tea ignition timing

[charisma1986]

hi guys, who has experimented with tea-20 petrol ignition timing?

i know the book has a recommended setting, but that setting factors in using the hand crank which requires timing to be retarded.

i will never use this function.

so what degrees are you guys setting your tractors to to get a smidge more power out of them?

 

[Steve@Advance]

I just set them by ear. Reason is the fuel today is much more consistent
and higher quality than when that tractor was built. Also they had no
idea where it would end up, maybe some 3rd world country with terrible
quality fuel. They timed them for worst case scenario. And the low
compression, slow turning engines are not that particular.

As long as it sounds good, runs well, doesn't kick back against the
starter, doesn't clatter under load, it will be fine.

Be sure the distributor is in good condition, centrifugal advance
working, no side play in the shaft, and points properly gapped before
adjusting the timing.

 

[John Deere D]

Good day charisma1986

Before I started changing the point of ignition, I checked the condition of the Timing chain, and associate sprockets.
They were totally worn out!! Not uncommon with the Standard Engines in the TEA-20's.

At the end of a 12 inch ratchet I noticed the ratchet would move 2>3 between Clockwise and counter clockwise before
the rotor would move.

On my second TEA 20 S#251562 the drive TANG on the end of the DISTRIBUTOR shaft was so badly worn it would misfire.

The DRIVE TANG on the end of the DISTRIBUTOR on all three of my TEA -20's is OFF CENTER. The drive key way on the GEAR
DRIVE matting with the CAMSHAFT is also off center.

When my TEA 20 acted up, I placed a socket on the head of the CAP SCREW, that holds the pulley to the CRANKSHAFT .
I then turned the crankshaft Clockwise until the rotor (remove distributor cap and view rotor)started to move. I then
turned the crankshaft counter clockwise until the rotor started to move and found that the TIMING chain, and both the CAM
sprocket and Crank sprocket had to be replaced. Once I opened up the front cover, the GOVERNOR assembly also had to be
replaced.

WITH BATTERY Disconnected..

ON both of my TEA-20s

I set the ignition timing by turning the engine over in the diction of NORMAL RUNNING /operating .... As the piston
approached TDC, there is a 1/4??? hole drilled through the engine bellhousing just below the Starter.
Inset an appropriate tool ( eg DRILL BIT shank) and when the matting hole in the flywheel aligns inset DRILL SHANK into
flywheel.

Rotate distributor rotor in direction that ROTOR turns when engine is running.
Take NOTE.. when Distributor POINTS JUST start to open secure distributor in place.

NOT ALL TEA-20's are static timed to the same point BTDC.
After I had the engine running (with starter removed) I then used a strobe light to advance the ignition until it would kick back on the hand crank. Then I retarded the ignition by ONE and a HALF teeth on the flywheel.
I'm away from my summer residence for several months, and do not have my FERGUSON ORIGINAL SERVICE MANUL with me.



Info I compiled when REPLACING Crank sprocket ,Cam sprocket and Timing Chain.
(1) 85 MM Bore Engine:

(2) Front Lip Oil Seal National /Federal Mogul Lip Seal # 472164V A SMALL amount of BLUE Silicone was placed around the
inside bore of the front timing chain cover before Lip seal was installed:

(3) I installed a repair SLEEVE on the front drive Pulley, make DURA SLEEVE # 99175. The sealing area were the LIP SEAL
makes contact was slightly grooved. Dura Sleeve specs. 1.745>1.753 Diam. # 68 Rockwell Hardness:

(4) On installation the Governor plunger shall be reseeded tight against the Flyweights and no weights shall be loose or
hanging down:

(5) A small amount (only enough to make the surface shiny) of engine oil was added to the shaft of the governor PLUNGER as
well as the timing chain:

(6)There are NO timing MARKS on the NEW Sprockets. You may wish to line the timing marks up (facing each other) before you
remove the sprockets:

(7)Place the old sprocket (CAM SPROCKET) on top of the new sprockets and accurately scribe the new sprockets as to the
timing marks. There are FOUR holes in the hub of the CAM SPROCKET. Keep turning the old sprocket until the four holes and
all teeth line up. These holes are slightly off set. I used several SHOULDERED cap screws to ensure I had the new and old
sprockets properly aligned. You may have to flip the old sprocket over...see right up:

(8) It's good practice to measure the thickness of the hub of the old crankshaft sprocket and the new crankshaft sprocket
as the teeth on the two sprockets should align for both proper operation and longevity.(there were shims between the old
Crankshaft sprocket and the shoulder portion of the crankshaft):

Cheers
Bob...



Consider typing TEA20 Back to life in archives of this forum under the FERGUSON section and read all comments from
Griz/Bob (Aust)John(UK) and Tucker101
These gentleman seem to have a great handle on the TEA-20's There are several gentleman from the UK,Ireland,Australia and
the USA with more experience than I have...

 

[Jim L WA]

Good stuff that John Deere D posted. However I did the same as Steve@Advance does. I tried using that silly little timing mark hole that Continental uses, but I couldn't see anything. I thought about removing the starter and rotating the flywheel to clean the marks and perhaps highlight them, but that meant removing the distributor again.
So at a fast idle, I started moving the distributor clockwise until I detected a slowing of the engine, then backed the distributor up looking for the sweet spot. It starts and runs just fine now.

 

[charisma1986]

thanks to all