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thought the problem was fixed...but

Yesterday's Tractor Forums
A

award

Member
8n
ok, so i remove the wires on the ignition switch and put a jumper back there. for giggles i ohm the ignition switch, and it is almost 14 ohms with the switch on. anyway, jumped the posts where the 2 wire switch attached and ran the tractor good for about 10 minutes or so. just like new then at half throttle it started popping a little or cutting out but trying to run still then dies out. wait a while and it does it again. so new points and rotor, jumped the ign. switch to eliminate that and the problem returned a short while later. could it be possible that their is a just clogged?
 
"could it be possible that their is a just clogged?"

You have two options here.

You can just start making guesses about the problem and running them by the folks here, or you can actually troubleshoot the problem & resolve it. If you want to toss out guesses, I can come up w/ a dozen or so possibilities & I'm sure other folks can add a few more.

I'm thinking you just want to start making guesses. The reason I say that is because I told you yesterday " As soon as it stops, check quickly for fuel then spark. When I say quickly, I mean get off the seat, grab the tools & do it right then. "

But when it stopped, you "wait a while and it does it again. "

Start the tractor up. When it stops running, check quickly for fuel then spark. And check for spark & fuel as I suggested.
50 Tips
 
bruce
when it stopped on me the other day, i did immediately check for gas as it drained quickly from carb bottom plug hole into a mason jar. i doubt it is a gas problem because it has plenty when the tractor stops. also, i checked the spark by pulling a boot off the front plug and inserted a different plug into the boot then grounded it on the manifold. i got a yellow spark across a good 3/16" gap that i previously opened up on the plug. so yes, gas and spark.

i ran the tractor today and it worked good for ten minutes or so then she shut down. temp. outside is around 25F. as mentioned earlier, i ohmed out the ignition switch and i got 14 ohms. to me, that doesn"t seem right unless there is suppose to be some kind of built in resistor which i would doubt. as mentioned, ran it today with the ignition wires (two) off the posts and a jumper wire installed. that"s when it ran good for 10 mins. or so with light plowing in 2nd gear. when i went to back up and park it....it puttered out.
 
The fact that it had gas & fuel yesterday doesn't mean it had either or both today.

As soon as it stops, check for both just like you did yesterday.

And yes, the switch is probably bad.....but so what? Just use the jumper wire until you get a replacement.

Refresh my memory....is it 6v or 12v?
50 Tips
 
6v front distributor. i replaced the old cruddy wiring a few years ago. also, today when i pulled the switch wires off the block...there was no corrosion on anything.
 
Crank it up & wait for it to stop. When it does, check fuel first then spark. Quickly. Keep the jumper wire on the ignition switch. Pay attention to how long it runs before it stops.
50 Tips
 
well i just went out to start it again. fuel on. crank crank crank. won't start. put the extra plug under each boot one at a time and i got spark. pulled the plug from bottom of carb...plenty of fuel.
 
The last time you were here, you were asked a lot of questions about some advice you had given that was clearly erroneous. You never replied to our individual questions, so I'll just try again.

On Dec 23, 2011, you responded to a question about a 8N grill by saying “With a worn (out) axle bushing this causes the radiator-hood dog legs support bracket to move up and hit the fan” Because that simply can not happen, I asked you to explain your statement......and you never have.

On Dec 27, 2011 you responded to a question about engine knock on an N by saying “" Rod knocks are loudest at higher speeds (over 2500 RPM) " and " Valve train noises generally are loudest up to 1500 rpms" " Dirt contamination on a sludged engine is the number one cause of true lifter noises," I replied that “That's nice info; too bad it doesn't apply to a N engine. Unless you are suggesting that he unhook the governor”. TOH asked “Now what valve train parts would that be on a flat head?” I found your “reply”, verbatim, on another web page. Because you posted the reply w/o quotes or attribution, I asked you “Why didn't you just provide the link to your source rather than cutting & pasting it?”. The article you copied about engine noise had nothing to do w/ a flathead engine.

