Temp Loose Hub Fix

[Tall T]

A temp fix until I pick up a new hub in Washington, so I can move the Jube and do a little cultivating, move some steel recyclables around.

I cut a slice off the perfect sized pipe and welded it to a larger heavy washer with the same ID as the ford washer.

I may have to grind my washer extension shallower because the first three or 4 threads on my axle don't count for much. But the nut goes on as much as the left rear does. I'm going to tap the appropriate holes in the nut so I can screw a long screw in and then twist a wire around the nut groove to keep the screw from backing out.
Actually a #6 screw cranks in tightly as is.

Anyway . . . wish me luck.

This washer extension would be good to keep in case I encounter the same problem again.

Terry

 

[Lynn Patrick]

I had a loose one a couple years ago & cut pieces of a clock spring & laid them in the spline to keep going until fixed right. Worked quite well!

 

[Tall T]

Lynn,

That's a good idea!
If I do that now I'll really have to make my extension shallower
cause the hub won't squeeze on as far as it does now. but it seems that the slop is now negligible when the hub is forced further inward. Having the heavy wheel on will tell the tale I guess.

there's a limit as to how far in the brake drum will sit without interfering with the shoe action, so I'm keeping an eye on that too.

Thanks,
T

 

[John in Mich]

We (me too) do things to keep going. I've been there with loose axle spline and wobbly hub. So to get
tight spline the hub is pushed further onto the spline and a spacer fills the gap. Question: where is
the backside of the hub? Also, the brake drum is fastened to the hub but the brake baking plate is
fastened to the axle trumpet. Your fix is pushing the drum against the side of the brake shoes. Shoes
removed? What about the axle oil seals? Delayed repair may be getting a lot more expensive.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Zane posted a fix using steel banding strips like you see used to strap down stuff on a pallet...

I did brakes and seals on one of my N's using his trick tho it was aggravating its still going... The last time I looked I had put 50 hr. on it how long it holds up I dunno I have not ran it in several years...

It is a cheap low budget repair thanks Zane...

 

[Tall T]

John,

You wrote:
[color=darkblue:ffa344a071] So to get tight spline the hub is pushed further onto the spline and a spacer fills the gap. Question: where is
the backside of the hub? Also, the brake drum is fastened to the hub but the brake baking plate is
fastened to the axle trumpet. Your fix is pushing the drum against the side of the brake shoes.[/color:ffa344a071]

The edge of the drum travels past the backing plate so that creates a little leeway , , , no wonder the drum lets so much dirt in compared to GM where the backing plate folds over the drum.
As I said above, I'm aware of the diminishing clearance as the drum approaches the edges of the shoes.

[color=darkblue:ffa344a071]Shoes removed?[/color:ffa344a071]

Why would I do that?

[color=darkblue:ffa344a071]What about the axle oil seals? Delayed repair may be getting a lot more expensive.[/color:ffa344a071]

There isn't a trace of lube leakage so first things first. When I put a new hub on I will have made everything easily removable in the future, so If I get seal leakage after the fact, I'll deal with it. I know what you mean though; put new shoes in and get gear lube on them.. My left rear seal is leaking so I'll be picking up seals and shoes for both sides.

This is strictly temporary because I don't want to damage my axle splines with a worn hub. A neighbor just asked me yesterday to brush cut his small field for $125. but i won't be doing anything like that before I get a new hub.

I'll slip the drum on tomorrow and if the edges of the shoes are dragging on the inside edge of the drum, or the drum is rubbing on the backing plate, I'll try the shimmed splines approach so the hub doesn't go in so far before its tight.

Something tells me this hub has been worn for a long time, because on the left rear the nut is almost flush with the end of the axle but the hub is tight. On this sloppy side there was 1/4" of exposed and weathered axle thread.

thanks,
Terry

 

[Tall T]

Hobo,

Interesting . . .
Maybe old hacksaw blades ground to fit
where even the teeth out toward and against the hub would be an advantage. (?)
I'll have to root around my shop and mull over the possibilities.

One thing for sure, I'm going to periodically check my axle nuts to see if they'll take a pound or two more, and also shake the tractor side to side as a matter of routine.

Always nice to discover these things before killing myself on the beast. . . which I almost did in January. It's a hair raising tale
I might tell one day.

T

 

[John in Mich]

Hey Terry,
Not trying to sound critical, only that I have been in similar situation and encountered parts
interference. I expect that you will need a new axle shaft along with a new hub and associated parts.
Also a new axle nut and the locking ring. Again, BTDT. Regards and best of luck.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 09:57:49 05/22/19) Hey Terry,
Not trying to sound critical, only that I have been in similar situation and encountered parts
interference. I expect that you will need a new axle shaft along with a new hub and associated parts.
Also a new axle nut and the locking ring. Again, BTDT. Regards and best of luck.

xpect that first two items of interference will be back of lug bolts and brake assy and the center of hub into contact with the bearing retainer (have seen these severely worn/ground away).

 

[Tall T]

(quoted from post at 06:57:49 05/22/19) Hey Terry,
Not trying to sound critical, only that I have been in similar situation and encountered parts
interference. I expect that you will need a new axle shaft along with a new hub and associated parts.
Also a new axle nut and the locking ring. Again, BTDT. Regards and best of luck.

Hi John,

Thanks for the words of experience.
don't mind me . . . I'll move forward with caution and will definitely be replacing parts.
You might have missed my first loose hub post where closeups of the axle show it to apparently be still serviceable; i.e., only the hub badly worn.

Cheers,
Terry

 

[Tall T]

I'll keep an eye out for brake assembly and seal contact.

The hub is not actually as deep on as my washer extension makes it appear to be. I erred on the side of two thick when I was cutting the rings.
It's way taller than it needs to be. The slop initially when I rocked the wheel, was only about the thickness of 16 gauge steel.

If the hub is not on too deep, I might take down my washer collar just so my nut gets the best of the axle thread.

Thanks,
Terry

 

[Tall T]

Well I used my trusty Shopmate to make my washer extension shallower so that my axle nut go further on to utilize the maximum healthy threads.

for the keeper, I hammered a length of 1/8 rod through the nut and into the axle groove. Then I heated it red and made a right angled bend and worked it all the way around in the nut groove and brazed the end of it to the beginning.

The drum actually drifts inward less that the left rear drum according to how much extends beyond the backing plate.

Thanks for the help,
T

 

[Tall T]

[/quote]

JMOR,

Sorry, a while back I said I'd keep an eye on seal contact, which was dopey.

About the center of the hub contact . . .
that could very well be the light rubbing sound
that I'm hearing even after backing the shoes way off!
Whatever is dragging, I could still spin the drum with the wheel off but could only get one revolution out of it.

So I drove it up the hill and back down to make sure the shoes were seated. I'll jack it up tomorrow and roll the tire.

But something tells me you nailed it with the bearing retainer contact.
Better rush the '51 Chev so I can do a sleep-over-tractor-parts- holiday, Thirty miles from Port Townsend..


T

P.S.
When the hub was loose before I discovered it, the tilt out of the wheel rounded off the outside edge of the upper shoe, so I'm thinking that now the shoe's metal edge is barely touching the inside shoulder of the shoe surface. The dragging sound is intermittent, whereas if the hub was contacting the bearing retainer, they would make a very uniform rubbing sound.