test an oil pump - how?

McNugget

Member
Location
Lincoln, NE
1946 Ford 2N, eternal rebuild...

How can one confirm that the oil pump is primed and working as needed? What kind of pressure should build when trying to start (plugs removed, like a compression test)?

Long, nearly 8 year old story:

I"m putting together my 2N the second time. The first time a head stud pulled out of the block as an insert failed. Block had been forge welded to repair a freeze crack. Good news: I didn"t freeze the block. Bad news: I bought it with a cracked block. Anyway, I found the failed stud location when re-torquing after a short run up to temperature. Water started pooling on the head and it basically killed the joy of getting everything up and running. Tear it down, new insert, build it back up (a year long process...). Today I caught that the cam thrust washer (8N6276) and mating cover (timing cover, 9N6019) had severe wear. Oil pressure had been low, ~15lbs, though I blamed it on the braided, not steel, line leading up to the gauge. Now I"m thinking the oil pressure never pushed the spring poppet open and the timing gears hadn"t been getting lubricated. Actually, I know the timing gears were not getting lubricated as I have the evidence sitting on the bench. I also noticed the oil filter hadn"t completely filled, so the line to the governor was dry.

The machine shop had rebuilt the oil pump (reamed the bushing, pressed it together). I packed it with grease and then primed it with oil. Cranked with the gauge disconnected and found a puddle of oil on the floor. I thought that was confirmation of the pump pumping. Pick-up tube is solid, no leaks. Bearings fit and Plastic Gage confirmed the bearings were tight. Wires down all the galleys, so all galleys clear. Did not spin any bearings, so there must have been some pressure, but not enough.

Anybody looking for a basket case? Lots of good parts... I"m kind of tired.
 
(quoted from post at 22:57:50 08/11/10) 1946 Ford 2N, eternal rebuild...

How can one confirm that the oil pump is primed and working as needed? What kind of pressure should build when trying to start (plugs removed, like a compression test)?

Long, nearly 8 year old story:

I"m putting together my 2N the second time. The first time a head stud pulled out of the block as an insert failed. Block had been forge welded to repair a freeze crack. Good news: I didn"t freeze the block. Bad news: I bought it with a cracked block. Anyway, I found the failed stud location when re-torquing after a short run up to temperature. Water started pooling on the head and it basically killed the joy of getting everything up and running. Tear it down, new insert, build it back up (a year long process...). Today I caught that the cam thrust washer (8N6276) and mating cover (timing cover, 9N6019) had severe wear. Oil pressure had been low, ~15lbs, though I blamed it on the braided, not steel, line leading up to the gauge. Now I"m thinking the oil pressure never pushed the spring poppet open and the timing gears hadn"t been getting lubricated. Actually, I know the timing gears were not getting lubricated as I have the evidence sitting on the bench. I also noticed the oil filter hadn"t completely filled, so the line to the governor was dry.

The machine shop had rebuilt the oil pump (reamed the bushing, pressed it together). I packed it with grease and then primed it with oil. Cranked with the gauge disconnected and found a puddle of oil on the floor. I thought that was confirmation of the pump pumping. Pick-up tube is solid, no leaks. Bearings fit and Plastic Gage confirmed the bearings were tight. Wires down all the galleys, so all galleys clear. Did not spin any bearings, so there must have been some pressure, but not enough.

Anybody looking for a basket case? Lots of good parts... I"m kind of tired.
he plunger does not need to be pushed off its seat in order to oil the timing gears, as the plunger has a flat spot on the area contacting the seat.......this allows a small dribble/leak onto the gears all the time. I would verify the proper width gears in the re-built oil pump...there have been 2 different widths & if the narrow gears were to be installed in a pump housing requiring the wider gears, expect little to no pumping.
 
Nope - it"s got the right gears (9/16"). 3/4" gears wouldn"t fit anyway. Maybe the clearance around the gears is too large?

This is a 1946 2N block, so will the oil pump with 3/4" gears fit? ~33% increase in pump displacement, which seems like a good idea if one is investing in a new pump and the line bore to get it done.

When I get back to it I am going to look for a casting crack along the oil passages and check the cam bearing clearance.
 
(quoted from post at 13:02:54 08/13/10) Nope - it"s got the right gears (9/16"). 3/4" gears wouldn"t fit anyway. Maybe the clearance around the gears is too large?

This is a 1946 2N block, so will the oil pump with 3/4" gears fit? ~33% increase in pump displacement, which seems like a good idea if one is investing in a new pump and the line bore to get it done.

When I get back to it I am going to look for a casting crack along the oil passages and check the cam bearing clearance.
heck that these plugs are in place. Rear missing would show obvious leak into bell housing & out on floor, but front, not so obvious as oil runs back into pan.
OIL_gallery_plugs.jpg
 
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