No replies to any of those questions.

On Dec 28, 2011 you responded to a question about an oil filter canister overflowing at start-up by saying “Something has to be installed wrong, and that requires a new disassembling the engine.” I said “Why do you continue to waste our time w/ inane statements like this? Your replies to most questions are either incomplete, misleading or just plain wrong. “ TOH asked:

1) By what means and at what locations in the engine would a blockage in an internal oil passage cause oil to flow out the filler tube on an N tractor? How much of a teardown is needed to determine if there is such a blockage?

2) What is the purpose of the baffle in the N tractor filler tube if it is not meant to help contain the oil mist picked up in blow by gases? If it has no purpose is it OK to remove it so I can pour fresh oil in more quickly?

All that got us, as I noted at the time, was a grammatically challenged & ill tempered rant as you attempted to divert attention from your clear & obvious lack of knowledge of automotive mechanics in general & N's in particular.

Unfortunately, you have a history on this forum of making ludicrous statements and then getting in a snit when you are asked to back up the statements. For example, in 2010, you told us your EI didn’t have transistors or a rotor. You also said “Ford New Holland is coming out with a "Original" 8N tractor, just like the old one...same engine, same fenders, hoods, you wouldn't tell the old versus the new apart." And you advised a poster w/ stripped out threads in his sediment bowl to buy an electric fuel shut-off valve for $60……which must be screwed into those stripped threads in the sediment bowl.

You were asked to explain those statements and you ignored us. Well, you didn’t really ignore us; you just never answered the questions & simply responded w/ a tirade of insults sufficient to get you banned from the board.

So, why don’t you just answer the questions? Surely it can’t be because you do not know what you’re talking about, is it? More to the point, why do you consciously choose to publicly embarrass yourself over & over by posting here at all?
 
(quoted from post at 15:06:14 03/05/12) bruce
when it stopped on me the other day, i did immediately check for gas as it drained quickly from carb bottom plug hole into a mason jar. i doubt it is a gas problem because it has plenty when the tractor stops. also, i checked the spark by pulling a boot off the front plug and inserted a different plug into the boot then grounded it on the manifold. i got a yellow spark across a good 3/16" gap that i previously opened up on the plug. so yes, gas and spark.

i ran the tractor today and it worked good for ten minutes or so then she shut down. temp. outside is around 25F. as mentioned earlier, i ohmed out the ignition switch and i got 14 ohms. to me, that doesn"t seem right unless there is suppose to be some kind of built in resistor which i would doubt. as mentioned, ran it today with the ignition wires (two) off the posts and a jumper wire installed. that"s when it ran good for 10 mins. or so with light plowing in 2nd gear. when i went to back up and park it....it puttered out.
Click to expand...

Spark should be bright blue! Not yellow.

Rick
 
in a little while i will go out and check voltage on the coil wire and battery. if the coil wire voltage is the same as the battery (i'll double check the battery connections also for corrosion)should i replace that condensor since i have a new one?
 
(quoted from post at 01:17:06 03/07/12) in a little while i will go out and check voltage on the coil wire and battery. if the coil wire voltage is the same as the battery (i'll double check the battery connections also for corrosion)should i replace that condensor since i have a new one?
Click to expand...
The coil wire should only be the same as battery voltage when the points are open. When cranking you should see the voltage drop off or pulse when the points close. Front coils have a habit of going bad and fail when hot and then work again after cooling down. That is why you need to check for spark just as soon as it stops running.
good luck
 
if you have any spark.. condensor usually ain't the problem.

open condensors cause burnt points.. fast.

shorted condensors cause NO SPARK
 
well, it still won't start. i pulled the distributor and checked the points, they are set correctly. i also replaced the condensor since i had the distributor out anyway. i ohmed between the curly pigtain of the coil and the feed post and got about 1 ohm on the 200 ohm scale. is this about right?

yes, i checked gas this a.m. and each spark plug wire with a seperate plug. spark is there but hard to tell the color with it being so sunny out today. battery volt and coil lead volt is the same...roughly 6.3 volts.
 
award........you ask......." i ohmed between the curly pigtain of the coil and the feed post and got about 1 ohm on the 200 ohm scale. is this about right?".........YES, that is about correct for the weird 4-nipple squarecan 6V ignition coil.

