TO-30 Starting Issues

Dave (OH)

New User
I am working on a TO-30 which has had a Wagner loader on it for decades. The loader makes proper maintenance difficult, and since we did not put a lot of hours on it we have settle for starting this tractor for many years by pulling it. (Pull start, clean out the barn, put it away for 6 months, repeat.) I decided to fix this and have removed the loader, replaced all of the wiring, had the generator 'gone through', replaced the regulator, points, condenser, plugs, wires and installed a new battery (all 6V pos. ground). The engine will crank but still does not start, so today we hooked it to the trucked, put it in third, and started it (pulled less than 10 feet). It ran beautifully but I do not want to have to do this anymore. I have read about the Pertronix "Flame Throwers" and wonder if this might be the answer. Any ideas?
 
If it won't start now it probably won't start with a petronix. Look in the archives about how to tune this engine properly. Once it is tuned so it will start and you have an extra $100 and you want a petronix then it will be your choice. Many of these tractors are still running on the original 6 volt system as they were from the factory. Richard
 
Before you throw parts at it, find out what is wrong. Check the spark, the timing, the firing orfer, etc. Check the fuel delivery and the carb mixture settings. Get it started, warm it up and check the compression.
 
I agree with Jerry and Richard. Since it runs well after it starts, I'm thinking ignition and timing is probably close enough. Here is a test to try. While cranking it, have the air intake off the carb and spray some quick start fluid into the carb intake. If it fires and starts you probably have a carb problem, not a problem that replacing ignition parts will fix. (That's not always true, but I said probably.) You also could have a compression problem in this situation. I'm assuming the front pump from the loader is no longer connected?? If it is connected, it could drag down the starter revolutions.
 
Starting fluid does not seem to help (I have tried it sparingly). A little more info: I did not have good compression on two cylinders when I started this project and have had the valves and head ground (compression is good now). The carb has been rebuilt because the venturi was disintigrating. Everything that I have replaced had issues, much of the wiring was original and insulation was falling off, the regulator was shot (this tractor had probably been hooked up neg. ground at one time), and the battery was gone. That said, I did get the tractor to start tonight after adjusting the timing. It took lots of cranking though, and I don't think it ran as smooth as it did after pull starting. I allowed it to warm up, shut it off and could not get it to go again. The front pump is off. I do however have an issue with the rear. After years of being in the down possition (used as a hitch) the lift arms were raised and are now stuck up. I have cleaned the rear end out using Jeff's procedure and the linkage inside appears to be functional. While attempting to start I have left the PTO off and lift control lever in the down position. Any more suggestions?
 
[i:da6a1f025d]"...and installed a new battery (all 6V pos. ground)."[/i:da6a1f025d]

If the engine is correctly tuned and it has spark and fuel, I wonder if the new battery is fully charged or not faulty? Or whether the ignition system is aqequately grounded? Is the earth strap from battery to tractor attached at the starter motor, or still on the back of the dash board as in the early tractors?

With the engine being cranked over, measure the voltage between the negative (ignition switch) side of the coil and the engine block. My guess you aren't getting enough "juice" to provide a half decent spark for starting. Common fault with 6 volt systems, particularly with a tired battery or faulty earth.

The Pertronix ignitor and high voltage coil will help significantly when starting. But it is not a cure all for a bad battery and/or bad earth.
 
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