Thinking about building a truck from basically scratch

[Don B.]

See what all he has. Could be more treasures you could use.

He's got alot of "dura last" auto zone parts new in boxes, I hate not knowing who really made such important things as front suspension, steering and brake parts though what he has left is brand new and much cheaper than directly from the store. I have most of a new front end in boxes already, old old stock but brand new from moog and TRW already but might go back for the drums and rotors

 

[Don B.]

Well it's a go. Got my trans, bell housing and flywheel, and am finishing stripping of the frame for blasting.
Need to find a tall transmission tunnel for my cab. My son had one in our other parts stash that some thief/scrapper decided he had to have and broke into our shed at my parents fishing cabin.
Have blasting/stripping of the multi layers of paint off my pile of parts, am looking for someone good with a paint gun.

 

[Tom in Mo.]

Keep going. It's always good to have a reason to wake up in the morning. I am currently in between projects and it gets pretty boring without a hunk of iron to wrench on.

 

[Don B.]

Wow. Getting Prices on paint work and getting blown out. These guys don't seem to understand what "completely in pieces, only needing them to do the actual"paint" work, with no stripping, no masking, no assembly or disassembly, no rust repair , just paint" means. I know a guy who just had a square body Chevy painted, drive it in and drove it out "done" and paid less than what I'm getting, with less work needing done. And other than being a Chevy that other guy I know, his truck looks fantastic.
The only thing I will need "body work" wise is a little straightening from some rough forklift handling work when the place we bought the bed from, loaded it on my kids trailer ... And I'm wanting to do all the assembly work.

 

[Sprint 6]

Wow. Getting Prices on paint work and getting blown out. These guys don't seem to understand what "completely in pieces, only needing them to do the actual"paint" work, with no stripping, no masking, no assembly or disassembly, no rust repair , just paint" means. I know a guy who just had a square body Chevy painted, drive it in and drove it out "done" and paid less than what I'm getting, with less work needing done. And other than being a Chevy that other guy I know, his truck looks fantastic.
The only thing I will need "body work" wise is a little straightening from some rough forklift handling work when the place we bought the bed from, loaded it on my kids trailer ... And I'm wanting to do all the assembly work.

Priced auto paint supplies lately? My son has a 77 Ford Highboy we've been building for the last 3 years. He's in the process of paint and body right now, doing it all himself. My son has almost $5K in just paint, primer, and supplies, before he even started block sanding steel.

No professional shop will do the paint without doing the prep. 99% of how the paint turns out is the prep and body work. They aren't going to hinge their reputation on your prep work.

 

[m16ty]

Priced auto paint supplies lately? My son has a 77 Ford Highboy we've been building for the last 3 years. He's in the process of paint and body right now, doing it all himself. My son has almost $5K in just paint, primer, and supplies, before he even started block sanding steel.

No professional shop will do the paint without doing the prep. 99% of how the paint turns out is the prep and body work. They aren't going to hinge their reputation on your prep work.

I get what you are saying, but a professional shop can look at a body and tell if the prep is done right. If you get most of the rough stuff done surely they could touch up the prep and spray it.

The fact is 99% of all body shops don't really want anything but insurance jobs on late model vehicles. Hardly any body shop around here does much body work, they just order new parts and paint them to match. On top of that, anything more than a dented fender or bumper will total a late model vehicle. Very few do any frame work either.

 

[Sprint 6]

I get what you are saying, but a professional shop can look at a body and tell if the prep is done right. If you get most of the rough stuff done surely they could touch up the prep and spray it.

The fact is 99% of all body shops don't really want anything but insurance jobs on late model vehicles. Hardly any body shop around here does much body work, they just order new parts and paint them to match. On top of that, anything more than a dented fender or bumper will total a late model vehicle. Very few do any frame work either.

Which would you rather do? A quicky spray and pray job using cheap materials for $3K that you might get paid for, but be on the hook forever. Or, repair a deer strike and get a check from a reputable insurance company for $12-15K? They go where the money is.

There are a few places near me that specialize in paint and body on older cars, build hot rods, and such. But their paint jobs start at $25K and go up from there. That is what my son is aiming for, look professional, but only have materials and time in it. The time aspect is what people don't understand. Yeah, a pro is faster, but his skill level doesn't make his time worth less. My son probably has 20 hours just breaking the truck down for paint, removing the bed, hood, trim, windows, etc. Thisbis what it takes for a pro level job. He is probably also has another 20 hours on ding fill and blocking it smooth (thankfully, he started with a rust free truck). He hasn't even laid the guid le coat yet.

 

[Don B.]

My kids buddy's Chevy mentioned above was done for $5500. I was quoted $6k and that's with me bringing them a bare stripped body in pieces. And hauling that body home and assembling it myself. Another place quoted me $8500-9k without even seeing it. I was hoping to get away with $~3500 ish for that part of it.
I just got my frame back from the sandblaster that I rolled in completely stripped down and for $350 I was surprised that it was that cheap as they blasted and primed the whole frame and wheels. And they used a marine grade industrial primer that I could use without a top coat because the frame won't see any UV. I won't, I'm gonna go over it with a compatible industrial gloss black as I rebuild the suspension. I have all the front end parts along with a newly rebuilt steering box in hand, just got a notification from fed ex I'll have my new leaf springs in the morning.
Last weekend my son and I went and were gonna buy a rusty ramcharger for parts but it's already picked over, not enough left to do either of us any good. Which is a shame as my son has an 89 ramcharger. Rust free that I drive back from Vegas myself. Never seen salt.

