TO-35 Axle Housing Bolts

[Tony C.]

About a month ago I asked on the MF forum about removing the studs that hold the rear axle housings to the center section.

Well I'm finally getting the studs out and I have to replace about 8 of them. It is an early TO35 and the studs are 7/16 inch X 1 5/8 inch long. My question is if there's something special about these studs that I must get them from AGCO. They want $18 for one stud (WOW!).
I have found a close replacement at auto parts store, a hair longer, maybe 1 3/4", shoulder area a little wider, etc. I would have to check if they are Grade 8 or whatever. Found another one at NAPA that was almost an exact match size wise, was Grade 5.

Were the originals super strong, like more than a Grade 8? I notice the originals have a little bevel on the inner end to help them seat. I think the later tractors went to 1/2 inch, so there must be a lot of stress on these guys.

Can I safely get by with the generic store studs?

 

[Mike Lucas]

I sure hope someone can answer this question. I"ve had problems with the axle housing bolts on my T0-35 for years and need to replace all of them.

 

[Tony C.]

Here's a link to 2 from Fastenal, not exact but close, Grade 8, $1.37 and $3.27 each: These are 7/16, does your tractor have 7/16 or 1/2". I believe a few tractors even had 7/16 on one end and 1/2" on the other!

Are you having trouble with the center section studs or the ones out at the wheel ends? Mine would still be fine, but my fault I let them get eaten away by exhaust gasses

Hope someone can help us, else I will make a few calls to dealers with good mechanics and see what they say.
Fastenal

 

[Tony C.]

Sorry, try these:
Fastenal 1

Fastenal 2

 

[John(UK)]

No you don't have to get them from Massey-Ferguson, but when you do you can be assured that they are correct and will do what the are supposed to do. There can be a big load on these bolts when certain types of equipment is fitted to the tractor and that is why they use the specification that they use. You should use the bolts that conform as closely as possible to the original ones and then you can be sure that everything will be OK and safe to operate and the tractor will not break into two parts. Make sure about the length, if they are too long they will bottom out in the holes and they will not be tight.Use some oil on the threads as well before you screw them into the castings and then they will not pick-up on the thread inside. If you can clean the threads in the castings as well before you fit the bolts using a thread tap, that would be a help, but clean out the holes to get any grit out of the hole before you fit the bolt and do not squirt oil into them or it will act as a hydraulic cylinder and crack the casting.
John(UK)[email protected]

 

[Dieseltech]

Just a thought, buy what you need to replace, but put them at topside area of housing after moving some original studs to bottom area where stress is higher. Even grade 5 would be strong enough at top where stress is less. I wonder if studs from NAPA may be exhaust manifold studs, should be fine if size and grade are OK.

 

[Tony C.]

Stress is less at top, but I noticed the bolts are spaced closer at the bottom and further apart at the top. Engineers probably designed it so the stress per stud equals out.