TO30 Remote Cylinder- I am so confused!!

OK, so despite being a Ford Guy, I am falling in love with my new TO-30. Took it out with the "Bush Hog" and I found the torque, power, and governor responsiveness to be outstanding compared to my early Fords. It starts right up, runs great, etc. So far all I have done is preventive maint. new plugs, wires, all new wiring, rotor, dist cap, oil & filter, etc. Pulled the oil pan and no issues there. As I am 6'2", I replaced the Knoeler seat with an original spring and pan seat, my knees are appreciative. Here is my problem. I want to install a remote cylinder as my top link, the way I have on my 850 Ford. In my parts manual "TO-30.T0-20, TE-20, TE-A-20," there is a diagram and list of parts for a "Hydraulic Valve Remote Cylinder". The parts list is clearly shown as for a TO-30. Also, the TO-30 owners manual page 11 describes "Using External Hydraulic Cylinder, and 2 External Hydraulic Outlets are incorporated at the front of the tractor center housing cover, which Utilize tractor hydraulic system with external cylinders'" However, I can find no references to this unit on-line, at any parts suppliers, or in any discussion group. Can anyone suggest where I might go to find out about the history of these, who might have the unit and parts for sale, and if there are any aftermarket or home built units that might be available. It sounds like they are made in "unobtainium" but I want to try anyway. Thanks again to all for your help, Larry.
Sorry but have no idea what this means. I am already familiar with the literature on converting N series ford tractors, which requires drilling and blockoffs, use of high pressure test port, etc. However, the remote valve units that are shown in the Ferguson TO-30 parts manual, are nothing like the parts described for the N series conversion. Also, Ford literature makes no reference to two access ports in the center cover the way the Ferguson manual does. Again, does anyone have info on the valve parts shown in the Ferguson manual for this tractor? Thanks, Larry.
As you noted, the valve you need is very difficult to find. I sold one real cheap about 2 years ago, not having any idea what I had.

Also - You can't use the cylinder and the 3 point hitch at the same time. So I'd recommend against spending time on this.
Hi Larry, first dont be hard on yourself about having Fords. The 9N and 2N tractors had the Ferguson system, three point hitch with draft
control, as the result of the handshake agreement between Harry Ferguson and Henry Ford. So, the addition of a hydraulic port is
something that can be done, the downside is the lift arms need to be chained down to use the port. If you were going to mount a front
hydraulic plow it would make sense, but you will never have the three point lift arms and the auxiliary hydraulic available at the same time.

Do a search for 677054 Ferguson and one pops up in Camden Ohio for $125.00.
Might be what you are looking for.
Thanks to all. As I think Tom indicated, and after yet more research on the various boards, technical articles, etc. etc., I can find no way to do it without chaining down the arms. Since I want to use it for easy adjustment of a hydraulic top link when I am installing and using a rear implement, I will have to do it another, and more expensive way. I cant and don't want to use a pto driven hydraulic pump, and although I do use front mounted pumps on other tractors that have an FEL, I think I am going to go another way. I like what I can see on the web for Windy Ridge Farms under hood mounted hydraulic pump, driven by a belt from the crank pulley. It is actually similar to the set up for adding power steering on a hundred series Ford. It is a bit overkill for just a hydraulic top link, and it is not cheap, but it is very versatile, enabling me to have multiple hydraulic ports for other accessories, like a wood splitter, etc. and would not interfere with standard TO-30 hood opening system. I can still mount the valves under the front of the seat if I build a mounting bracket. All I need to get is a double groove pulley (or build one). The other alternative is to buy an aftermarket power steering unit that also uses the crank pully for power, but which have an attached reservoir, (like the early Eaton pumps). Less hydraulic power, but enough to run a top link with not that much plumbing needed. Anyway, will get to this as my late Fall project. Thanks to all, Larry.
P.S. Does anyone have a double groove pulley for a TO-30 Continental engine???

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