You write........"battery volt and coil lead volt is the same...roughly 6.3 volts".......where are you measuring "coil lead volt"??? ......iff'n yer talkin' about the top terminal of the squarecan ignition coil, that means the points are OPEN. Should read about 3-volts with the points closed. Engine running about 2.5-7 volts with analog meter. You can NOT use a modern digital meter in trouble shooting a running engine. .........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
You should have battery voltage w/ the points open & half that w/ them closed.

Resistance on the coil is ok for a 6v coil.

Are you testing for spark w/ a plug set at 3/16 or 1/4"?

Before you put the distributor back on, did you do the continuity check I told you about on 3/2?
Continuity Check
 
bruce, yes, that check is with a 3/16 to 1/4" gap. I will look at the 3/2 posting for resistance check on the distributor. i'll post it later when i get done. ty
 
dell, yes, i measured at the feed post on top of the coil and got 6.3v. then i bump the starter until i got about half that voltage.

since the distributor is out i figured i would change the condeser since i had a new one anyway.

as mentioned under bruce's request...i will do the distributor ohming in a bit and post back. ty
 
hi guys
i followed the steps outlined regarding continuity checking the distributor as mentioned. everything checks good. i will put the assembly back on the tractor in the morning when there is light.

in the meantime, i pulled the carb and checked it out inside. using compressed air i blew out the passages and checked for the escaping air where it should be. everything looked good inside the carb.

i've been reading about main screw and air screw settings. i have the original operators manual(yes, Dec. 1949) that came with the tractor when i bought it in 2006. it calls for the main jet screw to be turned out 1 full turn and the idle/air to be turned out 2 1/2 turns. both from the seated position.

in the large operator's manual, page 84, it calls for the idle air screw to be set at 1 turn out from seated position.

i understand that the main can be opened 1/8" more until a load will not cause the tractor to "cough"; and i will address this once i get it running good again. i'm basically wondering why the two manuals would be so different with the idle air screw settings. I'll deal with that later also and keep both of them at 1 full turn out until i get this issue corrected.
 
i'm basically wondering why the two manuals would be so different with the idle air screw settings.
Click to expand...

Those are just recommended starting points and all carburetors will require final tweaking.

My guess is the shop manual came out later and refers to the TSX-241 and your owners manual is for the TSX-33???
 
(quoted from post at 05:23:08 03/07/12)
i'm basically wondering why the two manuals would be so different with the idle air screw settings.
Click to expand...

Those are just recommended starting points and all carburetors will require final tweaking.

My guess is the shop manual came out later and refers to the TSX-241 and your owners manual is for the TSX-33???
Click to expand...
ollarBill is dead-on with, "all carburetors will require final tweaking".......after all, it that were not the case, the maker would have eliminated the adjustment screws & simply installed fixed orifices!! :roll:
 
ok guys, i put the distributor assembly back on. when it was off i double checked the points, changed the condensor so points and condensor are brand new. checked coil feed wire and batter voltage. the voltage is the same at 6.1. i bumped the starter and the coil voltage dropped to 3.0. main jet screw at 2 turns out like i had it prior and where it ran good. same thing with idle screw prior to tractor quitting.

i checked one side of the 3 block terminal board behind dash and i got 6.1 volts on the hot side and a little less than 3 on the other side.

this tractor will not even grumble when cranking. i pulled the intake neck out of the oil/air cleaner for giggles. still no difference. i don"t have and starter fluid sound guy. yes, i am frstrated. btw, yes, i did check the distributor with all the continuity checks as mentioned earlier. i also checked spark on each plug wire with an extra 3/16" gapped plug grounded to head bolts. each sparked but was not anything to brag about. the plugs should not be bad as this tractor maybe has 40 hours on it since a total engine rebuild in 2007. any thoughts?
 
