TO30 governor problem

[relsem]

Working on the wife's 52 TO30. The tractor revs through the roof with the slightest pull (just a few degrees). Pulled the carb. Cleaned throughly in an ultra sonic cleaner. Blew out all passages, verified float height was correct. Put it back on tractor and adjusted the throttle and governor linkage. Air screw out 3/4 main between 1 3/4- 2 turns out Starts and idles much better but still over revs at the slightest throttle increase. Sprayed starting fluid around the carb and intake manifold looking for a possible leak. The engine stayed on idle and did not surge I removed the throttle rod between the carb and governor. The governor arm does not move when it throttles up. So tomorrow morning the front cover is coming off. Will it be obvious that it needs replaced? What should I be looking for?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Bob

 

[Tom H.]

If you have either the IT repair manual or the Ferguson manual, follow the Governor setup process. Read it a couple of times to make sense of it then go do it.

 

[Dan S (NY)]

If the governor has disintegrated behind the front cover it should be pretty obvious once you get in there. Let us know what you find.

 

[Steve@Advance]

Yes it will be obvious what's wrong.

Usually it will be the ball cage has broken.

Or it can be the roll pin sheared where the lever attaches to the shaft in the side of the cover.

Bad thing about the cage breaking, pieces of it will be in the pan and can make their way into the oil pump. Also examine the timing gears for chipped teeth and embedded pieces between the teeth. The pan needs to come off and cleaned, and the pick up screen removed and cleaned, the oil pump opened up and inspected, especially the pin that drives the gear.

 

[relsem]

OK spent some time trying to diagnose the problem. Went through the governor adjustment process according to the manual and other posts I read on this site several times. No change. Engine raced governor didn't operate. Pulled the timing cover and replaced the governor. Old governor looked ok but one thing I noticed is that the tab on the cover was in the 2:00 position when i pulled the cover.

I installed the new governor. Was careful to make sure tab on the cover of the new governor was in the 8:00 position, put everything back together and adjusted the linkage again. Started the tractor and had the same symptom. I verified the linkage was not binding anywhere.

I started the tractor and removed the throttle yoke from the governor arm. Revved the engine and the governor arm did not move one bit. I tried again with my fingers on it and felt no resistance. Its like i didn't even put it back in. Took it for a short ride to see if it would be different under a bit of a load..Engine raced, governor didn't operate.

I did notice wear on the internal arm and some slop in the arm
(see attached pic). Do you guys think the wear and the slop could be my problem? Would turning the dampening needle in a few turns help? I tried it 1 turn in from it hitting the spring reset everything and that didn't help. I'm not sure if turning it in more would posibley damage anything

 

[fusion1]

Hope this works You Tube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31M3s0iOLQk

 

[Mark Bennett]

Did you find the problem? I have the same issue.

 

[Mark Bennett]

Btw, did your new gasket fit? Mine didn't

 

[PuttPutt45]

also curious if either of you resolved this issue? i’m about at the same point as to pull the cover just had engine rebuilt but engine as described just wants to rev to all beat hell if i’d let it. after trying linkage adjustments, governor screw, carb adjustment always having the same result…

 

[Mark Bennett]

I couldn't use new cover gasket due. I contacted the vendor.

As far as governor, I disconnected my throttle rod from the governor lever, started the engine while I held the throttle rod with my hand. I would move the throttle rod with my hand while watching the governor lever action. Based on this test, my governor works but my throttle rod appeared to be too short to allow the governor to slow the rpms. I ended up purchasing a 1/4-28 coupling nut and all thread so I could extend the throttle rod even though it is the factory length. I probably still don't have everything adjusted perfectly but it is working much better.

 

[Mark Bennett]

The governor itself really doesn't move that much. It's a balancing game between the spring and centrifugal force of spinning the governor

 

[Mark Bennett]

I should have said governor lever in above posts

 

[Mark Bennett]

Coupling nut !! to extend rod to carb. Dang phone

 

[Mark Bennett]

One thing I noticed between old governor and new one is the old one had a raised area in the center where the lever contacts while the new one is flat. In my opinion, this affects the linkage adjustment and required length. If your tractor over revs, then with the engine turned off, throttle the tractor up and disconnect the governor lever from the carb rod this will allow you to feel the amount of spring force the governor would have to over come to slow your rpms. Make sense?

 

[PuttPutt45]

yeah! i just finished messing with it and did observe that when i extend that fork all the way out it actually did want to push my carb closed just a lot different then what’s described through manuals and other procedures, i can see what you mean about extending the carb rod linkage and feeling what i have for governor movement tension/spring… my thought in my situation is maybe the internal governor linkage should’ve been bent/adjusted when i swapped from a weighted governor to the ball style? just a thought but am not sure if any adjustments was made or should’ve been made haven’t been able to get the engine rebuilder on the phone for a few weeks. i’ll try what you did to get it operating properly with a coupler and some 1/4-28 rod and go from there! i’ll check back in over the weekend let ya know what happens!

Appreciate the advice and help!

 

[Mark Bennett]

Glad to help. Not sure what you mean '"extend fork out to push my carb closed".
When you increase the throttle, the governor spring/lever (connected to the carb throttle rod) actually pulls the carb throttle rod forward which opens the carb (to increase rpms). Internally the only governor adjustment is the dampening needle. If you adjust this in, your governor action would be decreased. I don't think you want that. With the governor spring disconnected from the governor lever and the carb throttle rod disconnected from the governor lever, the governor lever should move freely but I do not know the actual travel distance. I have never measured the travel.

Btw, I bought my 1/4-28 coupling nut and all thread from Grainger

 

[Mark Bennett]

Good luck

 

[PuttPutt45]

this is where i have to adjust to with my linkage carb to governor to get any governor action otherwise it revs to the moon like i mentioned i’ve been messing with the linkage, carb etc… but have the governor adjustment and carb back to proper settings, but this was the first time i got the governor to do something with haven’t adjusted it this far out before seems like a random spot to me. that’s why i was thinking internally something got bent or isn’t to “spec” maybe the tabs on the governor linkage? im going to try adjusting this a bit more then hook the throttle back up i did make a coupler to put on if needed but i think i’m gonna be okay without it.

 

[Mark Bennett]

If you have this fully assembled, your are missing some linkage. You need all the vertical linkage and spring.

 

[PuttPutt45]

oh i know i was throttling it manually for initial adjustments, as mentioned that will be hooked up now that i’ve got this where i believe it needs to be to actually govern.