The B

[Lanse]

Im back!! All my chickens are now in their coop and I’ve been trying to get my snapper running again for the spring.

Been doing a lot of cleaning parts on the tractor, having the compressed air is great!!! As you can see, its clearly taken all apart,

and I’ve thought a lot about the painting of it. Its all apart (as much as it would be to paint it) and the only thing I can think of to do to it is remove the fenders and seat. It would need to be wire brushed down, JT says not to use a wire wheel on the tin, but what about using paint stripper as well??? I think it might be best to clean up the engine first, then put it back together, then put that back on the tractor, then paint it before replacing the radiator, sheet metal, front axle, etc, what do you think??? It would minimize the grease on the engine and the paint, but I’ve also concidered leaving the sides of the block and the head and valve covers unpainted until it runs to minimize the grease and scratches on there, what do you think??? Janicholson, what is a shift rail??? and, true, tool ownership is not a reason to use it, but it sure is a reason to want too, LOL Thanks everyone who responded to my last thread.

 

[Luke S]

Don't take this the wrong way, but why don't you just put paint out of your mind? Fogetabatit! Get it running real good and all the other things done and then maybe think about paint.

 

[Paul from MI]

Keep up the good work, I'm sure you're learning as you go. Pay good attention to the guys on this forum, I don't think any of them would steer you wrong. As far as paint, maybe paint the engine after it's completely assembled and ready to go back on the tractor. You'll paint it all again anyway, but may get into a few spots easier that way. Other than that, get it running GOOD first, then paint again completely. You'll still end up removing the hood, gas tank, wheels, etc. so it really doesn't matter much. General rule--mechanicals first, cosmetics second.
Good luck,
Paul

 

[Lanse]

well, id like to do the front and back of the engine because you cant get in there with it back together. The inside of the sheet metal too

 

[troyr]

What kind of paint are you going to use?I used persian orange #1 from this forum.Then I went to the local auto paint store for my thinner.I took my parts off and painted them seperately.I almost painted it a different color like john deere green.I'm33 and I know that would tick off some of the saltier one's but I would get a kick out of it.Troy in Wa.

 

[Lanse]

I painted a Wheelhorse-nevermind


I saw, your pictures are what inspired me to re-repaint this thing...

 

[JT]

Lanse,
Yes paint stripper would be the best way to go on the tin, or sand paper, but with stripper, be careful thought, is some pretty nasty stuff, will burn your skin, so read directions. I would put engine back together, put on tractor, put front wheels back on, then stop there, get it back on wheels, get it running, correctly, if you let it run for less than 30-45 seconds, you don't need a radiator on it to run. Then clean your cast parts, get primed and ready to paint, then put on blocks and paint it. I know you are as excited as a kid in a candy store, but you have lots of work ahead of you and the slower you take it, the happier you will be when it is done, less mistakes and better results. My email is open if you ever want to ask questions, I wish you were closer, it would be fun to help you in person.
Jim

 

[Lanse]

Thanks Jim. I sent you an e-mail

 

[trucker40]

I cant think of any reason not to use a wire wheel on the tin except this,if you dont take all the paint off it wont look good and any paint that is still on after the wire brush will curl at the edges and mess up your paint job.You have to watch using sand paper,it could leave scratches if you use coarse stuff.It wouldn't hurt any thing to paint the front and back of your motor now,but it has to be clean,then wiped down with whatever stuff it says to use with the paint.If I have a clean surface to work with,for that I would use a rattle can.You will see if you need it to be cleaner then if it bleeds grease through the rattle can job.Think clean.I remember you said it would be a working tractor and would not be putting automotive paint on it.It takes a lot of work to paint something and make it look good.Whats up with the motor?I think I would rather get it running first,but keep cleaning stuff as I put it together.After it runs paint it.

 

[Janicholson]

Lanse......Please head this piece of info right now.
Tomorrow go out and jack up the front of that torque tube and either take the concrete blocks out of there, or place them with the holes up and down (as though they were in a wall. The risk of them cracking is very real. They are far stronger the other way. Always put a piece of wood under the bottom one, and between the top and the load. I am serious, I lost two good friends from this same issue, one under a combine header, and the other under a 68 Catalina. JimN

 

[ALAND]

I second the advice on the concrete blocks. You need to use them with the holes going up and down. It may be holding it for now but you could drop something or shake the tractor trying to loosen a bolt and they will crumble. I will also add that you should NEVER park your Kubota with the loader bucket raised. You need to have all pressure of the hydraulics.
I am not trying to pick on you just want to offer some safety advise.

 

[Lanse]

Thanks you two, i'll get on it