Threw in the towel

monsterpt

Member
Thanks for everyone's help trying to get my '52 8N running. Finally threw in the towel and took it to a retired tractor service guy my friend uses. $185 later and she runs like a top. Rebuilt the Genny, adjusted the governor and carberator. Now I have 50-60 psi oil pressure, charging at 15-20 amps and the quadrant lets me get all the rpms I should have. Not bad for two days work after I spent months of tinkering. Thought about upgrading but now that I know good a good mechanic (cheap) is available, I'll stick with what I have. Would like to get live hydraulics though. Anyone know if Zane is still building a kit?

Thanks again everyone.
 
worried somewhat about the "charging 15 - 20 amps".
I've got an alternator, you've got the genny, but normally if my battery is happy, it's pulling only 3 - 4 amps after the first couple minutes, only 15-20 when first started.
And a couple years ago I had a battery that was dieing and gradually it started pulling amps until the battery completely died.
 
(quoted from post at 12:09:58 03/01/14) worried somewhat about the "charging 15 - 20 amps".
I've got an alternator, you've got the genny, but normally if my battery is happy, it's pulling only 3 - 4 amps after the first couple minutes, only 15-20 when first started.
And a couple years ago I had a battery that was dieing and gradually it started pulling amps until the battery completely died.


Just went though that with my 1206 IH, 2 6 volts in series. Went from almost no charge at the beginning of winter to 20-30 amps all day. I knew all connections were clean tight and bright and was blaming the hard starting on that 361 cube diesel and the harsh winter. One evening I was thinking about when I realized that I'd run through 20 gallons of kerosene in the torpedo heater. For me that's a lot. It's dawned on me that I've owned the tractor about 4 1/2 years and the batteries came with the tractor so I really had no idea of how old they were. Next morning the load tester confirmed what I thought. One batter was bad. So 2 new batteries and the tractor starts at -8F without being plugged in.

Rick
 
Your correct. It was just at start up. As it warmed up, I am down to a respectable 5 amp charging set up. Thanks for the heads up and concern.
 
Sounds like after years of other folks "fixin" on the tractor, I was left with a governor and carb that were way outta whack and when I took the gov apart and rebuilt it, nothing worked.
 
50-60 psi oil pressure

that's suspect...

relief should be WAY open before then.

a brand new tight engine and new oil pump with cold 40w oil can get you 60 at startup and throottle.. but should drop from there..

if you are seeing consistant 50-60 on an N.. I'd verify that gauge and check what weight oil the mehanic put in.

I've seen engines pumped up with gear oil to sell with 'good' psi..e tc..
 
I think you were wise to have it done.
Some things I don't do for myself either though with a lot of studying and practice I probably could - doing my taxes, dental work, haircuts, fixing my Chevy and playing golf just to mention a few.
This board is all about helping others learn to keep their tractors running. But sometimes it is just better to bite the bullet and have it done for you.
Life's too short to try to become an expert at everything. And it's too short to have to deal with an agravating old tractor sometimes.
Work a little overtime or sell off something you don't really need on Craigslist to get the dough if you're a little short.
Pay the man to fix it and spend your time in the seat mowing or plowing or some such.
You'll get more done in the long run and be happier too.
 
(quoted from post at 17:27:15 03/01/14) 50-60 psi oil pressure

that's suspect...

relief should be WAY open before then.

a brand new tight engine and new oil pump with cold 40w oil can get you 60 at startup and throottle.. but should drop from there..

if you are seeing consistant 50-60 on an N.. I'd verify that gauge and check what weight oil the mehanic put in.

I've seen engines pumped up with gear oil to sell with 'good' psi..e tc..

What's a good oil pressure for a warmed up "N" engine running Rotella 15W-40?
 
(quoted from post at 00:43:30 03/02/14)
(quoted from post at 17:27:15 03/01/14) 50-60 psi oil pressure

that's suspect...

relief should be WAY open before then.

a brand new tight engine and new oil pump with cold 40w oil can get you 60 at startup and throottle.. but should drop from there..

if you are seeing consistant 50-60 on an N.. I'd verify that gauge and check what weight oil the mehanic put in.

I've seen engines pumped up with gear oil to sell with 'good' psi..e tc..

What's a good oil pressure for a warmed up "N" engine running Rotella 15W-40?
Define "warmed up".
After 30 minutes of idling or 3 hours of plowing red clay?
Too bad they don't all have temp gauges on them to compare.

My 2N starts out at about 40 psi and after 4 hours of pushing
snow is still running about 25 psi. I consider that great.
It has 15W-40 in it, though I may change it to 10W-30 since
I mostly use it in winter.
BTW, it carried about the same pressure with straight 30 weight.

Many of them have been said to run for years at 10 psi hot.
 
I really have no idea if Zane is still building kits. If he can't help you out then you could try The Old Hokie. He's making some very nice looking pieces for live hydraulics.
 
(quoted from post at 23:27:15 03/01/14) 50-60 psi oil pressure that's suspect... relief should be WAY open before then.

My 8N shows 50+ on start up (new guage) and when warm runs in the 20 - 25 range on 10W-30.
 
Hobo I finally sent that reconditioned ECU back to
the company that sells them.

After a wait of about three weeks got a message
that the ECU was way out of whack. This after I've
spend many dollars pinning the tail on he donkey
and having fits etc. They are sending me another
one. Hope it works!

I did finally make a banjo bolt that I could use
to test the fuel pressure and it is 40 PSI like
the book says. Was about ready to strike a match
to it!

Hope this makes it go.

I did borry a used ECU from a friend and it would
crank and run but not accellerate. I did drive it
to the store and gas it up but had to creep in
lower gear. Press the pedal and it would die. That
is when I was pretty sure the reconditioned ECU
had have been bad.

Zane
 
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