Temp Gauge Inop?

[VFMerc]

While idling my Farmall H after replacing the radiator, the engine temperature gauge began rising normally then stabilized in the normal operating range for a few minutes. Just prior to shutdown, after confirming no leaks, I observed the needle fall back to the cold peg. I ran the engine for about five minutes today. The engine idled normally and although the manifold warmed up the engine temp gauge never came off the cold peg. A look inside the radiator seemed to indicate normal coolant circulation.

Would appreciate a recommendation on the best sequence of steps to trouble shoot the system. Thanks in advance.

 

[Jim.ME]

As I posted in your original thread about this.

Your H should have a mechanical temp gauge I believe. Five minutes is a bit short of a time to make a judgement on during engine warm up. You should watch it longer and under load, not just idling.

If you have a temp gun, check the temp where the probe goes into the engine and see if it matches the gauge reading. The other option is to remove the probe from the engine and suspend it in a pan of water and with another thermometer it the water heat it up watching to see if the two thermometers hold about the same reading as the water is heated.

If it is a mechanical gauge, you run a 50/50 chance of damaging the tube removing the probe from the block (at least that has been my luck). I would by a new gauge and install it as the probe, capillary tube, and gauge are sealed together, it is not an electric gauge with a separate sender, unless it was changed from original.

 

[560Dennis]

Suggest ,I take the cap off ( carefully don’t get burnt) and put thermometer in the radiator coolent to see what temperature is there . If the thermo stat is missing or stuck open I’d replace it with new . The engine needs to come up to operate temperature to run efficiently and not build oil sludge in crankcase.
Check belts tension is correct,just part of t he service.

 

[300guy]

I've never seen an H temperature ever go above cold unless the radiator is blocked off. Runnning in the cold range is as far as I am concerned normal.

 

[farmhand]

I've never seen an H temperature ever go above cold unless the radiator is blocked off. Runnning in the cold range is as far as I am concerned normal.

You have to work my H hard with an 8ft disk in hot weather to get it in the middle of the run range. It does have a thermostat in also.

 

[Powered By IH]

That's why I recommend putting a plastic bag or something of the like over the grille when just putzing around.
It will restrict the airflow and allow the tractor to warm up more, therefore reducing engine wear and oil breakdown.
Radiator shutters work too, if you can find one that is usable.

 

[SadFarmall]

My H has the kerosene shutters on the radiator, so it's easy to keep it in the RUN range.
If you are not certain the gauge is still working, remove and put the bulb in a pan of cold water. Heat the water and see if the needle moves. If you want to check for accurate operation, put a thermometer in the water as well. Gauge needle should reach HOT as the water begins to boil.
SadFarmall

 

[the tractior vet]

I've never seen an H temperature ever go above cold unless the radiator is blocked off. Runnning in the cold range is as far as I am concerned normal.

To get them to MOVE ya need to be working them not just puttsen around the yard . What we use to go thru to get the old 450 Diesels warmed up at the tractor pulls to get the most out of them ya had to cover the rad up with a feed sack and run them around half throttle for a half hour before ya made your pull and someone would have to remove it after ya hooked . With the way we had the go juice pouring to it ya needed all the heat ya could get to burn what you were feeding it . With any of the tractors the temp gauge never moved off the peg while you were raking hay of just pulling wagons . It MIGHT come up a little while planting or baling . BUT when ya dropped the plow then they would come up.