 

[Don B.]

All of the body panels I have are from out of State, and are rust free. They're going in for "dustless blasting" before they go for paint. So whoever paints it is going to get a bare body in pieces with no glass, no interior in it. Prime it block it seal it and spray it, then rub it out and I'll be in to haul it home. No disassembly,asking or reassembly is gonna be needed on their part

 

[m16ty]

Which would you rather do? A quicky spray and pray job using cheap materials for $3K that you might get paid for, but be on the hook forever. Or, repair a deer strike and get a check from a reputable insurance company for $12-15K? They go where the money is.

There are a few places near me that specialize in paint and body on older cars, build hot rods, and such. But their paint jobs start at $25K and go up from there. That is what my son is aiming for, look professional, but only have materials and time in it. The time aspect is what people don't understand. Yeah, a pro is faster, but his skill level doesn't make his time worth less. My son probably has 20 hours just breaking the truck down for paint, removing the bed, hood, trim, windows, etc. Thisbis what it takes for a pro level job. He is probably also has another 20 hours on ding fill and blocking it smooth (thankfully, he started with a rust free truck). He hasn't even laid the guid le coat yet.

I'm not complaining, and I'd probably do the same, just stating the facts. Good body men that will tackle a resto are few and far between in these parts. The few that are left stay so booked up and are very picky about the jobs they take, because they can be.

I've painted a couple tractors and did what I'd consider a "professional" job. You are right, prep is key to a good paint job, and if you use high quality paint it isn't cheap either. I probably had over 40 hours each on prep of the tractors I did, but I do understand people that do it every day have better tools and know tricks of the trade to get it done faster than I do. I'm not a pro painter by any means, but it's not that hard if you use quality paint and materials and follow some simple directions.

Where is Earl Scheib when you need him. Lol

 

[Sprint 6]

My kids buddy's Chevy mentioned above was done for $5500. I was quoted $6k and that's with me bringing them a bare stripped body in pieces. And hauling that body home and assembling it myself. Another place quoted me $8500-9k without even seeing it. I was hoping to get away with $~3500 ish for that part of it.
I just got my frame back from the sandblaster that I rolled in completely stripped down and for $350 I was surprised that it was that cheap as they blasted and primed the whole frame and wheels. And they used a marine grade industrial primer that I could use without a top coat because the frame won't see any UV. I won't, I'm gonna go over it with a compatible industrial gloss black as I rebuild the suspension. I have all the front end parts along with a newly rebuilt steering box in hand, just got a notification from fed ex I'll have my new leaf springs in the morning.
Last weekend my son and I went and were gonna buy a rusty ramcharger for parts but it's already picked over, not enough left to do either of us any good. Which is a shame as my son has an 89 ramcharger. Rust free that I drive back from Vegas myself. Never seen salt.

$6K seems pretty reasonable, given what the supplies alone would cost. As I stated before, since 2020, $3500 would barely buy the supplies and cheap paint. My son is doing a 3 stage. The primer was $500/gal, the silver metallic base was $800/gal x1, the candy metallic red was $850/gal x2, and the clear was $500/gal x1. Then add in tack cloths, piles of different sandpapers, etc.

 

[Tom in Mo.]

The price of paint is why I'm gonna just let my '05 Duramax stay ugly.

 

[Don B.]

$6K seems pretty reasonable, given what the supplies alone would cost. As I stated before, since 2020, $3500 would barely buy the supplies and cheap paint. My son is doing a 3 stage. The primer was $500/gal, the silver metallic base was $800/gal x1, the candy metallic red was $850/gal x2, and the clear was $500/gal x1. Then add in tack cloths, piles of different sandpapers, etc.

$500/gal for PRIMER? DAMN!!!

 

[Don B.]

Yeah but besides a lil rust mixed in (possibly) is yours all one color (unless it's a "2 tone" design)
Mine isn't. Hood is seafoam (think old US forest service truck) so is bed under peeling jade/forest green... I have 3 core supports to pick from... Red white or blue. I have 4 sets of doors to pick from.
Death warmed over mouse gray, white, red, 2 tone blue/silver, I think there's a black one in the bunch. Fenders at least 3 different colors among 2 sets, cab is charcoal and a respray too.
I want it all the same color. And I don't want it to flake and peel off. I'm wanting either something closer to the color of the most recent paint on the bed (forest green/jade green) or a mid to darkish blue. All of it. Not just one part.
I'm stripping it all down bare and starting over.
None of this is the trucks original sheet metal. That was maroon.
But I have most if not all of a nice tan interior on hand, looking for something to go with that. Original maroon interior wasn't in very good shape anymore.

 

[Don B.]

