Tire boot patch questions

[chas036]

I have a 1 1/2 inch cut on 15.5x38 tire in the bottom of the tread. I bought a boot patch which is 3x4. I have never done this before and I am looking for some advice. I have tire still on the rim and but the old tube is out.

The directions say to clean the tire with a rubber buffer cleaner. Where do I get this?

It then says to buff the surface. What do I use to buff the surface with? Something I can attach to my drill?

Then it says to apply repair cement. Is this the same as I would use to repair a tube, or is it something different?

Then they says to lay the patch and stitch it down. What does this mean?

Also, my valve stem is on the inside of the rim. Is there a secret for putting in the tube with the valve stem on the inside? In order to get access to the valve stem hole, you have to move tire all the way to the inside which leaves you no room to insert your hand to push the valve stem in place. Is it better to remove the tire completely and then reverse the rim so the hole is on the outside?

 

[johndeeregreg]

we just buff the spot where the patch or boot is going to be with (for lack of technical name) a grinding stone in the drill kinda like this one

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Forney-Industries-Inc-60053-Mounted-Grinding-Wheel-2-x-0.-5-inch/50401312?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=14&adid=22222222227038084988&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=85574297930&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=126578757872&veh=sem

but ours has tapered corners which works good for us. make sure you get an area bigger than the patch. take a vac and suck out the rubber filings, don't touch the area with hands after buffing it if possible.

rubber cement is the same as you would use to patch a tube. we usually light it on fire while we are peeling the backing off the patch or boot. that gets the rubber warmed up which lets it bond better and gets the glue tacky quicker. if the fire isn't out when we have the patch ready we blow it out and stick the patch on right away.

once patch is lade on we take the stitcher like this one,

http://www.ruralking.com/slime-tire-buffer-and-stitcher-tool-1025a.html

and go over the patch criss cross and every which way working from center out making sure to get all around the edge.

right or wrong that's how we do it and seem to have good luck

get some tire soap if you can find it and lube up the beads when working tire back on rim and before airing tire up to seat beads easier, stuff we use comes in a little bag that you mix with a gallon of water we get it at fleet farm along with most our other tire repair parts.

if tractor wont have duals on it there is no reason the stem needs to be inside, if you want to do the extra work to turn rim around have at it. other wise should be able to roll stem hole to bottom and get room to work on it with it on inside, just make sure it is blocked up good.

 

[chas036]

Thanks for the great explanation. This helps a lot. When you say "blocked up" at the end when putting in the tube, what do you mean?

 

[Lon in NE]

Since he's talking about reaching under the rim, I'm guessing that he's telling you to use wood blocks to hold up the tractor so it can't fall and make "Stumpy" your new nickname!

 

[Joe Way]

On the valve stem, a valve fishing tool will be a BIG help. Google "Milton Industries S-447". Any parts store should have them.

 

[Lee B]

rubber buffer cleaner is any decent solvent, I currently use spray can brake cleaner.

johndeeregreg has outlined the basics pretty good, except for the fire part and the backwards way to do it which is on every can of patch cement too for some strange reason. Buff first, clean the buffed area with buffing cleaner first with a scraper (sharp edge of a knife for example) to remove snot faster and then with clean rags until the rag comes away clean. Several applications of buffing cleaner will need to be applied. Let dry. Apply only self-vulcanizing cement to the area and also let dry -- No fire -- If you need heat use a standard light bulb shop light and place it quite close the cemented area and warm it up that way, the fire burns away the good stuff and leaves carbon soot in it's place.

This is a chemical reaction between the self-vulcanizing portion of the cement and self-vulcanizing compounds in the boot or tire patch itself, please let them work without modifying the chemistry with fire if you want it to stick and stay stuck for a good long time. The fire bug burn method has resulted in non-flammable cements which are worse than a plague of locusts if you ask me as the non-flammable version of cement is a waste of money. It no longer works and we no longer can have fires either, hope you fire bugs are happy about ruining my life like this.


https://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a228600.jpg"


This is a proper stitcher, please only use one like it meant expressly for stitching tire patches. The sharp edges on the wheel are very necessary to stitch the patch into the rubber intimately so the chemicals can vulcanize the two together properly, window screen repair rollers just won't suffice even though they have a roller wheel too.

<img src="http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a228601.jpg"


This is a buffer on steroids, we used to use these with one wheel instead of the dual back to back arrangement shown here, but yes this can be attached to a drill. The standard equipment is an air die grinder for ease of use in getting it inside a tire though. This is not rocket surgery though, a stone works just as good and so do a lot of things including a small angle grinder if you are very careful with it. You only want the slick surface removed and a flat surface for the patch to stick on.

<img src="http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a228602.jpg"


This may be the secret you need in order to fish the valve stem of the tube thru the valve stem hole in the rim. The cap on the right end of the cable screws onto the tube's valve stem where the cap would go, but first you push that part of the tool thru the hole in the rim, then screw the tool onto the valve stem of the tube and then mount the bead and pull the stem out at that point.

Being you are working on a tractor tube though, the tool you need to do this same thing with will have to be a different creature and I don't have that one so readily available for you, sorry.

Patchboy DOT com will have real tire tools and supplies.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKwBSzikVrY" target="_newEric O fixes a tire</a>

 

[hd6gtom]

chas the boot you bought is not big enough. You need at least an 8x8, a 10x12 would be even better yet. When you are buffing be very careful if that is a tube type tire you will go thru the inner liner real quick. If you do get into the tire cords they will have to be covered with something, if you don't they may chew up your new tube, What ever you do DO NOT light the glue on fire. some people do it an get away with it. It leaves ash on the glue reducing the strength and holding power of the glue. Sorry if I sound pushy, I owned a farm tire shop 22+ years and spent a lot of time fixing other peoples messes. No need to reverse the rim, get the chain or cable puller as shown above. When you remount the tire make sure the stem does not get caught between the tire and rim. GOOD LUCK Have a great day

 

[johndeeregreg]

yep that is what i meant by blocked up.

 

[504]

When you are done, and before you put the tube back in, throw a handful of body-baby powder in the tire.This will soak up the extra glue around the
boot and keep the tube from sticking the next time it needs to come apart.