TE20 not starting no spark

[Gonya518]

Hello everyone, I have an issue with my '49 TE20 (I believe that's the year) starting. I have no spark to the plugs. I have checked the coil and it seems to test fine. .02 on the primary and 9.62 on the secondary. I also tried another coil with 10-11 on the secondary. I put a new condenser, points, rotor and plugs on it. It was previously converted to 12v before i bought it. I am at a loss for what it could be and really could use some insight

Also, maybe a dumb question, When trying to start it it turns over by turning the key all the way to the right, does this mean that the "S" switch on the shifter is disabled. and overall, should it work that way.

 

[Jim.ME]

If it starts via the key switch, not the shifter, the shifter start has been bypassed by something for wiring changes.

For you ignition with no spark, start by seeing if there is voltage at the coil when the key is turned to run. no power to the coil it won't start regardless of how it checks for ohms.

 

[Jim L WA]

Like Jim.ME said, you need to check for battery at the switch side of the coil, then go to the distributor side and check for battery there. Take the distributor cap off and if the points are open bump the engine over till they close and see if the battery reading cuts to about half. Some new points sets come with a coating on the contacts that need to be cleaned off.
When you bump the engine see if the distributor shaft is even turning.
You can save a lot of money by diagnosing rather than just throw parts at it.

 

[Gonya518]

Thank you Jim(s) for your reply. I have 12v at both sides of the coil with the key in the on position. Checked the points and cleaned for any coating and I have a spark there. Distributor is turning and have12 volts on the open points but when they are closed I have 0v.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thank you Jim(s) for your reply. I have 12v at both sides of the coil with the key in the on position. Checked the points and cleaned for any coating and I have a spark there. Distributor is turning and have12 volts on the open points but when they are closed I have 0v.

Open points you should have voltage, closed points you should not, so that is right.

If you have a test light, ground the lead and hold the probe on the terminal the wire going to the distributor is on. Crank the engine to start it, the light should flash on and off as the points open and close.

 

[Jim L WA]

The next test is to put the distributor cap back on, rotor in place, and pull the coil wire from the center of the cap and hold it a 1/4 inch or so from a clean spot on the engine. With the key on spin the engine over and look for spark at the end of the coil wire.

 

[Gonya518]

The next test is to put the distributor cap back on, rotor in place, and pull the coil wire from the center of the cap and hold it a 1/4 inch or so from a clean spot on the engine. With the key on spin the engine over and look for spark at the end of the coil wire.

Jim thank you for the help. I have spark at the plugs now, cleaned and re-adjusted the points seemed to work. Still won’t start, gas not filling up the fuel bowl unless I loosen it. Gas to carb is there as it was starting to leak out of the drain screw.

 

[Jim.ME]

Jim thank you for the help. I have spark at the plugs now, cleaned and re-adjusted the points seemed to work. Still won’t start, gas not filling up the fuel bowl unless I loosen it. Gas to carb is there as it was starting to leak out of the drain screw.

If the float needle valve is closed and holding inside the carburetor air can be trapped in the sediment bowl under the tank, gas will not enter the bowl until the air is vented out through the carburetor. If you remove the drainplug from the bottom of the carburetor bowl gas should readily flow into the sediment bowl and on through the line and out the carb drain. It should flow about a pint in 2 minutes or less. If you are getting less than that for flow, you will need to work back from the carburetor to the tank to find the restriction.