All of the body panels I have are from out of State, and are rust free. They're going in for "dustless blasting" before they go for paint. So whoever paints it is going to get a bare body in pieces with no glass, no interior in it. Prime it block it seal it and spray it, then rub it out and I'll be in to haul it home. No disassembly,asking or reassembly is gonna be needed on their part

I meant "no masking" been too long since I've posted, so I can't edit I guess.

Got piles of stuff sitting on the porch every day, biggest of which were my new leaf springs last Saturday.
I have everything here now to replace every piece of front and back suspension. I'll have the clean freshly blasted primed frame here tomorrow. They have been done with it for a few days now but have to rely on my self n with his bigger than mine, trailer to get it here

 

[Don B.]

Yeah but besides a lil rust mixed in (possibly) is yours all one color (unless it's a "2 tone" design)
Mine isn't. Hood is seafoam (think old US forest service truck) so is bed under peeling jade/forest green... I have 3 core supports to pick from... Red white or blue. I have 4 sets of doors to pick from.
Death warmed over mouse gray, white, red, 2 tone blue/silver, I think there's a black one in the bunch. Fenders at least 3 different colors among 2 sets, cab is charcoal and a respray too.
I want it all the same color. And I don't want it to flake and peel off. I'm wanting either something closer to the color of the most recent paint on the bed (forest green/jade green) or a mid to darkish blue. All of it. Not just one part.
I'm stripping it all down bare and starting over.
None of this is the trucks original sheet metal. That was maroon.
But I have most if not all of a nice tan interior on hand, looking for something to go with that. Original maroon interior wasn't in very good shape anymore.

That sheet metal I have isn't original to "that" truck but it is all original Dodge sheet metal. No chinesium reproduction crap. All from states out away from the rust and salt belt.
Surprisingly for a truck that I bought out of Wisconsin back around 2008ish the frame is surprisingly good shape
.

 

[mechanicfred]

I've always been a die hard Dodge guy. But I can't get a truck like I want from anyone. And Toyota Nissan can go pound sand.
I have most of the parts.
83 d250 Rolling frame (used to be my truck 15 years ago, my son bought back from my cousin for the engine for a 72 fury wagon) have completely rust free bed cab doors and fenders courtesy of Colorado and Georgia.
Have a couple of possible engines from 318s to a low mile motor home 440 and trans. Only thing I don't have is the 5 speed trans (yes if I do it it Will be a stick) I have a 12 1/2 ton and it is ok, no character.
Not a fan of the rear coil spring suspension for pulling my camper or utility trailer.

I want wing windows (never smoked in my life) summer on the floor, wiper switch by itself on the dash and cowl vents. And a CARBURETOR.
K I S S. My wife wants a different camper which helps my cause, and I want to go back to a 3/4 ton just because I want a 3/4 ton. And I work on computerized crap every day at work. I want to get away from that. I'd rather use a timing light, vacuum gauge and screwdriver instead of a scanner. Previously mentioned tools owner already, and collecting dust as is my Sun scope haha

Got my ‘79 done. Runs great!

 

[Don B.]

well... got a nasty surprise on this cab I've had stored at a friends barn for a dozen years or so.... as soon as I got it out in the sunshine I see that the whole back wall of it has been cut out and pop riveted/bondo'd in. It's in fantastic shape everywhere these cabs were known "not" to be over the years... Its had parts stored inside for all those years and being in a dark barn I never saw this.... It appears the original truck had had the back of the cab cut open for some unknown reason... like whatever it started out as needed an open back to the cab.... U haul type deal or camper or something like that.... so I have a bunch more work to do on it or else punt and go looking for another cab. I have an offer for one in FL for a good price but will cost me more to have it shipped or to go get it than the guy wants for it.... found another in KY but that guy won't call me back when he says.... I had plans to leave straight from work yesterday and bring that one home today..... only 6-1/2 hours away... so I guess I start drilling pop rivets, wire brushing Bondo, and alot of welding I wasn't counting on.... but the cab roof, rain gutter area, cab mount area underneath, rockers cab corners and floor are in such good shape compared to most I see....

 

[Don B.]

Well been welding on it parts of 2 days now .. had to buy and extend a couple of cheap pairs of vise grips to reach the bottom of the cab/floor junction thru the back window opening.
Got all the pop rivets out and welded in, biggest problem I ran into was the double layer of seam sealer the last hack left behind both on this cab and the back wall of whatever cab was sacrificed to fix this one. I had to backtrack and separate them and grind that crap out so my welds don't pop and blow holes. I figured I could just burn thru but nope.

 

[Don B.]

Ok welding supply rant time
I ran out of 75/25 argon/CO2 gas and had to go exchange my tank. Them sumbitches added a $28 "haz mat surcharge" onto my bill. My bottle of gas was $153 dam dollars. It wasn't that long ago my bill for the same bottle was 1/3 that....
What gives other than time to start buying from the competition a couple of miles away. What's "haz mat" about inert gas? Inert means doesn't react, doesn't change properties of a reaction.
Besides another convenient way to screw the customer. Is it just AIRGAS that pulls this shyt? I've been dealing with them for years.