Do you know if there is good compression? Fuel at the carb. and good spark won't do anything if the fuel isn't being drawn into the engine. Had that problem with my 2n. Several valves were stuck open.

Larry
 
i'm going to pull the plugs in a bit. when cranking the engine and the air intake neck off the air cleaner there is definately the sucking pulsing sound. this engine just won't even pop at all.
 
First, put a charger on the battery. You have a weak spark & all that cranking isn't helping the spark situation.

Next,replace the plugs. If you flooded it, (and you probably did) they're fouled & it will be it next to impossible to start. You don't need to toss them; heat the tips for a few seconds w/ a propane torch to burn off the invisible spark-robbing deposits from today's additive filled gasoline........or wash them in lacquer thinner.

Next, get a can of starting fluid. After the battery is fully charged, remove the breather hose, key on, 3/4 throttle, no choke, spin the starter 2 or 3 seconds & squirt the starter fluid into the carb throat.

Plan B: Charge the battery, replace/clean the plugs & pull start it.

Plan C: Charge the battery, replace/clean the plugs & jump it. (see tip # 43)
50 Tips
 
i'm going to pull the plugs in a bit. when cranking the engine and the air intake neck off the air cleaner there is definately the sucking pulsing sound. this engine just won't even pop at all.
 
i have a 12 volt charger that does not have a 6 volt option. can i use this charger in a specific spot on the tractor?
 
No.

You can rig something w/ a light bulb, but if you have a 6v tractor, you need a 6v volt charger. $35 or so at HF or NT.
 
ok, i'll see if my brother has one. starting fluid will be here around 4:30. i'll post again in a couple hours. ty bruce.
 
(quoted from post at 02:08:39 03/08/12) ok guys, i put the distributor assembly back on. when it was off i double checked the points, changed the condensor so points and condensor are brand new. checked coil feed wire and batter voltage. the voltage is the same at 6.1. i bumped the starter and the coil voltage dropped to 3.0. main jet screw at 2 turns out like i had it prior and where it ran good. same thing with idle screw prior to tractor quitting.

i checked one side of the 3 block terminal board behind dash and i got 6.1 volts on the hot side and a little less than 3 on the other side.

this tractor will not even grumble when cranking. i pulled the intake neck out of the oil/air cleaner for giggles. still no difference. i don"t have and starter fluid sound guy. yes, i am frstrated. btw, yes, i did check the distributor with all the continuity checks as mentioned earlier. i also checked spark on each plug wire with an extra 3/16" gapped plug grounded to head bolts. each sparked but was not anything to brag about. the plugs should not be bad as this tractor maybe has 40 hours on it since a total engine rebuild in 2007. any thoughts?
Click to expand...

5 yr old plugs? I would change them and I don't care how long you think they have run. Have you done a compression check?? will not run without enoough compression.
 
i pulled the plugs and cleaned the carbon off, double checked the gap and reinstalled. i'm waiting for the starting fluid to arrive.

the engine was completely and professionally rebuilt in the spring of 2007 and the tractor really doesn't have much time on it so i'm not even concerned about compression at this point. prior to it being rebuilt, the last time it was rebuilt was in 1967 because the tag was on the motor when i bought it. there was very LITTLE compression at that time and it still ran good and could pull a 2 bottom plow. it did, however, smoke like a locamotive back then.
 
" pulled the plugs and cleaned the carbon off,"

How did you do that? Did you sand blast them? Burn them off w/ a torch?

The carbon is rarely a problem. It's the additives in today's gasoline that is.
 
