TEA20 oil pump driver

[ecolitan]

My oil pump in a TEA20 looks to have sucked a small piece of metal through the filter screen and into the pump. When it got into the pump vanes, it lodged and prevented rotation of the vanes inside the pump. The driver rod which comes down inside the pump housing from a sprocket driver beneath the distributor did not get the message to stop turning when the pump jammed, and the end of the driver rod going into the pump snapped off. I found it inside the top of the pump when I took it apart.

Does anyone know how to remove the driver rod to the oil pump in a TEA20?

I have taken off the distributor and can see the top of the driving rod which is broken off down inside the oil pump housing. I remove the driving sprocket but cannot simply pull the rod straight up.

Here is a picture of the top of the diver rod I'm referring to, looking down onto it through the opening where the distributor sits.

Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[John Deere D]

My oil pump in a TEA20 looks to have sucked a small piece of metal through the filter screen and into the pump. When it got into the pump vanes, it lodged and prevented rotation of the vanes inside the pump. The driver rod which comes down inside the pump housing from a sprocket driver beneath the distributor did not get the message to stop turning when the pump jammed, and the end of the driver rod going into the pump snapped off. I found it inside the top of the pump when I took it apart.

Does anyone know how to remove the driver rod to the oil pump in a TEA20?

I have taken off the distributor and can see the top of the driving rod which is broken off down inside the oil pump housing. I remove the driving sprocket but cannot simply pull the rod straight up.

Here is a picture of the top of the diver rod I'm referring to, looking down onto it through the opening where the distributor sits.


View attachment 74552

Any suggestions appreciated.

Have you considered inserting a metal rod into the oil pump drive bore....and see what happens when force is applied to the end of the rod?

 

[ecolitan]

Thank you so much for your advice and the helpful diagram!

With some coercion I was able to push the driver rod up drive bore and extract it. The end where it had snapped was flared which is what was preventing it coming up smoothly.

Now I need to decide how to repair or replace the broken drive rod. This doesn't seem to be a piece that can be ordered from a catalogue.

 

[John Deere D]

If you post your general location....possibly someone has TEA Ferguson Parts / Salvage Tractors....??

On another NOTE.
Your Engine is equipped with STAND ALONE wet Power Cylinders. If the head has been removed...the Power Cylinders shall move if and when the crankshaft is rotated . A 100% guarantee the Power Cylinders shall move and destroy the GASKET that seals between the bottom of the Power Cylinder and the counter Bore of the Engine block. A TEA-20 does not have dry sleeves and or O-rings!

 

[ecolitan]

Hi John Deere D, thanks for the heads up about the gaskets on the cylinder sleeves. There is a warning in the Haynes Repair Manual I have about not disturbing the sleeves by rotating the crankshaft, but it doesn't mention the consequences. What manual did you get those diagrams from that you posted? I would like to try to obtain the same book.

My cylinders and pistons are very worn, so I am actually going to replace all the sleeves, pistons and gaskets this time around.

I'm located in Sweden. There are few people around here selling TEA-20 salvage parts, but the ads I can find right now are all or nothing and not willing to sell individual parts. If I can't find a replacement by the time I'm putting everything back together, I will try to make a replacement myself and can post here how it goes.

 

[John Deere D]

Hi John Deere D, thanks for the heads up about the gaskets on the cylinder sleeves. There is a warning in the Haynes Repair Manual I have about not disturbing the sleeves by rotating the crankshaft, but it doesn't mention the consequences. What manual did you get those diagrams from that you posted? I would like to try to obtain the same book.

My cylinders and pistons are very worn, so I am actually going to replace all the sleeves, pistons and gaskets this time around.

I'm located in Sweden. There are few people around here selling TEA-20 salvage parts, but the ads I can find right now are all or nothing and not willing to sell individual parts. If I can't find a replacement by the time I'm putting everything back together, I will try to make a replacement myself and can post here how it goes.

On e-bay,I located this Service manual (Green )out of England and had it sent here to Canada. (2002)
The blue original Harry Ferguson Service manual, I located here in Canada on a web based for sale forum,known as "KiJiJi"
The parts Book,I also located on e-bay (USA) and had it sent here to Canada
Bob....North Western Canada...Alberta...

 

[John Deere D]

My oil pump in a TEA20 looks to have sucked a small piece of metal through the filter screen and into the pump. When it got into the pump vanes, it lodged and prevented rotation of the vanes inside the pump. The driver rod which comes down inside the pump housing from a sprocket driver beneath the distributor did not get the message to stop turning when the pump jammed, and the end of the driver rod going into the pump snapped off. I found it inside the top of the pump when I took it apart.

Does anyone know how to remove the driver rod to the oil pump in a TEA20?

I have taken off the distributor and can see the top of the driving rod which is broken off down inside the oil pump housing. I remove the driving sprocket but cannot simply pull the rod straight up.

Here is a picture of the top of the diver rod I'm referring to, looking down onto it through the opening where the distributor sits.


View attachment 74552

Any suggestions appreciated.

Try,on the Internet....enter.......... Tractor Breakers United Kingdom

 

[stevieb49829]

There should be nothing wrong with finding your part, even in the US, and having it shipped to you (except for the shipping cost that is). That drive is just a shaft and the distributor drive collar, so it shouldn't be much to ship it. Or a machine shop could weld on a piece to the end, and remachine the slot that mates with the oil pump. steve