TO-30 Electrical help

[ERIC PELTIER]

I am running a 12 volt system with the exception of the starter. I have been told it is ok to use a 6 volt starter as long as you dont crank it very long which isnt an issue as this starts and runs really good with the exception of the exhaust manifold leaking and a cooling issue which I am about to deal with. However the alternator is starting to go and the wiring is not in the greatest shape. So I plan on redoing everything. I was wondering if people have a preference of Alternator VS Generator and Points VS Electronic Ignition systems. I have never dealt with changing points before so the electronic ignition sounds good to me but how about reliability. I appreciate others input as far their experiances dealing with these electrical issues.

 

[Richard L]

Eric please go back to yesterdays post on this page and look through what every one has said I think that will answer your question. Did you find out what you have for sure? Did you get a serial number from tractor and engine?Richard

 

[ERIC PELTIER]

I posted a essage about that earlier. It is a 30, Z129 on the block and air filter intake on the dash. However the serial says 12738 which makes it a 20. I can only guess and say the serial # plate was changed at an earlier point because it may have been stolen at one point. Car thieves change vin #'s all the time and that is all I can guess on. I amassuming that you mean about the oil pan as far as checking yesterdays post. I had one answer to that that said they should bolt up but was hoping someone else actually had to do that before so I knew for sure. I might be able to return the new pan, however if all I have to do is weld the cover then I will do that. Just hoping someone had to do it before.

 

[Richard L]

Iknow Bob (Aust) likes the Petronix ignition he even put it on his Jag XKE. What I have read in the archives any one who changed over to Electronic Ign. really like it. I also think they are preferring the alternator over genny. Richard

 

[Bob (Aust)]

This is strictly my personal choise, works for me and is my cheapest option:

[list:94c8bce56b]Install Pertronix Ignition and possibly a Pertronix HV coil. (less than $100)
Have the generator overhauled. (around $60)[/list:u:94c8bce56b]

That is a lot less than the cost of an alternator, then new points, plugs etc every year or so - not to mention, frustration with a hard to start tractor!!

If your tractor is running well and electrical system charges, there is nothing at all wrong with a generator!!! And if your tractor is not correctly tuned and the electrical system functioning and efficient, an alternator is not going to cure anything!!!

And yes, I also have Pertronix ignition in my XKE/E Type Jaguar - and love it!! A vast improvement over the dubious Joseph Lucas electrical components!!!

My 2 cents worth!!! :lol:

Bob in Oz

 

[phil(va)]

Keep the alternator. It probably can be repaired. If it has the internal voltage regulator, that can be replaced. If a diode is bad, those can be replaced. It is not a particularly hard job for the shade tree mechanic like us, but if you don't have anyone close by to show you, maybe it would be better to take it to a good automotive electrical shop and let them do it. Not that expensive. When you run new wires, pay close attention to how the wires are hooked up now, as being 12 volts with alternator, your tractor is different from the standard original wiring diagram. Points are easy to replace, but I hear Petronix is a good investment, your choice.

 

[ERIC PELTIER]

The alternator is starting to go like I said. Sometimes it charges and sometimes it doesnt. I have a new battery and sometimes it will go a week without needing charged and sometimes it will only last a day or two before I need to charge it. I had an alternator on one of my trucks start to go like that.

 

[gshadel]

I'm always a proponent for doing what is least expensive to maintain a reliable tractor. If you already have an alternator, then just rebuild/repair/replace it and keep your 12V system. There is absolutely nothing wrong with keeping your original point/condenser system unless you have a worn-out distributor. You can spend the $$$ on an electronic ignition if you want, but you can replace a life-time of points/condenser for thatr same expense.
Might want to take your battery to a auto shop to load test it to make sure the battery is okay. Also make sure your ground lug and connections are clean and shiny.

George

 

[Jerry/MT]

Eric are you sure there isn"t another number after the 8 in the serial number? Some times they get a partial stamp and it"s pretty faint. Everything you have told us points to a TO-30. SOme times ther eis a year code on the rear axle. Someone maybe able to tell where to find it and how to read it. If it"s within the time frame of the TO-30"s that would nail it down.
Good luck.

 

[ERIC PELTIER]

I looked and there wasnt. I am assuming it is a TO-30. The serial # plate is not riveted on, it does however have larger screws (buggered up) holding it on making me think it was changed for some reason. I can only speculate as to why someone would have changed the serial number plate. This has the 129 engine, the dash has the air cleaner intake on it which makes it a TO-30. The only thing that threw me off was the serial number, it also threw off the used tractor dealer I bought it from. I looked for casting numbers on the side of the transmission like someone told me to look for, I was unable to locate anything I thought could possibly be a date stamp. Basically I found H F which of course is Harry Ferguson and a few letters and numbers which I am assuming is a part number.