Award is a person, not a dummy, so, here's the best tip of today, award.
Got a hair dryer around? ...maybe the wife has one you can use. Gasoline will not hang around no more than five minutes out in the open environment. And you certainly don't need a sand blaster, as they used those way back in my automobile mechanic days, which was in late 1940's and early 50 years. That was when "leaded gasoline" would foul spark plugs and piston crowns.
 
Hey 8N1949, welcome back! I see the last time you posted on this thread it got deleted.

Maybe that's because, once again, you don't have a clue about auto mechanics. Or maybe because no one was impressed that you discovered Mapquest.

The "advice" you have just offered is worthless. And, you just keep it up.

How about responding to the many questions we all have about other "advice" you've offered here?

The last time you were here, you were asked a lot of questions about some advice you had given that was clearly erroneous. You never replied to our individual questions, so I'll just try again.

On Dec 23, 2011, you responded to a question about a 8N grill by saying “With a worn (out) axle bushing this causes the radiator-hood dog legs support bracket to move up and hit the fan” Because that simply can not happen, I asked you to explain your statement......and you never have.

On Dec 27, 2011 you responded to a question about engine knock on an N by saying “" Rod knocks are loudest at higher speeds (over 2500 RPM) " and " Valve train noises generally are loudest up to 1500 rpms" " Dirt contamination on a sludged engine is the number one cause of true lifter noises," I replied that “That's nice info; too bad it doesn't apply to a N engine. Unless you are suggesting that he unhook the governor”. TOH asked “Now what valve train parts would that be on a flat head?” I found your “reply”, verbatim, on another web page. Because you posted the reply w/o quotes or attribution, I asked you “Why didn't you just provide the link to your source rather than cutting & pasting it?”. The article you copied about engine noise had nothing to do w/ a flathead engine.

No replies to any of those questions.

On Dec 28, 2011 you responded to a question about an oil filter canister overflowing at start-up by saying “Something has to be installed wrong, and that requires a new disassembling the engine.” I said “Why do you continue to waste our time w/ inane statements like this? Your replies to most questions are either incomplete, misleading or just plain wrong. “ TOH asked:

1) By what means and at what locations in the engine would a blockage in an internal oil passage cause oil to flow out the filler tube on an N tractor? How much of a teardown is needed to determine if there is such a blockage?

2) What is the purpose of the baffle in the N tractor filler tube if it is not meant to help contain the oil mist picked up in blow by gases? If it has no purpose is it OK to remove it so I can pour fresh oil in more quickly?

All that got us, as I noted at the time, was a grammatically challenged & ill tempered rant as you attempted to divert attention from your clear & obvious lack of knowledge of automotive mechanics in general & N's in particular.

Unfortunately, you have a history on this forum of making ludicrous statements and then getting in a snit when you are asked to back up the statements. For example, in 2010, you told us your EI didn’t have transistors or a rotor. You also said “Ford New Holland is coming out with a "Original" 8N tractor, just like the old one...same engine, same fenders, hoods, you wouldn't tell the old versus the new apart." And you advised a poster w/ stripped out threads in his sediment bowl to buy an electric fuel shut-off valve for $60……which must be screwed into those stripped threads in the sediment bowl.

You were asked to explain those statements and you ignored us. Well, you didn’t really ignore us; you just never answered the questions & simply responded w/ a tirade of insults sufficient to get you banned from the board.

So, why don’t you just answer the questions? Surely it can’t be because you do not know what you’re talking about, is it? More to the point, why do you consciously choose to publicly embarrass yourself over & over by posting here at all?
 
bruce, i blew off the top of the head so no dust or dirt could get into the cylinder. then i pulled each plug and took them into the house and used a light brushing with a wire brush. after that i used an old sock and soaked a section with lacqure thinner to clean the "gap" and all around it. did this for each plug and they look almost new.

i borrowed a 6v charger from my brother and had the wife pick up some starter fluid. too late tonight to do anything with it so if it isn't raining in the a.m. i will proceed with your suggestions. also, i double checked the gap and they are all set at .025". plugs are H10 and not H12. i did get a nice blue spark with the cleaned plugs out and grounded to the head bolt (each plug). once they were cleaned, i did try to start it again with no success. i pulled the plugs again and they were wet so there is fuel being delivered. i haven't touched the tractor since because i was waiting for the starting fluid and charger.

on a side note, i will have to look for my compression gauge in case i need it. my brother thought it could possibly be a blown head gasket. i guess that is a possibility but as mention, i will follow your steps.
 
