Tell me about the 1020

john e.c. mi

New User
When I was a kid back in the 70's I remember my dad looking at a 1020 but we never bought it. Ever since I have a thought they were a cool little tractor. I would like to have one just to play with. What were their strong and week points? I found a diesel with R+P rear axles which seems uncommon on these.
 
820, 830, 1020, 300, etc. are all in the same family and on the same platform - with minor differences. All great tractors. 820s and 830s have some odd-ball German hydraulic systems and they were only available in diesel versions as I recall. 1020 and 300 came in gas or diesel.

If I was buying a 1020, here's what I would NOT want. Not the teeny little German hydraulic pump up front rated a .69 cubic inches per rev. Better pump is 1.38 c.i. and better yet is the USA pump rated at 2.4 c.i. per rev.

I also would not want manual steering or non-live PTO.

I also would not want a 1020 diesel IF it still has the Stanadyne/Roosamaster CB injection pump. NO parts are available for repair.

A 1020 diesel, with a JDB injection pump, and 8 cylinder hydraulic pump, power steering and a live PTO is a great tractor.

The 1020 painted yellow and sold as the Industrial 300 tractor is even better. Has a few minor tweaks, especially better hydraulics available.

I've got a 1020, 300, and 300B. All very good machines.
 
I've got a gasser here that I've had for a loader tractor since 1981.I use it seven days a week to load silage and load manure a couple of times a week. Laod round bales out of the field with it. Pretty much indestructable. But,with that said,I'm finally having a small problem with mine that I'm going to have to get into this week. I'm loosing some coolant into the oil. Hoping it's just a head gasket not the o-rings in a sleeve.
 
I have had 3 mechanics who cut there teeth on those models that they were junk. They told me to run away from them.
 
I think you might be confusing the 1020 with the 2010. I have heard lot of people say the 2010 is junk (along with the 1010) but haven't heard the same bad news about the 1020.
 
Have a 1020 gas with 48 loader...moves round bales manure firewood snow dirt,cuts hay rakes hay etc,etc starts and runs at least every other day all winter would not be without it. Figure I'll keep it until I can't get up on the seat,then I'll just look at it, Bob
 
(quoted from post at 18:16:29 11/28/10) I have had 3 mechanics who cut there teeth on those models that they were junk. They told me to run away from them.

The only 1020's that I've seen that were bad were worn out and had poor maintenance.
 
The German pump looks totally different from the USA pump - and comes in four or eight cylinder versions. If a four, it will over have four big caps around the outside with big spaces inbetween. If an eight cylinder, it will have eight big caps. German pump pressure-adjuster is usually a big straight screwdriver slot - instead of a 6-sided internal Allen hex like usually used on the USA pumps. German pump also has a round driveshaft with one key. USA pump shaft is splined with no key.
 
Either your memory is bad, or these guys were NOT mechanics. 1020 and 2020 was a huge leap of improvement from the earlier 1010 and 2010.
 
No, they are professionals. Those tractors are harder than hell to work on. I thought of buying one but between the mechanics and the 2 Deere dealers, they said they are pricey to work on. Same with the 2940,2950,2155 type tractors. Total junk.
 
OK. Obviously, your working-definitions for the words "mechanic" and "professional" differ from mine.

To me, if a change in tractor design results in a tractor that is more fuel efficient, easier to use, lasts longer, and has better parts availability - I'll call it "better."

1010 has lousy manual brakes, a short-lived engine design with almost no aftermarket parts support, open-center hydraulics, and awful power steering (if even equipped with it).

1020s all had excellent power brakes, the new "300" series engine still being made today with great aftermarket parts support, closed-center hydraulics, and two versions of power steering and both work great (open-center and closed center). Also had two live-PTO choices that were reliable, and a very low creeper gear for slow-moving ground work.

Compared to other make tractors of that time in that size range - the Deere 1020 was pretty easy to work on.

So, me and the other mechanics I worked with had few problems working on them - yet your mechanic friends had a terrible time? I wonder why?

In fact, why don't you tell us what tractor made in the late 1960s with 35-38 horsepower was much better? Also, please explain exactly why?
 
