Table saw motor question

[Steve in VA]

I would like guidance since I'm far from an expert. Apologies as this gets long.

I have an older Craftsman 10" table saw that was given to me. I was told the motor was unreliable. Finally, it failed to start but hummed and threw breaker. The shaft could not be turned manually. The motor is a 62618 NLA. Before getting a replacement I took it apart to find that there was no trace of ever being lubed so cleaned and lubed and bench tested. It ran perfectly. Reinstalled the motor but the problem returned. Eventually I realised that if I used the in-line switch [5351-7001 NLA], it would not start. However, removing the switch and plugging directly into outlet started the motor. Ergo, the switch is at fault.

Finally, the real question: is it reasonable and safe to substitute a basic switched power strip and not fry something?

TIA

 

[Janicholson]

Basic power strips are capable of (usually) 10 amps. Replacing the switch with a handy box near the front of the saw (access for safety) and installing a standard toggle switch rated at 20 amps, or a water proof switch at 20 amps will be easy cheap and simple. A robust power strip is not close enough to the saw to be easy to use. Jim Jim

 

[showcrop]

NO! I am sure that they are out there but I have never seen a strip made to handle a saw start load. Then also a strip can have many other loads plugged into it. It would likely be overloaded. I recommend that you get a steel electric switch box, and run the wire from the motor to that box and install a switch with current rating adequate for your motor. Mount the box near where the bad switch is.

 

[Steve@Advance]

You could use a power strip IF it has a heavy enough switch.

Your typical office duty strip will not be enough, but a work bench type with a heavy duty cord and 20 amp switch will work.

One of the enemies though will be dust. If you can mount it up under the table with the switch facing down would be better.

As far as it damaging the motor, not likely. But just to be safe, always unplug it when done. Fine saw dust can be quite flammable.

If it has a good factory switch already on the saw, and it can be disassembled, it might just need cleaning and the contacts filed.

 

[Steve in VA]

Thanks so much for the quick responses and I believe I'll rummage through the electrical parts bin and install a conventional switch on the saw base.

Thanks again for the reality check.

 

[kcm.MN]

(quoted from post at 10:49:56 11/13/19) Thanks so much for the quick responses and I believe I'll rummage through the electrical parts bin and install a conventional switch on the saw base.

Thanks again for the reality check.

I'd recommend getting a replacement tablesaw switch. They come in pretty much every imaginable configuration, and don't cost a lot. These switches are made with large, easy-to-find paddles so that the operator can quickly find and shut down the saw.

Check these out:
https://www.amazon.com/table-saw-replacement-switch/s?k=table+saw+replacement+switch

 

[kcm.MN]

Don't know why, but my post is showing up in Classic, but not in Modern. If you use Modern View, switch over to classic for a moment.

 

[Bob]

(quoted from post at 12:25:27 11/13/19) I would like guidance since I'm far from an expert. Apologies as this gets long.

I have an older Craftsman 10" table saw that was given to me. I was told the motor was unreliable. Finally, it failed to start but hummed and threw breaker. The shaft could not be turned manually. The motor is a 62618 NLA. Before getting a replacement I took it apart to find that there was no trace of ever being lubed so cleaned and lubed and bench tested. It ran perfectly. Reinstalled the motor but the problem returned. Eventually I realised that if I used the in-line switch [5351-7001 NLA], it would not start. However, removing the switch and plugging directly into outlet started the motor. Ergo, the switch is at fault.

Finally, the real question: is it reasonable and safe to substitute a basic switched power strip and not fry something?

TIA

The original was likely a safety switch that was not easy to activate by accident needed/ be pulled on to start, and bumping it would turn saw off, plus had a removable key.

If you use a typical toggle switch you will lose these safety features.

A toggle switch could easily be bumped, starting the saw unexpectedly, with possibly horrific results.

Call me a "safety nazi", if you must, but hat exact situation occurred locally some years ago and an older gentleman nearly lost his hand, and required HOURS of plastic surgery and then therapy to regain some of the use of his hand. The failed safety switch on that saw had been replaced by a toggle switch.

If you GOOGLE "table saw switch" you will get many safer choices, including one for $6.25 from Home Depot, a SMALL price to pay for safety, IMHO.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTE...jBx2TTAD8EAQYAiABEgLeqvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Michael Soldan]

Steve , my table saw switch failed when I had it at the cottage so I put a regular switch on it and it worked fine. A few days later a supply company in Goderich (Ideal supply) were able to get me a replacement switch for around $10 . Now a lot of our friends on the forum were concerned about safety if the switch was accidentally bumped. I never leave my saw so this could happen , I always crank the blade right down below the saw table so even if someone purposely turned the saw on it will do no damage , this is just a safety thing I do. Getting a replacement part is always the best way to go and I hope you can find one easily.

 

[M-MAN]

My old Delta contractor saw uses a toggle switch. I don't see any benefit to the new type switch. If you accidentally get into a saw blade when it's running it's too late for a bigger so called safety switch to make a bit of difference.

 

[Stephen Newell]

Just put a box and a toggle switch on it like a light switch. I have Craftsman radial arm saw with 220v toggle switch on it. Just located the switch where it's not accidentally turned on. If you have young children around you might put a magnetic switch on it.

 

[Steve in VA]

This crew is great! After looking at all the replies, I went on line and ordered a safety switch. I had fixated on either a direct replacement or wire up a conventional switch. I think this is the best option.
Once again, thanks for setting me on a good path.

 

[Dusty MI]

If your concerned about saw dust getting into the new switch, then you might look into a rain tight switch assembly.

Dusty

 

[Geo-TH,In]

No to a 10 amp power strip.
I use a 20 amp light switch, rocker style.
I think the old craftsman used a capacitor start motor, around 1 hp.
Old craftsman radial arm has no capacitor. It has end switch. Start windings.
Circular saws use a motor with brushes. Lots of torque. Not sure if you can find a replacement motor with brushes.
George

 

[Russ from MN]

I have a small table saw that I put a double box on with a receptacle and a regular heavy duty (20 A) light switch, but I put a guard over the switch so it can't be turned on accidentally. Like someone said, turning it off after you get your hand in the blade is too late!

 

[Bob]

(quoted from post at 18:05:04 11/13/19) This crew is great! After looking at all the replies, I went on line and ordered a safety switch. I had fixated on either a direct replacement or wire up a conventional switch. I think this is the best option.
Once again, thanks for setting me on a good path.

Steve, I believe you made a wise choice, and am disappointed in some of the other replies.

The potential for serious injury caused by a simple unguarded switch is so great, and the cost of buying an appropriate switch is so reasonable there's no reason not to go the "safe" route, IMHO.

Good for you,

 

[PJH]

I use a 30 amp box similar to this on my old table saw. Saw has a 1 hp 220 volt motor.
an example

 

[rustyfarmall]

(quoted from post at 10:49:56 11/13/19) Thanks so much for the quick responses and I believe I'll rummage through the electrical parts bin and install a conventional switch on the saw base.

Thanks again for the reality check.

I own what is probably the same Craftsman table saw as yours. Bought it an auction. Came with a common, bakelight, surface mount light switch. That switch finally failed, so I replaced it with a more modern style of light switch. It works good.

 

[buickanddeere]

Amazing how many people here. who they , their families, hired help and friends . They are all so clever and quick that safety equipment and precautions are not required .

 

[1948CaseVAI]

I have had great luck with eReplacementparts dot com. Several items that are NLA as far as manufacturer says are available there.