TO-30

[traviss224]

I have a Ferguson to-30. I am trying to set the timing on it. When the timing marks are lined up at TDC, I install the distributor with #1 at the 10 o'clock position. The metal part of the button is facing #1. It won't run here. I rotate it 180 degrees. It runs, but rough. Any idea?

 

[Mad Farmer]

I have a Ferguson to-30. I am trying to set the timing on it. When the timing marks are lined up at TDC, I install the distributor with #1 at the 10 o'clock position. The metal part of the button is facing #1. It won't run here. I rotate it 180 degrees. It runs, but rough. Any idea?

You were not on compression stroke for #1. Distributor rotor turns 1/2 the speed as the crankshaft, hence out 180o on wrong crankshaft stroke. You can check for compression with the #1 plug removed and putting your finger over the plug hole. As you turn the fan you should feel compression as you approach TDC.

You can setup the distributor with any cap post as #1, as long as the rotor is pointing to that post on the top of the compression stroke for #1. The remaining posts need to be set up in the correct firing order (1, 3, 4, 2) CCW.

Static timing should be 6o BTDC, on the compression stroke. Points gapped at 0.022".

 

[Jim.ME]

I have a Ferguson to-30. I am trying to set the timing on it. When the timing marks are lined up at TDC, I install the distributor with #1 at the 10 o'clock position. The metal part of the button is facing #1. It won't run here. I rotate it 180 degrees. It runs, but rough. Any idea?

#1 and #4 are at TDC at the same time the marks line up. One of them will be TDC with the valves closed ready for firing. The other is at TDC with the valves "on the rock" meaning the exhaust stroke just finished and the intake stroke is starting. It would seem you have #4 ready to fire and #1 "on the rock", or one 360 degree rotation from the correct line up of the timing marks for #1. The distributor turns one revolution for every two revolutions of the crank.

 

[traviss224]

Thank you. I will pull it back apart tomorrow. How do I check the points gap? When it's on the flat side or when it goes to the high part? And do I check the gap against the shaft or what?

 

[Mad Farmer]

Thank you. I will pull it back apart tomorrow. How do I check the points gap? When it's on the flat side or when it goes to the high part? And do I check the gap against the shaft or what?

To set gap points need to be in good shape, flat contacts without pitting.

Use a feeler gauge when the rubbing block is on the apex of the cam. One screw holds the points in place, the other is for adjustment

 

[traviss224]

I went ahead and order new points and stuff. I will update later.


Recommendations on spark plugs?

 

[Mad Farmer]

For tune up parts don't buy cheap chi-com crap. Standard/Blue Streak is a good choice. Check rest of dist parts careful (points/cap/rotor/wires/wire insulators), I just got fooled by a bad cap. Make sure advance mech in dist is free, turn rotor it should move ~12 degrees then spring back.

You can carefully file old points smooth if not too worn/pitted, they will work a while. Be careful to clean the contacts well before and after setting gap (new points too). Can use a strip of magazine paper, draw though closed points. Helps to wet it with contact cleaner or alcohol first then use a dry strip.

Blue Streak/Standard: Point set DR2227P, Cap DR-405, rotor DR-158, condensor DR-60X

For plugs I use Autolite 386 , gap 0.025" (takes BIG 7/8" socket).

I find easiest way to set timing is static timing using an ohm meter. After you have points gapped proper turn motor to 6o BTDC on comp stroke #1 (or #4). Loosen dist hold down clamp and turn dist till points are closed. Hook up ohm meter to coil terminal that runs to dist/points wire and other wire to ground, should have continuity/0 ohms with points closed. Turn dist until meter just shows open circuit (points open), then tighten down dist. Can check this by turning motor using fan backwards well before top dead center, to close points, then slowly turning towards TDC and noting when meter shows open circuit.

You can also use a test light in same manner. small 6V or 12V light/socket (depends on system voltage) connected to 2 wires and two alligator clips. Clip onto same coil terminal and ground, turn on ign switch (power to points). Light will be off with points closed, on when they open.

We used to make up these test lights with the lamp connections that were used in old motorcycle speedometer/tachometer lamps. Can buy similar replacement lamp sockets and alligator clips at auto parts stores (e.g. GM side marker lamp sockets). Make sure you can get 6V lamps if 6V system. They come in handy to test circuits for crude voltage. Put in tractor tool box.

 

[Jim L WA]

Just a note to add. The last set of point I bought (Blue Streak) came with a .025 feeler gauge.

