Thoughts on link belts

Steve in VA

Well-known Member
The V belt broke on my sawmill. To replace it requires removing the drive wheel which introduces the alignment problem on reassembly. So, I was considering a link belt. The belt is 6 ft 6 in. I've never used a link so I'm curious to hear from those who have.
TIA
 
The sheaves are roughly 14 in diameter and don't turn very rapidly although I can't give an rpm.

I've seen link belt used on shop tools such as table saws and the mill certainly doesn't run that fast.
 
Have you priced link type belts? The length you are needing will be expensive. I have used them as a fan belt on tractors without a problem, they are directional for higher speeds
 
You don't say the type of mill you have,or if you have a clutch,and if this is the saw drive belt.IF this is a circular saw,and you have a clutch,when you throw the clutch out the saw will be a flywheel and put spinning forces on the belt from the opposite direction.I've seen this on a lot of shook mill equipment.I've seen them whip violently and self destruct.Now,if you have a bandsaw mill,and no clutch,I have no idea how it would behave.
 
I used this on a brake press belt once. I did not use perforated belt, just drilled holes in a new belt. It lasted indefinitely.

But that was a very easy load, basically all it had to do was keep a flywheel spinning.

Not sure what kind of shock or heavy load you have.
Belt Splice
 
I had mice eat both belts on my made in china drill press and I got link belts from HF. They are working fine .
 
Is this set up so that the band is actually running on the back of the drive belt? If so you may have problems because of the small amount of contact area and also trouble getting the blade to run true
 
I have them on most of my wood working tools. No problems. The good is they don't get a set after sitting in an unheated shop and run smoothly when first started. I don't know of a horse power limit rating. I think I would try it.
 
I have only used a link belt on a 10 table saw, old Craftsman with cast-iron top. I was amazed at how smoothly it made the saw run. The saw actually passed the nickel test with the new belt. I can't say how a longer belt will work for you.
 
I used a link-belt on my Pettibone for the alternator and water pump. Works fine but I have had to remove some links over time. Either stretching or settling into the pulleys.
 
I've posted a thread on this once so this is the short version. I have a 14" Rigid band saw that had a lot of vibration in it.

I put a linked belt on it and it ran perfectly smooth and allowed me to cut .019" slabs off of the length of a 4" X 4" hunk of myrtle with no variance from end to end. Didn't need the slabs, just testing the saw.

This post was edited by Caryc on 09/06/2022 at 08:27 am.
 
Motion industries sells them. Good to use on old tractors for fan belts where you have to remove a lot of stuff just to change belt. For example, on a CASE DC you have to drain radiator, take off hoses , tip a cast iron grill and radiator forward, and, and,just to change the belt! Easier to use link belt..
 

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