The biggest problem I run into on these little utilitys is when the wrong oil is used and the brakes go metal to metal and the get ran long enough to fill up with shaveings, this is near "death' to them. When they are good they are "great" when they are bad they are "very' bad.The inner pipes on the trans pump can be a problem and some of the componets are build a little light, In my opinion they are not built near as well as a Waterlou tractor, they have two different desighns,that's for sure...
 
I purchased a new 1020 diesel in 1968 sold it in 1986 and got smart enough to purchase another this spring. I think it was the greatest tractor for all around work ever built. Even though it is an older version, I am really enjoying it. Harley
 
We had 2 1020s on this farm when I was growing up. Great little tractors... my dad liked the first one so well he bought another
 
1020 was very popular here, along with 2020, 2030, 2630, etc. We own a 2940, had it since new. It has been an excellent tractor. It has done a lot of field work and currently is our feed grinding tractor.

Al
 
Start using them for full time farming and you will see how the durablilty holds up. I would rather have a 3020 or 4020 anyday. Apparently your definition of a pro is alot different then mine. Alot of people on this website confus the term of a good tractor. Sure if all you ever did with a tractor is hobby farm, cut wood,mow weeds, cut,rake,bale a few acres every year, then sure any tractor could handle that. Like I said, I know 3 mechanics who wont work on them any more. If they do they will charge more. Even the JD dealers have told me to stay away from them.Now I cant think of a 35Hp built in the mid 60s or late 60s, but I would rather have a 450 farmall. 55 hp live power and hydraulics. Simple to work on, tons of parts available. Very nimble. Fast hitch.Although built in the mid 50s Seen to many neighbors that bought 2010s and 2020s brand new and never had any luck with them. Now I understand you can have lemon or two in every crowd. Start farming with them, hauling manure everyday, plowing snow, field work. I am not talking some small 80 acres or something like that. Not grinding feed either. I mean hard work.
 
I worked as a mechanic for three Deere dealers and never once heard any of these so-called "dealer complaints" about Deere utility tractors. I'll add that when I went to Deere service school every winter, I met Deere mechanics from all over New York, New Jersey, and Vermont. If they had complaints, I'd heard them.

Were there a few bloopers along the way - sure. But in general, the Dubuque utily tractors are rock-solid and great tractors. 2940s had cold-starting problems. 2950s (early ones) had steel hydraulic pipe problems. 2355 and up with 4WD had many recalls on the front drive axles.

1020, 1030, 2020, 2030, 300 and 400 industrials, etc. ? No such problems.

As to farming? I'm IN a farming area and know many people with smaller Dubuque tractors and larger Waterloo. No big complaints with any when used for what they are meant for. My neighbor has been farming, full-time for many years with a 530, 620, 2020, 2520, 3020, and two 4020s. All bought new and all have been very rugged tractors. The one with the most trouble has been the 3020 gasser. All Dubque or Waterloo except the 2520, which is a Waterloo tractor with a Dubuque engine.

Some people want to sit high, some low - and some people like twin-stick a transmission while others want SyncrhoRange or Powershift. All hold up fine.

And, again . . . a 2010 has absolutely nothing to do with a 2020. You are comparing apples to oranges, at best.

Now, if you prefer other brands that are comtemporaneous -that's fine. But to claim the Deere utilty tractors are junk ?? That is pure, 100% hogwash based on NO facts. I wonder why the resale value is so high on them?
 
You are right Stuart,They are handy little tractors but I have seen some try to use them for the main power unit on medium size farms and it didn't work out. When I worked for Deere a couple of customers bought 2630's and 40's and tryed it,,it didn't work out, they ended up with 4240's and then got along fine. As for working on them, I don't enjoy them ether, but I do, I find the Waterlou tractors much more friendly to repair..
 
I can't help but wonder how "seasoned" this mechanic really was. JD wouldn't have had much of a tractor market in eastern NC if they hadn't had the 1020,2020, etc. I have never heard any mechanic, JD or otherwise, complain about working on them.

They did have their quirks, biggest issues were hydraulic leaks and they start lousy when cold. MF, Ford, and IH didn't have anything in the time period that could touch them though as far as features. And that is coming from an IH fan.

