Test Results for Cylinder Pitting Thread

Texasmark

Well-known Member
Boy this forum moves fast. On my question about cylinder pitting a day or so ago, a guy by the handle of "guido" said that I should check my coolant's voltage. Said that 0.3v was the max you should read.

Ok. So now we are talking about electrolysis as the/a culprit for this and I can easily understand that. If you have had anything to do with the marine environment and notice those unpainted gray looking things attached to outboard motors they are Zinc sacrificial elements which are supposed to dissolve to satisfy the electrolysis of the system rather than important parts of your engine.

So, electrolysis can easily be the mechanism that attacks your cylinders and the comments I received on Ion Filters on OTR truck engines that easily run 1 million miles in their lives supports this as a prime culprit.

So I just measured every engine on the place with water cooling (opps I just remembered I missed my hay truck). The tractors date from '63 to '07 with varying pedigree's with respect to overhaul, coolant changes, antifreeze mix, after market additives and all that stuff. None have ion filters. Will just show you the range of readings, not the unit specifically except for the '07 tractor, and the two pickups, one an '05 at 15,000 easy miles and an '07 with 5,000 easy miles.

Measurement was made at a temp of 70F, humidity around 80%, 800 ft altitude, and pressure of 30+ and rising. Meter (high impedance input, digital display) was on dc 2v scale. All coolants were at room temp, and except for the pickups all connections were from the metal radiator flange (where the cap installs) to the fluid just inside. Engines were all off. All had 50/50 or no less than 25/75 and anti freeze was regular EG except for pickups which had the pink high mileage stuff with factory fill. Pickups had to be measured to the alternator case on the engine as the radiator cap was plastic.

Numbers were 0.158 dcV, 0.082 (new tractor), 0.240, 0.227, 0.177, 0.187 ('07 P/U), and 0.255 ('05 P/U).

Looks like I am good to go on all units. The 2 year old P/U looks like will be ready for new freeze soon. I may just dump a $3 botle of JD conditioner in it, run it awhile and retest, just to see what happens.

Well this has certainly helped me get a handle on things and hope it helps some of you too.

Mark
 
Humm ? Did you read any without a battery in them ? Wonder if there is anyway they could get voltage without a battery ? I have a bunch of old tractors sitting without any batteries in them. I'll have to pick up one of those fancy digital voltmeters and try it sometime.
 
You might have something there but all meters are off a little.10% easy.There may be other things that cause the problem such as high flow of water,material the block is made out of,and other things.
 
I think you're overthinking this. I just change the coolant every 3 or 4 years or whenever I have to open the cooling system for some reason. When I fill it I dump a bottle of DCA4 in then and again in a couple years time. No tests, no nothing. No trouble yet. Mabey that's a big YET, but so far, so good.
The original thread as I recall related to Ford parent bore blocks over on the Ford board. Ford's problem had nothing to do with electrolosis. It was a well documented problem with cavitation, well known to Ford... and one that resulted in a fairly major redesign of their blocks in 1983. If you want more information on that subject then contact an authorized NewHolland dealer and have them pull a service bulletin from PAL regarding that issue and their recomended corrective action.

Rod
 
Dissimilar metals bathed in an electrolyte IS a battery. In the case of an engine, the coolant is the electrolyte.
Yes it is very weak, but its still there.
 
Beins most of the readings were right in the top of the radiator with the cap removed and the connections were between the metal radiator shell and the contents, I really doubt that the battery had anything to do with it.

Why? Because for it to do anything you have to have a current path and when you think about it not much of a path where I described. Kinda like a thermocouple thing which measures temp. If you put two (specific) dissimilar metals together they cause a current to flow. Nothing but two wires soldered/welded together. Then when you heat or cool this junction, the voltage drop changes and hence you have a Type K (for one) thermocouple used for determining temperature. Rocket science man. Geez I"m glad I am through with that stuff!!!!!

Mark
 
No flow engine was off and I have tested this particular meter. No 10% with this sucker....maybe 0.01%.

Mark
 
Well, it's bigger than that. The Ford blog just happened to be what triggered me to thinking about potential problems I may have. Remember, I'm the guy who had the 1 million mile Cummins in an 18 wheeler that had a coolant filter and no other piece of equipment on my place has one. I am a retired engineer and for us folks, S,,,, doesn't happen, it's caused, called a failure mechanism. Our job is to understand the mechanism and dismantle it. Sorry but it gets in the blood and hard to get out.

Mark
 
many things nake a battery. take a potato and apiece of copper wire and a nail stick them into the potato put your meter on them see what you get try any fruit and vegatables even the cloride in the tires will read some volts
old art
 
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