Torque specs for JD A

4fun

New User
I am looking for a link, or somewhere I could print off the torque specs for mains, rods, and head bolts or studs. Also curious what grade of fasteners did they use back in 1937.
 
The head bolts are 125 ft/lbs. The rods are 90 ft/lbs plus whatever it takes to put the cotter pin in the nut castellation.

JD used very soft bolts in every location on the early tractors. Head studs got better later in production.
 
Thanks for the info, I know I seen it on here before but didn't print it off at the time because I wasn't even close to that far along in the project yet.
 
B&D.. You may know it, but the torque specs for letter series tractors were only published in the FSB's, which are not available at Deere.

Mother Deere cant help in this situation.
 
Buickandqueer doesn"t know, thats why his inadequacy only allows him to be a total jerk to people trying to find out information. He thinks its his duty to police the forums and tell people they are stupid, in order for him to feel better. He likes to brag about people that are/were dedicated to helping people on this site, and thier timeless efforts and kindness, yet he has never learned that value himself. He should call a 1-800 self help hotline and learn how to be kind to others.

These forums are for people trying to learn and gather information. Buickandqueer if you do not like it, quit reading. I wonder if Duane Larson or Clooney ever told you to call a 1-800 number when you asked them for help....O wait, I forgot you know everything you don"t need help. Go ahead and blab about this I know you will, you always have to have the last say...I wonder why if you are so good, why gathering of the green and two-cylinder expos have not had you set up to put on classes and teach others...heck it would only take 2 seconds...it would be how to dial a 1-800 number
 
Interested in the comment on torque specs related to the rod castle nuts. I was just scratching my head on that. Torqued the nuts to 90 - can"t get the the cotter through any of them. I was advised by an old dairy farmer to use wire (which I can snake through the cotter holes). I was also considering backing off the nuts just enough to get the cotter pins in. Your comment to add torque wasn"t one I considered. Any other thoughts on that?
 
This instruction has been around since engines! Some things you simply accept - others you challenge! This isn't one to challenge - there's just no point.

As for the old dairy farmer - you can follow advice from whomever you choose, but being an "old dairy farmer" isn't the badge of engine mastery. Wire is what most farmers had at hand, and with "hay down", you do what you have to get it put up! Doing nothing or waiting around for a serviceman to come with a cotter key wasn't much of an option. (PatB)
 
Never mind Pat. Just checked your site. Got it; know what to do now. Thanks. I didn't check it before because I knew the torque values. Always good to do more homework.
 
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