Al
 
Now wait a minute. You are putting words in my mouth, I did not say all Deere utility tractors are junk. Resale is high on anything with Deere green paint, same with peterbilt semis, chevy trucks, and CAT equipment. Paint something green and it will bring more money, regardless if it is a good product or not. There is a reason that dubuque tractor got the nickname "dubuque pukers" lol. I like the name. But in all seriousness, dubuque tractors didnt have the realiablity of the waterloo tractors or ease of working on them. I have had a few 2020s apart and they look cheaply built compared to other Deere products.
 
The 2940 I mentioned did heavy tillage most of it's life...12' disk, 4 row bedder, etc. Also ground feed and anything else that came along. It's never had a loader on it so I can't speak to that. Most of the smaller JD's in this area were the "main" tractor on smaller farms and did it all--from moldboard plowing to chore jobs. They set and cultivated a lot of tobacco around these parts.

We upgraded to a 4255 in '91 and the 2940 was used from then on mostly for planting and grinding feed. I do like the higher seat on the 4255, and the "feel" of the Waterloo design. But I have never seen anything from the small JD's that made me think they were not capable of heavy field work, day in and day out.

Not trying to argue. But coming from an IH man, JD had a pretty good thing going with these smaller tractors. Too bad they couldn't start any easier cold.... :/
Al
 
Yes, I know where your coming from,,I have a 1530 out back with "sick" hydraulics waiting to come into the shop,,,I'm dragging my feet on it :(
 
I haven't put "words" in your mouth. I'm going by the many general sweeping statements you've made - with little to no specifics to back any of them up.

This post DID start out asking about a small Deere utilty tractor - remember?? Not a 100 horse tractor being worked to the limit on a routine basis.

Best I can gather from your ancedotal statements is this . . .

#1 - farms are not farms if smaller then 80 acres

#2 - Dubuque tractors don't hold up doing "farming"

#3 - you say you're not bad-mouthing them, yet like the title of "dubuque pukers" and claim they are "total junk."

Your words . . . .

“I have had 3 mechanics who cut there teeth on those models that they were junk”

“Those tractors are harder than hell to work on. I thought of buying one but between the
mechanics and the 2 Deere dealers, they said they are pricey to work on. Same with the
2940,2950,2155 type tractors. Total junk. “

“Seen to many neighbors that bought 2010s and 2020s brand new and never had any luck
with them. “

“Start farming with them, hauling manure everyday, plowing snow, field work. I am not
talking some small 80 acres or something like that.”

I asked for specifics and you've haven't mentioned even one yet.

1020 is a small utilty tractor with a three-cylinder engine, pushing around 38 horse at the PTO. The gas engine in my little Oliver HG Cletrac is bigger then the gas engine in s 1020, so obviously the Deere was built for utility work - not pulling a montster set of chisel plows on hundreds of acres of fields. For those that were used for what they were intended for, they held up fine and many are still in full-time farm use. Not bad for a tractor design over 40 years old.

In regard to ease to work on them? I can fix a transmission, put in a new clutch, or rebuild an engine a bit faster then on any Waterloo tractor - except for maybe a 2510, 2520 or 4030 that use Dubuque engines.

And parts? Right now, if you wanted a used engine or aftermarket parts, they are easier to buy new and used for Dubuque tractors and 300 series engines.

The engine used in 1020 tractor was also used in power units, 350 crawlers, 380 forklifts, etc. Many of those engines around. If you've got a 3020 four-cylinder Waterloo engine with blown balancer-gear-box ?? Good luck. Maybe you'll get lucky and find a 500 Industrial somewhere that you can rob an engine out of.

On the other hand, if your four-cylinder Dubuque engine needed balancer shafts, they're now available aftermarket and cheap. That because the 300-series Deere engines are popular all over the world.

Now, if you want to compare the biggest Dubuques to Waterloos, I can see where you might have some legitimate argument. In a 90 horse machine being used heavy, I'd prefer a 4020 over a 2940. I know many though that have done so with 2940s or 2950s and the tractors held up fine.

But, now that you've found at least one person that seems to agree with your hyperbole, I guess you feel you've somehow proven your point without having to use any specific facts.
 
