealed.

In the thousands of hours we ran the 56. 66 and 86 series tractors we never had a TA fail on a large frame tractor. We had one fail on a 1206 back when I was as kid but dad traded it instead of fixing it
because it was too small for what we doing with it anyway.

How expensive is it for parts for a TA in a large frame tractor and is it just an eventuality for the entire TA to fail after one side fails on a large frame?

 

[Janicholson]

There are two hydraulic clutches in the Big frame TAs. One is in front, it is the direct clutch. the other is toward the transmission and is not used to transmit engine power when in TA reduction. It is to prevent freewheeling down hills. Its capacity is very limited to engine braking with the idea that it is not to be used as such in road gears as a jake Brake or down shift to slow for a turn. The power flow in reduction (lever back) is through a sprag clutch just like the small frame tractors (but bigger in capacity). If the sprag clutch fails, and they do, the holding clutch will also fail rapidly. It will need a double split to fix. The failed rear holding clutch might n9t cause a hydraulic control failure. Jim

 

[caterpillar guy]

The TA in our 1466 was bad on the low side for I don't know how long. It pulled fine in direct which is where we left it. Didn't know it was bad till I tried it one day on the chisel plow and it slipped. Later by a few years we gutted the whole rearend for a ring and pinion gear set. We deleted the TA at that time and put a through shaft in. Plugged off the holes in the casting and never missed it for the last 6or 7 years. I've never had a TA to use so never missed them. 806 856 1466 none of them have a TA in them. To get the Better or the A&I TA will be a double split and a 2000.00 or so. While your in there you might just as well look at the rest of it and replace what you need to. You will have it apart anyway. When we did it a few years back we changed every bearing in there with new for another 2000.00 with new seals. No leaks now anywhere on the back half. Do it right if you are going to keep the tractor for several years. We still pull 24 ft vibra shank or a 25 foot soil saver with it. Soil saver is a bit much but will do it. Pulled 16 foot chisel plow with it this spring too. Worked it pretty hard.

 

[dhermesc]

My son likes using the TA on our 706 while baling. The braking makes it handy when going down hill and the windrow gets to thick for baler and you need to slow your ground speed to keep from overloading/slugging the baler.

 

[Janicholson]

The choice is yours, to repair or not. I would repair it when time allowed, because I (as your son does) find them to be a fine contribution to a fine tractor. Jim

 

[dhermesc]

We passed on this one - I thought a 1066 with the TA out on the low side wasn't worth $8500 - especially one that we didn't know anything about. Especially when we bought a Massey 1130 with a Koyker loader for $4500. We've put about 200 hours on it without a major issue.

 

[fastfarmall]

I never owned a Massey, in fact never drove a newer one,but their multi power goes out too!!

 

[dhermesc]

They go out but this one is working.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

That' 1066 would be a $12,000 tractor here in Western NY.

 

[dhermesc]

$12,000 with the TA out?

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

(quoted from post at 06:35:40 07/19/22) $12,000 with the TA out?

TA out, bald tires, rusty cab with half the windows and both doors missing.

 

[dhermesc]

Except for the tires and the TA (Multi power) that sounds a lot like my 1130 that I paid $4500 for - and that included a loader.