If plugs wet with gas, then it is flooded. Clean them again....or at least spray-wash with starting fluid. Turn off gas at sediment bowl before next try & attempt starting on start-fluid ONLY so as to not wet plugs again.
 
I have seen many start with a blown head gasket--check the oil and make sure it isn't overfull and the radiator coolant to make sure it isn't underfull. you are going about this in a methodical manner and you will find the issue-if you stick to it. some call it a mental illness-we call it a hobby. start with the fuel off with the starting fluid (take it easy). you could just have a case of gasoline that has seen better days.
 
OK, stick w/ us, you're making progress.

No need to wire brush the plugs. Actually, that does more harm than good. But, as JMOR said, you need to burn them off again (or use lacquer thinner) because you flooded it. And, as both JMOR & elmersooner said, use the starting fluid, no gas.

Don't worry about a head gasket. Like elmersooner said, that's not a problem. Even if it did blow, it will fire & probably start.
50 Tips
 
i hate it when it is dark out and you can't work on anything. curiosity got the best of me. i just pulled the oil stick and i smell what "could" be a hint of gas in the oil. oil level is at the full mark. coolant level is above the core.

i'll pull the plugs tomorrow and lacquer them again then reinstall. then i'll go 3/4 throttle, no choke, crank a couple seconds and put a little starting fluid in the intake pipe.
 
" i'll pull the plugs tomorrow and lacquer them again then reinstall. then i'll go 3/4 throttle, no choke, crank a couple seconds and put a little starting fluid in the intake pipe. "

That will work.

Don't forget to keep the battery on charge all night.

All sounds fine w/ the oil & coolant.
50 Tips
 
just out of curiosity, does anyone know if there is an aftermarket carb. for these tractors? one would think that after all these years that somebody would come up with something. maybe it is just the fact that they look (and feel due to their weight) out dated.

another question regarding these tractors and their oil filter system. i noticed on ebay that someone was selling an oil filter adapter that bolts to the side of the engine. this adapter uses the oil lines to feed this aluminum block and it allows a modern spin-on filter to be used, which would eliminate the original setup. just curious.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8N-Ford-Tractor-spin-on-oil-filter-adapter-NEW-/140716960544?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c3626b20
 

another question regarding these tractors and their oil filter system. i noticed on ebay that someone was selling an oil filter adapter that bolts to the side of the engine. this adapter uses the oil lines to feed this aluminum block and it allows a modern spin-on filter to be used, which would eliminate the original setup. just curious.

I put one of those on my 8N if it's the same one it's well built and fits with a little bend of the oil lines. It's worth the price to me not to drain the messy canister and high priced filter.
 
carl
i understand that the n series oil filtration system does not completely filter all the oil as it flows thru the canister. i could be wrong about that but i seem to remember this was stated. i think it filters like around 15% of the oil while the remaining 85% revolves unfiltered. with this "new technology", would the spin on filter put a restriction on the oil that could be detrimental to the engine in the long run? does anyone else know anything regarding?
i also notice another adapter on ebay that allows the filter to spin on from underneath. this way you can fill the filter prior to staring the engine and the filter is then primed.
thanks
 

I don't know why all the oil wouldn't be filter though the canister filter. I've had the spin on for 3yrs oil pressure is the same and no problems.
 