Its fun to watch people like you get so wound up over someones opinions. So If I dont have any facts, then why can I think of at least 12 of those tractors that never ended up being a good unit. As for a real farm, that is a farm that a man can run and not have supplemental income from a job, that is my definition of a farm.I never said that the engine was junk just other parts of that tractor. Again your putting words in my mouth. You seem to like doing that, not sure why. I am just telling you what other pros like you claim to be told me, reread my post and look for the facts. Your definition of hard farm work for a tractor isnt what should be.
 
Where are your facts, so they made alot of those engines, so what. They made a lot of ford 8ns to that doesnt mean that they were that great, sure they make aftermarket parts NOW, but for a few years you had to suck at mother deere to get anything. So that series of tractors held up in your area, doesnt mean they did all across the country. And I am making the general sweeping statements.
 
The 300-series Deere engine is still being made new and used in new equipment. So it's a 44 plus year-old design that still works.

Dubuque twin-stick trans is also still being used, another design that proved itself over time and many years. How many Waterloo SynchroRange or 8 speed Powershifts are still being made new?

I doubt your'e going to find anybody making Ford flathead 8N gas engines new and trying to use them in anything. If so, please post.

The only other basic 40-50 year-old tractor platform that I'm aware of that is still being used in new tractors and sold in the USA is by Mahindra - built on some 50 year-old International Harvester platforms that started with the B-275 and B-414 series.

Might be others out there, but those are the ones I know about.
 
Ignore Stuart below. He does not like the Mannheim utility tractors. The 1020s where built in Dubuque,Iowa and Mannheim Germany. They where mainly designed in Mannheim. They where built 65-73.

The things to watch for are the hydraulics. If they have been abused then it can be pricey to repair the damage. Start the tractor and let it run a minute to warm up. Then at an idle lower the three point arms all of the way. Then move the lift lever up all of the way fast. IF the lift raises smooth and quiet then it should be fine. If it raises slow and chatters then it could have internal problems.

The rack and pinion axles was just an option. It did cost more so you see fewer tractors with it. The gas models I would stay away from.

The diesel you found should be worth that $4500-6500 if in good shape.
I service one here every year. It has 13000 hours on it. I have all of the proof meters for it. It is used on a dairy farm just down the road. It scrapes the yards everyday and used to run the square baler/hay rake for many years. It has every bit of sheet metal beat up on it and the manure is so thick weeds grow on it in the spring. It has had three starters, overhauled once, and one brake job. Not bad for a everyday tractor that is forty years old this year.
 
(quoted from post at 10:10:48 11/29/10) Same with the 2940,2950,2155 type tractors. Total junk.

Stuart
I'm with JDemaris on this someone has misled you. 55 series JD's including the 2155 are some of the best tractor models JD ever put their name on.
 
(quoted from post at 02:29:55 11/30/10) Ignore Stuart below. He does not like the Mannheim utility tractors. The 1020s where built in Dubuque,Iowa and Mannheim Germany. They where mainly designed in Mannheim. They where built 65-73. .

I think no 1020's were ever built in Mannheim. I'm unaware that they were designed there either. I never saw a 1020 SN plate that had built in Mannheim on it. On the other hand yes 820 3cyl's were built in Mannheim with open-center hyd's
 
I've seen several 1020s that were built in Germany. 1020s were sold all over Europe and had different fuel injection systems then the USA versions. Robert Bosch or Rotodiesel. I also saw a 1020 being used in Canada that had a Mexico tag on it.

We also sold some 830s new that had the European Rotodiesel injection pumps. I'm not sure how that was allowed, since Rotodiesel was built under license from Stanadyne and not supposed to compete in the USA.
 
The 50s and 55s were excellent, good starting, and clean running. We turned up the injection on several and many made more power and no smoke - which was kind of amazing (as compared to the 40 series).

My ONLY complaint with the 55 series is the huge screw-up Deere made with ALL the early 4WD tractors we sold. Everyone one of them had the wrong gears driving the front-axle. We had to tear apart every new 55 4WD series we sold, up to a certain serial #. It was close to a two-day job with some of them that had cabs, AC, etc.

Deere here in the USA, blamed the whole mess on factories in Germany.
 
(quoted from post at 11:13:58 11/30/10) I've seen several 1020s that were built in Germany. 1020s were sold all over Europe and had different fuel injection systems then the USA versions.

