torque specs

V8S10

Member
hey guys wondering if theres a torque spec on the camshaft gear nut and the idler gear on the 281 i building for my M ... what should i torque the head to? its a brand new reproduction lp head and im running high compresion pistons like what you would buy from tisco,lp manifold from stiener,higher octane fuel,electronic ignition, and a brand new 450 cam. also what should i torque the rods and mains to? ive got an old IT shop manual that says 105 for the mains and 55-60 for the rods and 110-115 for the head. what are you guys opinions? thanks for any help!
 
Did you install a new set of those nice ARP head studs? If so, torque head to 120. Re-torque at least twice after warm up.

If you didn't get the new studs, stop torquing at 100, hope the old buggers don't break, and hope the gasket don't leak.

Torque to the high end of the specs for the mains and rods.
 
all the head studs cam out very nicely because i took them out to have the top of the block plained and none of the studs are rusty and they all look brandnew yet
 
I agree with north puller,don't reuse old stock studs they stretch when torqued org....now you may break a few re torqueing them....or they stretch more when motor gets warm or may even break later on during season and you will lose power and start having problems.....water leaking and so on.... go with arp studs well worth the money ask any one here they will agree with us on this one..or buy all new stock studs and replace....but still not as good as arp's
Kelly
perfect person to ask on this is a friend of mine mike manley....he had same issues as this....
 
I agree with north puller,don't reuse old stock studs they stretch when torqued org....now you may break a few re torqueing them....or they stretch more when motor gets warm or may even break later on during season and you will lose power and start having problems.....water leaking and so on.... go with arp studs well worth the money ask any one here they will agree with us on this one..or buy all new stock studs and replace....but still not as good as arp's
Kelly
perfect person to ask on this is a friend of mine mike manley....he had same issues as this....
 
Its your choice. I consider new ones cheap insurance. Remember, the old ones are just that - old. Also, you're gonna put a lot more pressure on them than you ever did before.

If they were $500, I'd say take a chance, but for $150 isn't it worth knowing that they arn't going to be a problem?

Either way, don't forget thread sealant. Some of those studs thread into a coolant cavity.
 
Replace them. We have messed with this stuff enough to know that looks are deceiving. You don't know how they were torqued or how many times they've been used. Replace them .
 
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