(quoted from post at 23:33:59 03/07/12) just out of curiosity, does anyone know if there is an aftermarket carb. for these tractors? one would think that after all these years that somebody would come up with something. maybe it is just the fact that they look (and feel due to their weight) out dated.


award, I have good news for you to replace the old M/S (troublesome) carburetor. Do as I have done some years ago and... buy a Zenith Model #13876 that will adapt right to the intake manifold and to the linkage to the governor. All the add-ons that I have done to my '49 8N this was one change-over that paid it way. I have a dealer installed Dowden Foot pedal on my 8N (this elimiates the use of the hand throttle on the dash) one uses like driving automobile. I have my engine set to idle at 420 rpms without the benefit of the hand throttle. I can start the tractor without any choke being use, put it in fourth gear and let out on the clutch and the tractor will move without the engine dying. Couldn't do that with the old original M/S TSX33 carburetor. Here is a picture of my Zenith on the 8N. I would add, the carburetor you have now may not work correctly if the governor isn't in good condition, as the governor does most of what is defined as tuned settings.

1949Ford8NTractor037-1.jpg


Here is a person on ebay selling the same Zenith #13876 carburetor. They are expensive, but to will benefit in the long haul. Buy it and don't look back. Good luck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zenith-Replacement-Carburetor-Ford-8N-9N-2N-13876-TSX24-/320860310815?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab4c3cd1f
Click to expand...
 
It really makes little difference on which carb you use if the tank is rusty and full of rust flakes. Dirty fuel means plugged filters and carbs.
 
ok, charged the battery real good. pulled the plugs and cleaned them again with lacquer thinner only and reinstalled.

when i loosened the breather tube by the air cleaner i also loosened it by the carb. i moved the tube by the air cleaner a little bit so that i could get ready to spray the starting fluid while cranking at 3/4 throttle and no choke. i cranked 3 seconds and gave it a blast. out of the tube bottom on the carb side i noticed dirt coming out. actually not dirt but wet black. so i stopped cranking. i then pulled the tube out and cleaned it. pulled the carb and completely cleaned it again. blew air thru the passages after seats were removed and used pb blaster to assist. the carb is spotless (so to say). i put it all back together again and installed on engine. left the tube off. pulled the plugs and cleaned again with lacquer thinner. installed the plugs.
3/4 throttle, no choke, 3 seconds of cranking and then continuted the cranking with a second of start fluid. she fired up and shut off. i then realized i didn"t have the sediment bowl valve open. it has been sitting for 15 minutes now with nothing else done but the charger on. should i pull the plugs again? what next?
 
Gas on 2 full turns, key on, no choke. Hit the starer button, count to 3 & use the starting fluid.

You don't need to clean the plugs because you didn't flood it. (the gas was off)
50 Tips
 
Bruce
Good news. I went back out, turned the gas back on, was gonna crank it for the 3 seconds but she started on her own. No need for the starting fluid this time. Exhause was dark but I can imagine that there was excess fuel in the cyclinders. After 15 seconds or a bit longer she cleared up. I let it warm for a couple minutes then throttled up and down. Moved the idle mixture from 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns after about 5 minutes of running. She seems to run very good just like it was new and like it did prior to this problem. So I know the points were bad and more than likely it was flooding out - I think. The good news is the carb is definately clean and the tractor runs like a top. Tonight I will drag the blade through the snow and see if the engine can hold the load (original problem) without sputtering. Gotta go right now but will update this evening. Check back and ty so much.
 
since it fired with the starting fluid--the spark is good.
the fuel delivery is your issue or a restriction in your air cleaner.
I would recommend a few things, read up on cleaning the air filter - removing the oil cup on the bottom opening up the canister and cleaning the steel wire mesh with an appropriate solvent (gas, diesel etc...) reinstalling the wire mesh. this can be tricky-but you can put the wire mesh on a tube of caulk and push the mesh in over the tube. put in motor oil in the cup to the fill line and reinstall the cup. the reason it is important is that a blocked air cleaner acts like a choke and will drastically change the air fuel ratio.
next it might be a good time to determine if the gas is good or bad, if it has a bunch of sediment. clean fuel system as needed and replace the filter screens of clean them. they do have a cheaper aftermarket carb for sale on this website that goes for around 140 last time I looked--I have one and it works well. Or you can get hold of a good rebuilder-GB(MT) posts here and is knowledgable--I like the cheapie carb as it is a good spare to have - course its been on my N for a year now--haven't got around to the rebuild yet.
 