I stand corrected although I've never seen one. I should have looked to see if there's a parts cat for a 1020 built for overseas and there is.

4152 - 1020, 1120 Tractors - 16Mar06 ( FR DE IT ES SV )
 
You mentioned odd ball hydraulics on the German 820 and 830. I have an 820 and plan to install a FEL if i can figure out how to plumb it. Would you know where I can find a hydraulic schematic for this tractor?
 
(quoted from post at 23:32:37 12/01/10) You mentioned odd ball hydraulics on the German 820 and 830. I have an 820 and plan to install a FEL if i can figure out how to plumb it. Would you know where I can find a hydraulic schematic for this tractor?

There where,why and how to connect has been previously stated here 47 times.
All that is required is a ported filter cover and a high pressure line "T".
 
(quoted from post at 00:44:26 12/02/10)
(quoted from post at 23:32:37 12/01/10) You mentioned odd ball hydraulics on the German 820 and 830. I have an 820 and plan to install a FEL if i can figure out how to plumb it. Would you know where I can find a hydraulic schematic for this tractor?

There where,why and how to connect has been previously stated here 47 times.
All that is required is a ported filter cover and a high pressure line"T".

B&d
Hold on now. The 820 3cyl is an open-center hyd system and a loader valve must be open-center and plumbed in to let oil flow back through the original hyd valves instead of to a ported filter cover.
 
(quoted from post at 23:32:37 12/01/10) Would you know where I can find a hydraulic schematic for this tractor?

JD tech manual # 4212 or 4212CD will have the hyd schematics or you could check with your local JD service manager.
 
(quoted from post at 13:26:05 12/02/10)
(quoted from post at 00:44:26 12/02/10)
(quoted from post at 23:32:37 12/01/10) You mentioned odd ball hydraulics on the German 820 and 830. I have an 820 and plan to install a FEL if i can figure out how to plumb it. Would you know where I can find a hydraulic schematic for this tractor?

There where,why and how to connect has been previously stated here 47 times.
All that is required is a ported filter cover and a high pressure line"T".

B&d
Hold on now. The 820 3cyl is an open-center hyd system and a loader valve must be open-center and plumbed in to let oil flow back through the original hyd valves instead of to a ported filter cover.

O.K. guys . . . who's right? Do I tee and return through the filter - or do I cut the tractor line, re-route the oil flow out through the loader valve and back to the rockshaft?
 
(quoted from post at 08:26:05 12/02/10)
(quoted from post at 00:44:26 12/02/10)
(quoted from post at 23:32:37 12/01/10) You mentioned odd ball hydraulics on the German 820 and 830. I have an 820 and plan to install a FEL if i can figure out how to plumb it. Would you know where I can find a hydraulic schematic for this tractor?

There where,why and how to connect has been previously stated here 47 times.
All that is required is a ported filter cover and a high pressure line"T".

B&d
Hold on now. The 820 3cyl is an open-center hyd system and a loader valve must be open-center and plumbed in to let oil flow back through the original hyd valves instead of to a ported filter cover.

Thanks Jim, Good catch.
I was thinking 1020 and didn't pickup that dude jumped in with a change of tractor models.
Only the very late 830's were built with closed center hydraulics.

According to the parts book the Mannheim tractors have the largest factory installed pump?



Dubuque 970 - 1020 Tractor , small and smaller pump

HYDRAULIC PUMP - 23 CM3 (1.38 IN.3)™BR>(POWER STEERING - TRACTOR SERIAL NO. 045200- )™BR>HYDRAULIC PUMP - 23 CM3 (1.38 IN.3) - CONTINUED™BR>(POWER STEERING - TRACTOR SERIAL NO. 045200- )
AR39019 HYDRAULIC PUMP 1 - 077953 (SUB AR103033)
.. AR39168 HYDRAULIC PUMP 1 077954 - (SUB FOR AR39019) (SUB AR103033)


Mannheim 4152 - 1020, 1120 Tractor-HYDRAULIC PUMP (1.38 CUBIC INCH),(11,3CM3) and (22,6CM3)
 
(quoted from post at 16:32:36 12/02/10) O.K. guys . . . who's right? Do I tee and return through the filter - or do I cut the tractor line, re-route the oil flow out through the loader valve and back to the rockshaft?

