Testing generator & regulator

So, my ford 2000 has its battery light on. It has been running terrible so I just parked it for a tune up. When the tractor is running at a medium engine speed my voltmeter reads 12.1 at the battery. I dont know alot about generators, I do know that if it had an alternator it should read 14.4 or so. I read that while the engine is running I should ground the field side of the generator at test the battery side and see what the output is. Should that just read 12v or more like an alternator?
 
12.1 essentially means that it's not charging at all. It should be high 13s, low 14s if it's charging, regardless of whether it's an alternator or generator being used.

To differentiate between a generator or regulator problem, disconnect the field wire at the generator and use a jumper wire to send battery 12 volt hot to the field terminal on the generator. If voltage at the battery starts to rise and head towards 14, your generator is charging and you have a regulator or wiring issue. If the voltage does not rise, you likely have a faulty generator.
 
Thanks, I will do some testing in a few days. I have 2 other rigs to work on before I get back to the ford. It's the race before winter!
 
Always start with testing the battery at a shop with their test machine under load for specific gravity. Don't assume. Don't simply apply a trickle charger. A weak or dead battery cannot fix a poor battery. How old is it? How long does it set during downtimes? Do you use a quality float charger like the DELTRAN unit during tractor idle time? Testing the battery is the first and simplest item you can test.

You need a strong battery to:

1. Spin the starter
2. Engage the Bendix
3. Provide voltage to the coil.

Tips on battery care and performance:
As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition. It doesn't really matter much if the battery is "fully charged" until you test it correctly. 4 Volts is an almost dead unit. Bench test under load and specific gravity must be tested. Your trusty local starter/alternator shop can bench test it on their special machine, usually at no charge –no pun intended. No matter what else you do, the battery must be fully charged. Cheap brands are prone to poor lifespans. The TSC and Wally World ones are the worst. 7 years is a good run for a 6V battery. Briefly in a nutshell, you want a GP-1 6V (12V = GRP 25 or GRP 35) AG battery -no Deep Cycle or RV/Golf Cart types. I suggest you invest in one of the better brands. Those would be DEKA, INTERSTATE, EAST PENN/DURACELL, or EXIDE. I'm not sure who makes the NAPA one but I've heard good things about it. Get at least a 550-750 CCA with the average cost at about $125.
A fully charged 6v battery should read about 6.3 - 6.6 volts. In order to get that charge level, your v/r must allow 7.2 volts to the battery. Specific gravity should be 1.24 - 1.28 on each cell. A hydrometer is used but your shop has the machine to test under load. Battery cables are important too. 6V cables are thick as your thumb due to current used and the ground is a braided flat strap. SEE DENNIS CARPENTER or nnalert. Clean all the grounds & the battery posts. 6V mantra: Clean, bright, and tight.

A float charger is VERY helpful; and NOT a trickle charger, but a float charger, like the DELTRAN Battery Tender Jr.® ™. It is a popular brand, available at Walmart, $30. A battery charger, even a "trickle" charger, left unattended will eventually boil out a battery. Connect the battery Tender to your battery when the tractor is idle for periods over a week. Constant Draining/Depleting and recharging the battery is the quickest way to ruin it. 12V and dual versions are also available.

BATTERY TENDER JR (6V) BY DELTRAN:
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Tim Daley(MI)
 
I may look into that. I have in-law family living in Redmond. I'm about 150 miles to the SE from there, but I dont mind the drive.
 
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