just did it!! Worked great thank you!!!Well that is the last straw!I would mark the pulley flange with a white marker using two stripes with a gap between where the pointer is indexed. (clean the flange so the marker stays put). then set the timing as discussed. over the next months of operation, check the position again by (disconnecting the plug wires and turning the engine past #1 firing to see if it slips. If not its good to stay that way. Someone probably didn't put the key in the snout, and just put the pulley on it. SO the next time you need to remove the front end to do drastic repair you can fix it with a new key """ if ever""". Jim
My birthday today your success is my present! Jimjust did it!! Worked great thank you!!!
Janicholson, "drill out the remaining for threads of some common size" does this mean after removing the ceramic and outer and inner electrodes to drill and tap a hole for a common bolt thread?To find the real TDC with science, Take an old sparkplug and crack out the ceramic. drill out the remaining for threads of some common size Screw a bolt in the new threads that sticks out far enough for the piston to hit it. Turn the engine by hand until it stops against the bolt. mark the pointer position, then turn it opposite until it stops. Mark the pointer position. Now measure 1/2 that distance and that is for real TDC. Jim
how are you retiming the mag. Is the rotor pointing to #1 tower on tdc making sure the piston is on compression you can move the rotor gears to make sure and stop worrying about marks on the pulley because the mag fires at tdc the when engine is running it goes to 30 something advanceI got 1947 H and I’m trying to retime the magneto but I’m having a problem with the time pin lining up with the marks on the crank pulley when the #1 piston is at TDC. Has anyone ever had that issue? Thanks!View attachment 5626
Why would you want to put the rotor gears out of time?how are you retiming the mag. Is the rotor pointing to #1 tower on tdc making sure the piston is on compression you can move the rotor gears to make sure and stop worrying about marks on the pulley because the mag fires at tdc the when engine is running it goes to 30 something advance
That is likely because that distance is the rotation needed to initiate the impulse coupler's spring windup, then tripping to release it at TDC. Allowing the mag to be timed (pretty well) without the other "winding" procedures found in the descriptions already posted. JimWhy does the text say to go 1-1/2 inches past the DC pointer and the table says “trips at TDC”?
If you want the coupling to snap at TDC, you have to start winding the spring BEFORE the notch, not after. The instructions say go past the notch is what I’m not getting.That is likely because that distance is the rotation needed to initiate the impulse coupler's spring windup, then tripping to release it at TDC. Allowing the mag to be timed (pretty well) without the other "winding" procedures found in the descriptions already posted. Jim
I do not know that answer, but the wording may just be wrong!! JimIf you want the coupling to snap at TDC, you have to start winding the spring BEFORE the notch, not after. The instructions say go past the notch is what I’m not getting.
The John Deere L and M tractors are marked with “F” and “T” marks on the flywheel, with F coming first in direction of rotation. I think this is a little hazardous, for the novice might set the mag to snap on the F mark which would likely result in an injury.
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