 

[traviss224]

I messed with it for a bit today. It will run ok for about 10 seconds then die as of its been cut off. I ordered new cap, button, coil etc yesterday from Steiners tractor. It should be here next week and I will report back

 

[traviss224]

I tested my coil tonight. Any way to see if it's 6 or 12v?

Here is what it tested. Center to neg or POS 11.63

+ To - was 01.3

Good or bad?

 

[olddavid]

I tested my coil tonight. Any way to see if it's 6 or 12v?

Here is what it tested. Center to neg or POS 11.63

+ To - was 01.3

Good or bad?

Looks about right for a 12 V coil.

 

[Jim L WA]

traviss224; what's the history on your to-30 trouble? Just wondering, because this shutting down after 10 seconds or so sounds more like a fuel starving problem to me. Usually, ignition problems are a no start, a miss or run for SEVERAL minutes before shutting down.

 

[Ericp351]

Nappa, others , can supply a ballast resister. 1 1/2- 2 ohm good place 2 start. Think 1979, + - Chrysler. Fun fact- most coils are stupid. They don't really know 6 from 10 from 12 volts. Just volts in , resistance, volts out. MANY millions of Detroit 300+ horsepower cars (12 V) at most started on 12 coil volts, then ran on 6-7 volts. Stand by for members to request you buy a special , high internal resistance, "needs no ballast resister" coil. They may even supply part #. No need to drink cool-aid! Post script- good luck, check floats if troubles persist, and rock-on. Post , post script- loose on a matchbook cover will get you running (points). 6 deg. = spec., and conservative. Remember- rub block wears quickly for first bit. Tune or re-tune accordingly if you like the smooth as a sewing machine operation. Small dab o grease helps.

 

[traviss224]

traviss224; what's the history on your to-30 trouble? Just wondering, because this shutting down after 10 seconds or so sounds more like a fuel starving problem to me. Usually, ignition problems are a no start, a miss or run for SEVERAL minutes before shutting down.

I bought it. It has been sitting in a garage for 10 years. I bought a new carb, empty the fuel tank and cleaned it out, new petcock, fuel line, filter, spark plugs. It ran ok before I removed the distributor to get the starter in and painted the tractor.

I set it to TDC on what I believe was the compression stroke. The distributor was found to be 180 out at that point. Now it's running super rough and cuts off. I was able to run it for about 5 minutes earlier at about mid throttle.

I set the 6 degrees with a test light to when it comes on.

 

[traviss224]

The spark is very light. It doesn't seem stronge.

 

[Ericp351]

The spark is very light. It doesn't seem stronge.

Quick tips---- If tractor sat- think oxidized points! I'd file and try first, then change as reqd. Very common-hope works! Tid bit: I like OEM style iron/steel core plug wires- assuming you ain't running a high $ sound system. Good Luck!

 

[Jim L WA]

It ran okay before you removed the distributor. Now you think it has a weak spark and runs like that too. Could the primary wire from the coil to the side of the distributor be the culprit? Also that terminal post that goes into the distributor has an insulator around it that maybe shot. If that all looks good you might even try putting the old spark plugs back in just for grins. Then of course, components like a condenser or coil can just fail at any time and have nothing to do with you removing the distributor, but not likely.
The next time you have to remove a distributor from this or any engine, make some marks on the distributor and engine and note where the rotor is pointing first. Then you can put it back in just like it was providing the engine wasn't turned over at all.
Good Luck and keep us up to date.

 

[Ericp351]

Hate to rub salt in the wound- but 1 change at a time always best. I'd check spark when it dies. Wire a plug that rests on the black and crank-ignition on. "In line" spark testers also cheap, not really needed. I re-read your last and sounds like a misadjusted Chinia carb, with, or without a jammed needle/ stuck float. Good luck- try to verify spark, and or time so ain't going in circles!

 

[traviss224]

Hate to rub salt in the wound- but 1 change at a time always best. I'd check spark when it dies. Wire a plug that rests on the black and crank-ignition on. "In line" spark testers also cheap, not really needed. I re-read your last and sounds like a misadjusted Chinia carb, with, or without a jammed needle/ stuck float. Good luck- try to verify spark, and or time so ain't going in circles!

I do feel as if its the carb... I am on the phone now trying to order one. Any recommendations?

 

[Ericp351]

These are very simple- Fix what you have when possible. If stuck with the "repo" only- take it apart and police inlet needle/ floats. Better-restore orig. Do not assume the 13 year old Chinia girl that put some repos toghter even pre set the jet OK.