Outstanding!

On to the next project......

In addition to doing everything on the breather elmersooner suggested, post back & let us know how the carb is doing. Plenty of folks here can help you w/ adjusting it....if it needs it. If it's running ok & will idle below 500, don't screw w/ it!
50 Tips
 
thanks for the info. i always take care of the air cleaner and oil in my tractor. it is definately not clogged and oil is the appropriate weight. i would think that with an updraft carb. there really couldn't be that big of improvement...but i could be wrong. ty
 
I just got back from town. Started the tractor right up. NICE RUNNING!

So, I go to pull the blade against some heavy half melted snow and ice. Well, this is the load test. SHE PULLED LIKE A MULE WITH NO CUTTING OUT! I cannot be happier.

Regarding the carb, I believe that under a heavy load, you turn the main jet screw IN until it pops a little. Then you back it out while under load...until the pop goes away. The idle air is adjusted on a warm engine also. Turn it in until it rumbles a little bit and then back it out until it purrs. If this is wrong...let me know.

I do have an issue with the ticking sound above the manifold...between the middle cyclinders. I am pretty sure the tappet needs adjustment. It's only in the one spot and since the rebuild nothing has been adjusted. Anyone care to start the information flow? Do I need that special wrench they show in the book? What should the valve clearance be? I seem to remember reading .015". Is this a hard job? Probably should wait until summer.

Bruce, (and others), I cannot say enough how much I appreciate your help. Thank you very much.
 
You're welcome. Glad to help.

" If this is wrong...let me know."

It is. But the tractor starts & runs. I'd leave it be.

But, if you really want to fool w/ it........

Make sure the tractor is at operating temp; that usually takes 10 – 15 minutes at idle depending on ambient temp.

Both Ford and Marvel/Schebler (assuming you have a M/S carb ) say to set both the side-pointing idlemix and the down-pointing mainjet to 1-turn as a starting point. I set the down-pointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turns and don't fool w/ it until the final step.

Then adjust the side-pointing idlemix for fastest idle; not the smoothest idle. Next, adjust the behind the carb idle-speed set-screw for very slow 400-rpms idle. Do that idlemix adjust for maximum idle at least 3-times. Make sure that you turn the screws slowly, like 1/8 of a turn at a time & wait a second or two for the engine to catch up. Take your time!

Do it like this:

1. Adjust idle mix jet until RPM increases

2. Adjust idle-mix set screw until the engine nearly stops (as slow as you can get it unless you have a tach that tells you 400 rpm)

Repeat steps 1 - 3 three times.

Remember the side-pointing idlemix is out for lean, in for rich.

If you do not have any problems inside the carb, it is easy to get the idle down to 350 - 400 rpms.

Your last step is to go back to the main jet. Remember, in for lean, out for rich. If you end up turning it OUT more than ½ turn for max power (remember, you already had it 1 ½ turns out) then stop right there because you have a dirty carb or a fuel problem.

Re the tapping sound.....

Put a pint or so of MMO in the gas tank the next time you plan to work it hard.

If that doesn't help, remove the valve covers & spray everything down w/ MMO & start wire brushing everything.

And if that doesn't work........post back.
50 Tips
 
Bruce,
This engine has very little time on it so I doubt that it is gunked up at all inside. I do remember the ticking sound soon after I received the tractor back from the shop. Is there no adjustment for the lifter/valve?
 
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