Throttle geometry

TJ64

Member
Location
Michigan
I'm looking for the correct measurements for my throttle controls. I have a 1951 8n. I can only get the quadrant to move about half way. At that point the governor lever hits the end of its travel. The carb is wide open before that. Carb rod is 7", that is the correct rod, the other linkage is 22+/- at its shortest configuration. The quadrant is physically stopped at half way. I have adjusted the linkages per IT manual (not running). I'm just looking for answers about how to get full range out of the quadrant. I will address the rest of my hot mess as I go. I have a new proofmeter and cable on its way as well as a few other minor parts. ( also dealing with an abortion of a 12v conversion that I'm cleaning up) SO, What is the correct length for the long rod, could this be the problem? Or is there somewhere else I should look for the shortened throw issue?
 
Hi TJ64, welcome aboard!
Your lever that clamps to the notch at the bottom of the throttle control rod, should align with the gov compensating spring, when at the lowest idle position on the quadrant, like this image in the FO-4 shop manual.
5898.jpg

If this position is good, the long link should not be so long its bending. The straight 7" link measures 7 1/4" when connected on both ends, and not having its ends pulled away from the rod itself.
If it measures over 7 1/4" its springs are extending, taking away carb response.
Long rod length reflects that dynamic.
Screenshot_20260223_134045_Brave.jpg

THIS is too close to the battery box at slowest idle, and needs to point along the white line
 
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The rod sold here lists length at 23 3/8"

Yes, when both ends are adjusted out. Fully compressed or rather screwed IN they are 22". I have decided the rods are correct at this point, Thank You :) I looked through the Steiner parts book that arrived this afternoon and decided it had to be correct. I was wondering if it was perhaps the 9n linkage that doesn't adjust but rather bends for adjustment.
 
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Hi TJ64, welcome aboard!
Your lever that clamps to the notch at the bottom of the throttle control rod, should align with the gov compensating spring, when at the lowest idle position on the quadrant, like this image in the FO-4 shop manual.
View attachment 145816
If this position is good, the long link should not be so long its bending. The straight 7" link measures 7 1/4" when connected on both ends, and not having its ends pulled away from the rod itself.
If it measures over 7 1/4" its springs are extending, taking away carb response.
Long rod length reflects that dynamic.
View attachment 145818
THIS is too close to the battery box at slowest idle, and needs to point along the white line
Mine is about that same distance on this /opposite side of your white line. I appears there is about the same amount of threads showing behind the lock nut as well. So I can shorten it a bit more. It also looks like my spring is interfering with the movement of that lever. ( my tab hasn't gotten here yet to hook the spring to, so its connected to the battery box.
I haven't been on here in a long time! Thank you for the response , Soaked! BTW, I will double check all the measurements and move my spring tomorrow when I install the new proofmeter and cable. I may even pull the governor and shim that sloppy arm up while I'm at it. Hoping it will be better weather.
 
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If your lever assy isn't pointing like the white line is, then loosen the clamp nut, and gently twist the lever so it IS on the white line, with lowest rpm on the quadrant. If you want to take the lever off to re-bend, the clamp bolt must be pulled out all the way, FIRST.
 
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If your lever assy isn't pointing like the white line is, then loosen the clamp nut, and gently twist the lever so it IS on the white line, with lowest rpm on the quadrant. If you want to take the lever off to re-bend, the clamp bolt must be pulled out all the way, FIRST.
THAT is exactly what I wanted to here! I have been looking at that lever and the clamp bolt and thinking...why can't I just loosen this bolt and twist it a little bit! You're the best! I don't plan on needing to bend the lever, I saw that spring. I've seen that look in a springs eye before, took me an hour to find it and another hour to get it back in the pistol.
 
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Here is another view, white dots are lowest idle, then full throttle for that lever assy. The member who took the pic, circled in blue where the long rod was rubbing on the block.😀
 

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Beautiful day today...weather wise. I took the governor off to measure my stack and to put a shim on the lever....don't need to. I need a new governor that has ALL the parts. When I took it off I had the gear, lower race, and the 4-hole cross that holds the steel balls. That's it! No upper race, no thrust washer, no shims, snap ring, thrust bearing, fork base. Just the gear , lower race, and the part that holds the steel balls. Now I'm concerned that they went into the engine somehow. It doesn't look like there is room for that bigger stuff to get past the gear. That said, I did get the quadrant right and the linkages too....before I took it apart :/
 
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Hello TJ64, welcome to YT! Not sure if you realized this but this forum is named “Tool Talk” even though the description of the forum says
“includes discussions on restoration, service and maintenance procedures.” the majority of the focus here is actual “Tools” Yes, you did get an answer here but… It just so happens that in its Manufactures section YT has a forum just for Ford N tractors here is a direct link to it Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Forum If there is another question you want to ask here about your Ford in the future I would recommend you place it there. You also chose the “Question” tab to start your thread I would suggest that you just use the default discussion tab. That question feature never gets used here as it is intended to be. Lastly if you happen to be viewing the YT forum on a phone the whole layout is a bit more obscure. If you click the ASAP/YT logo at the top with the red tractor silhouette that will take you to the main forum list where you can scroll down to the Manufacturers section where the N Forum is located. Hope this helps!
 
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