Timing mark on the flywheel ?

[dan shu]

Just bought a 8N, previous owner said had not ran for 6 months ( I think maybe longer ) He put in a new points and I have apark there, but he said he fuused with the timing mark and has it on 5*...what should it be ? Thanks as usual.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.

Now check your work (and the dynamic timing) w/ a light.

If it won't idle below 500 rpm (400 is better) don't bother w/ a light.

If it idles ok, make 3 marks w/ chalk or white paint on the flywheel:

4*
10*
17*

Start the engine.

At idle, the light should flash & the marker should line up exactly at 4* if you did the static timing correctly.

If not, loosen the distributor & turn it until the marks line up. It should take very little adjustment.

Once you've got that done, increase the engine speed to 1200 rpms. The light should flash & the marker should line up w/ the 10* mark. Then, increase the rpms to 2000 & look for the marker to align w/ the 17* mark.

Close counts on the advanced timing. A degree or 2 either way is ok. But, no movement or 5* or more off means you have an advance weight problem. You don't adjust the distributor to fix that.
75 Tips

 

[LisaK]

Timing on a side mount is 4 degrees before tdc.

 

[R Geiger]

Just remember, there are two sets of timing marks. 180 degrees apart. When doing the check like Bruce says, make real sure you are on compression stroke on number one or you will get real confused in a hurry! Don't ask how I know that!!

 

[Ken(Ark)]

(quoted from post at 15:45:22 12/30/13)
Just remember, there are two sets of timing marks. 180 degrees apart. When doing the check like Bruce says, make real sure you are on compression stroke on number one or you will get real confused in a hurry! Don't ask how I know that!!

So if there are two sets of timing marks 180* apart and this is a four stroke four cylinder with a crank with journals 180* apart , what would it matter which cylinder you are are ?

Just curious as I have never worked on an 8n with timing marks . In two revolutions ( four stoke ) when a cylinder fires it would be on a timing mark since it fires once every 180 degrees .

 

[R Geiger]

I am not really sure. I think I heard that it was so that you could use number 4 also. My manuals do not address the issue at all. someone here will know more!

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 11:49:08 12/31/13)

(quoted from post at 15:45:22 12/30/13)
Just remember, there are two sets of timing marks. 180 degrees apart. When doing the check like Bruce says, make real sure you are on compression stroke on number one or you will get real confused in a hurry! Don't ask how I know that!!

So if there are two sets of timing marks 180* apart and this is a four stroke four cylinder with a crank with journals 180* apart , what would it matter which cylinder you are are ?

Just curious as I have never worked on an 8n with timing marks . In two revolutions ( four stoke ) when a cylinder fires it would be on a timing mark since it fires once every 180 degrees .

epends on what you are wanting to do. If installing a side mount distributor and you are lining up rotor to #1 cylinder, then one mark is correct & the other is wrong. If using a timing light, which is probably what you have in mind, then any cylinder is good.

 

[Ken(Ark)]

(quoted from post at 12:42:42 12/31/13)

(quoted from post at 11:49:08 12/31/13)

(quoted from post at 15:45:22 12/30/13)
Just remember, there are two sets of timing marks. 180 degrees apart. When doing the check like Bruce says, make real sure you are on compression stroke on number one or you will get real confused in a hurry! Don't ask how I know that!!

So if there are two sets of timing marks 180* apart and this is a four stroke four cylinder with a crank with journals 180* apart , what would it matter which cylinder you are are ?

Just curious as I have never worked on an 8n with timing marks . In two revolutions ( four stoke ) when a cylinder fires it would be on a timing mark since it fires once every 180 degrees .

epends on what you are wanting to do. If installing a side mount distributor and you are lining up rotor to #1 cylinder, then one mark is correct & the other is wrong. If using a timing light, which is probably what you have in mind, then any cylinder is good.

Yep , you are correct . I have worked with a lot of front mounts but never a side mount . Stabbing a distributor never came to mind .

 

[cbradio]

So is that 4 degrees before 0 or after for use with a light?

 

[Hobo,NC]

It wound'n as long as you used either #1 are #4.... If you wanted to get technical you could average the timing tween 1 and 2...

If it called for 5 deg BTDC

#1 could be 6 deg
#4 could be 4 deg

Total tween the 2 cyl is 10 your averaged would be 5 you would be good to go...