Temp on Super H

[Crookedwrench]

New to me stage 1 Super H shows far to the right in the?green/run? zone on a new gauge from Steiners. Tractor does not seem to be too hot. No steam, no overflow. What temperature should the thermostat hold on the tractor? Might loosen radiator cap and check with cooking thermometer or would the heat sensor gun be useful? Radiator was off and rinsed out in great shape to replace timing gear cover recently Thanks for suggestions. Don

 

[rustred]

needle should be pointing at the U in RUN. when working.

 

[fastfarmall]

Either would work, but if your going to use a thermal temp gun,i would take the cap off,and hit the coolant, but maybe you were going to do that anyways! But i wouldn't want that gauge either if it show's over on the green,never seen a IHC that hot on the average. 180 would be fine!!

 

[David G]

DO those have the big bypass like the H?

 

[Janicholson]

Checking the temp with a known good device is needed. Test the device with boiling water on the stove. Don't take the cap off at 180+ degrees, you will be in hot coolant. With the cap off, and a candy thermometer, or with an infrared gun, watch both as it comes up to temp. a super H has the same excessive Bypass as the others. When they were born, the thinking was to keep them cool. The thermostat was useful only for extended near full load in the summer. We know now that an engine is best when at 180 to 190 degrees, clearly more efficient. Jim

 

[FBH44]

On my 1950 H I worried about low temperature, installed new thermostats, etc., and had no results until I bought radiator shutters at an RPRU, installed them, and cranked down the air flow. The old girl warms right up now. Fixed.

 

[Crookedwrench]

Stole my wife?s candy thermometer! Fluid levels were OK. Covered the grill and let the H warm up. At midway of the green it was 180*. To the right of the N it was reading 195* With a clean straight radiator where do I go from here? It appears the new gauge is reasonably accurate. Long distance tractor drives and hayrides are on the horizon. Run it at 195-200* or not? Thanks to all. Don

 

[Rex Simpkins]

Every H or M or Super I have ever had I needed to work the clear living snot out of it on a hot day to get it to the first leg of the R in RUN

 

[Crookedwrench]

I have no history on the tractor, but I am now of the opinion that it has a 195* thermostat and my gauge is reasonably accurate. Thanks to all! Don

 

[504]

Every pound of pressure lowers the boiling point 7 degrees,the top of your cap will be stamped with PSI for your tractor. Start with your numbers, subtract the -boiling psi, and you will see that you are not close to bolling the radiator.(Your modern car runs around 225,240 without bolling.)

 

[Mac AR]

Yea, no kidding. I worked my 300 pert near all weekend ripping, plowing and disking. Needle never once got past the "R". Baled hay two solid days in August and it never went past there either. I've even run it in winter with a heater cab and a feed sack over the grille and it won't get hot!

Mac

 

[pete 23]

I would be willing to bet someone had installed an incorrect automotive style thermostat. IH even listed them as replacement for original style but soon sent out letters to dealers to return any stock and any installed should be removed because they made the by pass inoperative thus disrupting proper flow through block and head.

Never saw a correct thermostat on H or M etc, that would warm up to that temp without a load. Most of them allow coolant to bypass the thermostat and circulate through radiator when thermostat is still closed due to clearance around the tube. On the diesel tractors (at least later ones like 450 etc) there was a seal in the housing that eleminated that problem. I had housing machined to accept a seal but not all housings have enough material to do that. Can't remember the model of tractor I did that on.