I was unaware that the 830 utility tractors built for European sales were closed-center. I'm aware 830 utilities built for North American sales are open-center hyds.

So Jim58 you need to determine which model 830 you have for anyone to correctly answer your question.

I mounted loaders on open-center hyd 820,830 & early 2040's utilities and never cut a line but plumbed into hyd lines on RH side.
 
My tractor is Type 820 T4HDC s/n 099326L which I believe was built in '73. The engine was made in France.
 

IIRC all JD Mannheim utility tractors engines were built in France. Your tractor is open-center hyd's which requires an ind open-center valve and doesn't require routing return to a ported filter cover.
 

IIRC all JD Mannheim utility tractors engines were built in France. The SN tag on RH frame above frt axle should state country of origin. Your tractor is open-center hyd's which requires an ind open-center valve and doesn't require routing return to a ported filter cover.
 
I hate to stir up something that may be settled but I cannot sit and be silent when a wonderful little tractor that I spent hundreds of hours on is bad mouthed. We bought a 2030 in the mid 70s and it was used hard for farming for over 15 years. We farmed 2500 acres in northern ND and that 2030 was our rock picking tractor. Now some may consider that light work but I can assure if was far from it. Our land was quite stony and for every engine hour we put on the cultivator tractor we put 1.5 on the 2030. And what hard working hours they were! I don't know how many here have ever had to hook up to a rock picker, but those that have can attest that this can be some of the most punishing work that you can put a tractor through. Whether you are using the loader or the bucket on the rock picker dig or pry boulders out of heavy sticky soil, it is a jarring, brutal use of a tractor. Or try pulling a load of about a ton of rock across soft plowed ground or wet muddy ground as you make your way to a rock pile to dump your load. Picking rock requires that you start, stop, back up, turn around, start again, turn, and so on and so on ad nausium, day after day after day. Naturally this puts more wear on the tractor that simply pulling a steady load for hours on end.

This little tractor also was the power source for our PTO driven augar and moved hundreds of thousands of bushels of grain. It also cleared the yard of snow every winter, hauled hay to our horses, cultivated small plots of land, and a host of other jobs around the farm. It did all this and all we had to do to it was fuel it up, change the fluids and occaisionally put o-rings in the hydraulic blocks. It was a faithful, dependable tractor that served us for many years and after my Dad died we sold it to a another farmer and it is still serving him faithfully as well.
 
You're right Jim, my 820 was build in Germany and has a French engine. I don't understand what you mean when you refer to "ind open-center valve".
My tractor doesn't [u:b08c3aa780]have any valve[/u:b08c3aa780] or quick connectors. What valve do I need and where would I find one?
 

I meant independent hyd 2-spool valve to operate the loader. It must be a open-center type or you can damage the hyd pump. It needs to be plumbed into fittings on RH side of tractor.
 
OK Jim, I have verified that the operating valve on the Bison loader is open center. Now, just [b:688de2c860]where[/b:688de2c860] on the RH side of my JD 820 do I connect the two hoses from the loader? There are no visible ports or quick connectors. What am I missing here?
 
(quoted from post at 17:46:37 12/07/10) There are no visible ports or quick connectors. What am I missing here?

It's been a long time since I installed a loader on a 820/830 open center. I'll have to do so research as the open center 3 cyl loader hookup is unique to them. There should be a pressure relief valve & dump valve on RH side by the rockshaft control lever, The loader valves must be hooked up where it is in series with the original hyd's which means it can't have return oil going to sump.

I suppose your tractor isn't equipped with a SCV's(remote hyd valve)?
 

Research is done. I tried to download the photo of the schematic from the parts cat #1383 for a 145 loader on JDparts.com but I'm lacking the computer skills. It's under hyd section #27 under the sectional index. It shows attachment places and gives hyd fitting numbers.HIH's
 

After more research I discovered that there's a return hose to sump that goes into the top rear of trans housing.

Open center requires 3 hoses instead of the normal 2 hoses.
 
Success at last! There is a tubing running from the Selector valve down to the Dump valve. I removed this, connect my pressure hose to the Selector valve fitting and the return hose to the Dump valve fitting and everything worked the first time. Thanks for all your help.
 
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