Timing w/o a light

[swhockett]

I recently completed a valve replacement and new timing gear on my side mount 8n. I have low idle in the 400-450 range and it runs well in low gear. When I go to higher gears I find that by slightly pulling the choke out it runs more smoothly w/o backfiring. I don't have a timing light but read that you can use an analog VOM set to resistance. (as an aside, I get high oil pressure readings above 65 until engine warms then it stays at 35)

 

[Bruce (VA)]

You can't check dynamic timing w/o a light. But you can set static timing w/ a meter.

Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Loosen the distributor lock bolt. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.
75 Tips

 

[swhockett]

(quoted from post at 15:15:16 04/01/18) You can't check dynamic timing w/o a light. But you can set static timing w/ a meter.

Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Loosen the distributor lock bolt. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.
75 Tips

Thank you, Bruce.

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 21:36:28 04/01/18) I recently completed a valve replacement and new timing gear on my side mount 8n. I have low idle in the 400-450 range and it runs well in low gear. When I go to higher gears I find that by slightly pulling the choke out it runs more smoothly w/o backfiring. I don't have a timing light but read that you can use an analog VOM set to resistance. (as an aside, I get high oil pressure readings above 65 until engine warms then it stays at 35)

Your problem sounds more like a carburetor problem than a timing issue. Does it pop out of the carburetor while trying to raise the rpms? If it does the carburetor is set too lean.

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 14:36:28 04/01/18) I recently completed a valve replacement and new timing gear on my side mount 8n. I have low idle in the 400-450 range and it runs well in low gear. When I go to higher gears I find that by slightly pulling the choke out it runs more smoothly w/o backfiring. I don't have a timing light but read that you can use an analog VOM set to resistance. (as an aside, I get high oil pressure readings above 65 until engine warms then it stays at 35)

Static timing is a good start, but if you want to have it run right, get a timing light. Some auto parts stores will rent them out. lot of them on ebay right now.

 

[Jerry/MT]

You don"t need any instruments to get a good static timing. Just get #1 piston on the compression stroke and then move the crank shaft with a ratchet socket so the timing mark lines up. Install the distributor so the rotor is aimed at the #1 plug terminal in the rotor cap and tighten the distributor hold down so that you can still rotate the distributor. Put a paper clip or a bent wire I the spark plug boot, hold it near a good ground, and turn on the ignition key. Now rotate the distributor back and forth until you hear the spark snap. At that point you are statically timed. You may have to do it several times to feel comfortable that you have it at the correct position and when you do, hold the distributor at that position and tighten it down. After you start the engine check it with a timing light and also check that the centrifugal advance is operating by reving the engine and watching the timing advance.

 

[Dean]

The symptoms you describe are not related to ignition timing.

That said, I've posted the procedures to properly set ignition timing statically using nothing more than a spare spark plug and a 1/2X9/16 open end wrench. If you follow the procedures static timing will be spot on.

Search the archives for procedures.

Dean

 

[swhockett]

(quoted from post at 06:56:25 04/02/18)

(quoted from post at 21:36:28 04/01/18) I recently completed a valve replacement and new timing gear on my side mount 8n. I have low idle in the 400-450 range and it runs well in low gear. When I go to higher gears I find that by slightly pulling the choke out it runs more smoothly w/o backfiring. I don't have a timing light but read that you can use an analog VOM set to resistance. (as an aside, I get high oil pressure readings above 65 until engine warms then it stays at 35)

Your problem sounds more like a carburetor problem than a timing issue. Does it pop out of the carburetor while trying to raise the rpms? If it does the carburetor is set too lean.

No. It is more of what I would call a typical backfire that comes from the exhaust. I have not tampered with the main jet though much from bench settings so it could be lean. It just seems like everything I read always says to check the timing before fiddling too much with the carb.